So i am going to get that NOS beginer kit that was suggested to me. But i have a couple of questions. When using it i have been told to start holding the button above 3k and hold til shift release for gear change and repeat. Lets say i do this in a 1/4th mile track, how many times can i do it before i need to refil my NOS bottle. How much is a nos refil cost, is there a gage i can buy so that i know when i need a refil so that i dont run out in the middle of a race? That is just bottle pressure right? And anyother insites that you might want to share with me being that i am a newbie, and yes i know that it isnt safe.
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Ender2664:
and yes i know that it isnt safe.<hr></blockquote>
Its safe...if you are careful. And change your sig...its Y87 on Y86. A nitrous pressure gauge will help you determine approximately when it is gonna be empty...you can buy one of those propane gauges that stick to the side of the bottle that tell you the level of the liquid inside. And yes...its a liquid when it is compressed that much.<a href=\"http://www.onid.orst.edu/~waltejam/\" target=\"_blank\">98 Bright Red Camaro</a><br />Too many mods to list....check my website
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About how many runs you think i can get down the 1/4 of off on bottle?2002 M5 camaro- VTR CAI, custom cat-back exhaust, battery compacitor, pullie, lowering springs, 32mm sway bar, cross-drilled slotted rotars. 1-10\" L7 in cubby.
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From what i gathered off of this form, since i am never going to go over a 100 shot and i am a newbie, i should go with a dry shoot right?2002 M5 camaro- VTR CAI, custom cat-back exhaust, battery compacitor, pullie, lowering springs, 32mm sway bar, cross-drilled slotted rotars. 1-10\" L7 in cubby.
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i really dont like dry kits, mainly because of the idea of messing with the MAF signals. Dry kits bypass the PCM signals from the MAF and just open the injectors up all the way while spraying the nitrous.
wet kits mix the nitrous and fuel together.
I like the nitrous, because they are easier to use, and in my opinion, much safer.
although i met someone who was running a flowmaster muffler, B&M electric shift improver, and the NOS dry kit, on an auto 196 RS 3800 and they ran a 13.9. Not too bad, im just one of those people who always goes with the safest route for the car. And i feel that is a wet kit, mainly from a brand like NX or TNT, not NOS.
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Ian:
i really dont like dry kits, mainly because of the idea of messing with the MAF signals. Dry kits bypass the PCM signals from the MAF and just open the injectors up all the way while spraying the nitrous.<hr></blockquote>
A dry kit does two things. It sprays upstream of the maf sensor, so the maf sensor sees the added oxygen, and tells the pcm to add more fuel. And it kicks up the fuel pressure, so more fuel flows out of the injector.
It doesn't bypass the maf sensor, and it doesn't open the injectors all the way. The pcm is still in control, and it continues to vary the pulse width (you can see this on an autotap log).
13.2 here on a dry kit, stock engine, stock converter....\'98 A4 Camaro v6->v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by John_D.:
A dry kit does two things. It sprays upstream of the maf sensor, so the maf sensor sees the added oxygen, and tells the pcm to add more fuel. And it kicks up the fuel pressure, so more fuel flows out of the injector.
It doesn't bypass the maf sensor, and it doesn't open the injectors all the way. The pcm is still in control, and it continues to vary the pulse width (you can see this on an autotap log).
13.2 here on a dry kit, stock engine, stock converter....<hr></blockquote>
hey, waddya know, i was fed some bull$hit somewhere down the line, and told wrong info. and all ive researched is wet kits, so my fault.
you are right, and i found really good info here:
http://www.go-fast.org/z28/new_to_nitrous.html
good luck with that, but my pick is still for wet.
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That's alright... We're here to learn from each other. (and to stop any b.s. we see starting to float around) [img]smile.gif[/img]
That's a good link you posted.
I think dry is probably easiest for a newbie. It's good for 85-100 shot or so.
But, it's a real pain to tune a dry kit beyond a 100-120 shot. Wet allows a lot more flexibility in tuning, and doesn't require so many tricks like bigger injectors, maft, etc....\'98 A4 Camaro v6->v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>
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Well can someone answer my other 2 questions. How many 1/4ths can i run on one bottle and is the way i described how i should use the nitrous. But i should buy the NOS dry kit being that i am a newbie right? Or should i just but the wet kit?2002 M5 camaro- VTR CAI, custom cat-back exhaust, battery compacitor, pullie, lowering springs, 32mm sway bar, cross-drilled slotted rotars. 1-10\" L7 in cubby.
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How many runs? Depends on the size of the shot. And the size of the bottle. You can use all but the last 2 lbs of the bottle. So a 10lb bottle, you have about 8 lbs you can use. A 15lb bottle, you have about 13 lbs you can use.
Seems like I was burning about 1lb per run, on a 100 shot. On the 150 shot, more like 1.5lbs each pass. So with a 10lb bottle, 8 passes with a 100 shot. Only 5 or 6 passes with a 150 shot.
The cost is anywhere from $3 to $5 a pound. Some places charge for 10lbs even if they were only able to put 8lbs in it... So figure between $30- $50 per refill.
On a manual, I'd get a window switch. It turns the nitrous on when you hit the desired rpms (i.e. 3000). And a wot switch, so when you let off the gas between gear changes, it automatically cuts off. Instead of trying to turn it on and off yourself.
I liked the dry kit for starting out. But now that I've run it for a while, I'd like to have direct port. I'm cautious about wet kits because of the risk of a backfire from fuel buildup in the intake. (the intake was not designed to flow fuel, only air....) A lot of people run the wet kits with no problem though.\'98 A4 Camaro v6->v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>
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