So how do you launch with your nitrous?

[staticpike]

So here's my deal...

I just came back from three months of counter narcotics ops down south and I've ordered quite a few parts for my car that are sitting back home waiting to be installed (for the purpose of this post though, all I'm concerned with are the 1 wet & 1 dry N20 kits, both from NOS)

This will be my first experience with the giggle gas both installing & racing. I'm not worried about the install at all and have studied it pretty precariously the past 3-4 months. I'm even hoping to imitate John_D's hidden bottle setup.

What I want to know, is what is the best way to launch with this stuff? (I'm driving an automatic btw) Do I just set it up to dump all of it upon activation of the WOT (and of course, the master arm) switch, or do I get a push button, or should I invest in the NOS programable progressive controller? Right now, the hope is to do a dual stage setup (half wet half dry) and maybe soon, if I like it, go over to the NOSzle system and give it a run (planning on calling NOS tomorrow and seeing what parts I'd need to save on the $12oo price tag). Progressive controller sounds good, but this nitrous newbie needs the experience of the board for guidance. I'm just not sure what ratios to key when... (or even a rough idea since I know tuning will be neccessary). (PS, I have all the safety stuff)

Otherwise, I get my car back from TN in a month an can't wait to get my parts installed! (gears, fuel pump, full exhaust with cutout, shocks, brakes, Soundproofing & speakers!!!)

Thanks!

PS - where is everyone, this whole board seems dead, but this section is completely gone?

[John_D.]

Whether you hit it all at once, or run a 2-stage or progressive, depends on what size shots you end up running. I think it's possible to run a 150 shot from 3000 rpms and up.

The thing to consider, is that the engine is taking in about twice as much air at 6000 rpms as it is at 3000 rpms. A single stage nitrous will flow as much nitrous at 3000 as it does at 6000. But the nitrous will effectively be twice as much at 3000. So with a single stage, you're limited to what the engine can withstand at 3000 rpms.

Theoretically, if the engine can handle 150 at 3000, then it could handle 300 at 6000. But you don't spend enough time at 6000 to warrant 300.

Once you get out of first gear, on a wot run, you will spend all of your time between about 4300 and 5900. So you could set up a second stage at 4300 or so, to bring in about 50% more nitrous.

For example, maybe a 120 dry for stage 1, followed by a 75 wet for stage 2. The 120 dry is pushing it on the stock injectors. The wet would take over from there.

I'd think you'd have to tune the dry shot first, then enable the wet shot and tune it on top of the dry shot.

As far as how to engage the second shot, you could do it manually once you are at the top of 1st gear, or tie it to a window switch.

The ideal setup would be a direct port on a progressive controller, then you could always feed the engine the most nitrous it could take throughout the rpm band, and not have to worry about tuning issues with a dry shot, or backfires from a wet shot...


About this forum, there is box toward the top right, it probably says to show topics only within the last 10 days. Change it to 30 days or more, and you'll see the other topics. They're all still there. [img]smile.gif[/img]

[12secondv6]

I ran a 120 dry nos system on a street tire and saw a 13.4 out of my bird.

I stalled to 1700-1800, launched N/A, let the nose come completely up, then down, then I sprayed the 120 dry shot and went 13.4


Later on I upgraded to a kenne bell boost a pump, nitto drag radials and added skinnies and went 12.8 with the same set up.

Practice makes perfect

[staticpike]

So for my dual stage setup, I'm going to use the harlan window switch to control both stages. Stage one (dry) will key off at 3K and got till 6K. Stage 2 (wet)(when activated, I'll have separate ARM for it...) will key off if stage 1 is active and then at 4300 to 6K. I figured it was going to be something like that, I just wanted to hear it from you guys.

John_D, those shots seem kind of high for stock trim. 120 to boot and then a second 75 on top of it is a total of 195. From what I've read in the past, thats not entirely encouraged for our engines (or has the concensus chagned in the past 3 months?). Even James had problems with the 150 recently from what I read...

If I do the NOSzle thing, then I'll go with the programmable progressive. I'm still waiting on a reply e-mail from NOS to see what parts I need that I don't already have and how much it's going to cost.

Anyway, thanks for your help John_D & James!

-Pike

[1998silverbird]

If you plan on sprayin out of the hole then I wouldnt worry about how much to spay.. You need to be able to hook up off the launch.. My car has alot of suspension upgrades like tq arm and lca's, and No matter what part of 1st gear I am in it Just spins when I hit the switch.. I am only sprayin a 90 shot.. If I hit it a 3000 rpm in second gear it still just spins.. This is on the street.. at the track I spun all the way through 1st gear 1 run so after that I launched on motor at 3000rpms on street tires, and didnt spray until I hit 2nd gear.. Bottom of the line you need to be able to hook up in order to spray out of the hole..

[John_D.]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by staticpike:
John_D, those shots seem kind of high for stock trim. 120 to boot and then a second 75 on top of it is a total of 195. From what I've read in the past, thats not entirely encouraged for our engines (or has the concensus chagned in the past 3 months?). Even James had problems with the 150 recently from what I read...<hr></blockquote>

That may be high. I tossed it out there as an example, rather than a recommendation. And I would say the upper limit for a dry shot would be 120. 100 might be better. Anybody's guess on the second stage. [img]smile.gif[/img]

I don't think anybody on here has a 2-stage setup. So the numbers tossed around here are the truth for a single-stage setup. The max for a single-stage is lower than the max for a 2-stage. You're not overstressing the engine at the lower rpms with the 2-stage, because you're running a smaller first stage. But I don't know what that good upper number is...

A major plus of using a dry shot as the first stage (which you may already know from your research) is the softer initial hit, which makes coming out of the hole more manageable.

[1998silverbird]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by John_D.:

A major plus of using a dry shot as the first stage (which you may already know from your research) is the softer initial hit, which makes coming out of the hole more manageable.<hr></blockquote>

Very good point.. Didnt even think of that.. You could launch with a 75 dry shot and wait till you hook then hit the 100 wet or dry shot..

[staticpike]

Hitting the dry first was the plan. The dual stage effect isn't hard, I bought one complete kit, and then a second partial one (only 1 bottle needed, just dual it out in the engine bay). I also had theorized that I could probably juice more with the second stage but hadn't seen anything in writing anywhere. Both kits are sitting at home in TN, I'm just waiting to go home on Christmas Leave and pick them (as well as my car). I'll need to order a second Harlan Switch while I'm at it until then I suppose. But once I've got my car back, I'll get those kits installed and get some numbers and stuff up so you guys can see what I'm doing and correct any of my mistakes.

Kinda nice to be the first one pioneering something on this board...

I'm thinking somewhere between a 75-100 opening dry shot (3000-6000) and then a 35-75 secondary wet shot (4300-6000). And then tune my MAFT+ to that...