I need someone to look at my schematic/wiring diagram

[staticpike]

I'm working on a box that will house all the relays & wiring for my dual stage nitrous kit that I've got. I've drawn up a basic electrical schematic that's easy enough to understand (if you know anything about electronics) and an associated wiring diagram to compliment it (since I just ordered all the stuff last night).

Would it be possible for someone to take a look at it and confirm that my wiring diagram and schematic are same-same and that my schematic does indeed work.

Special thanks to John_D for hosting this for me:
Dual Stage Electrical Kit/Wiring Schematic

Thanks to anyone that can help!

[ December 14, 2003: Message edited by: staticpike ]</p>

[John_D.]

I can put it on my webshots page.

[staticpike]

Thanks John_D, you've got mail! [img]graemlins/bowdown.gif[/img]

[John_D.]

You're welcome!

Here's the link:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...04819326YKCEIx

Couple of things I noticed so far...
- I think the labels for wet and dry are reversed.
- I don't know if it's ok to run the relays serially or not. May be ok, I'm not that familiar with it. Might be better to fan out the feed to them, so they are fed in parallel.
- The switch layout for the warmer doesn't look quite right. Looks like it's between the relay and the warmer, on the high amp wire.

[ December 15, 2003: Message edited by: John_D. ]</p>

[staticpike]

Originally by John_D
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr> Couple of things I noticed so far...
- I think the labels for wet and dry are reversed.
- I don't know if it's ok to run the relays serially or not. May be ok, I'm not that familiar with it. Might be better to fan out the feed to them, so they are fed in parallel.
- The switch layout for the warmer doesn't look quite right. Looks like it's between the relay and the warmer, on the high amp wire. <hr></blockquote>

The labels on the switches were reversed, thanks (Fixed!)

The Serial thing isn't a problem (since I'm not dropping alot of current across the relay's) but you did make me realize that the second solinoid in both the wet/dry sequence isn't going to work in this particular serial config because relay #1 (both sets) isn't getting a full connection until after the set #2 gets energized from the windows... back to the drawing board on that one... (it did work then I had to redesign for the second window switch and now it doesn't work again...)

The warmer is set up to turn on when either set is armed (wet/dry). It also has the manual overide switch so I can turn on the heater for staging lane and not leave the engine on.

But hey, thats the kind of feedback I needed, I'll reorganize that relay pattern now...(arrgh...)

[ December 15, 2003: Message edited by: staticpike ]</p>

[WickEdSix9838]

why are you using two window switches? one could work both setups couldnt it?

[ December 15, 2003: Message edited by: WickEdSix9838 ]</p>

[John_D.]

I believe he was thinking about it being a 2-stage system. For instance, first stage from 3000 and up, and the second stage from 4500 and up.

With an automatic, you could probably get by without the window switch on the first stage... I don't remember if that's what he's running though.

[staticpike]

I'm running 2 window switches with one for each stage. The idea is stage 1 will activate at the ~3K rpm mark (maybe a little lower since I am in an auto with stock TC) up to just before the rev limiter and stage 2 kicks in at ~4.5K up to the rev limiter. I've pretty much got all the parts (both N2O kits although I still might get a NOSzle to replace my wet, adapters, fittings and all the hardware needed to make the control box that is in the schematic) I'm just getting all my "ducks in a row" and finalizng the construction of the arming/trigger circuit.

[staticpike]

Anyone know how many amps a standard NOS solenoid pulls? I'm trying to figure out if I'm going to cook my FPSS or my MASTER arming switch... (I really don't want to add a 7th or 8th relay...)

[slow]

nos like 8-13 amps or so, the good noids, like nx and tnt draw in excess of 22-28 amps.

Ryan

[John_D.]

Here's the link to the latest diagram

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...04819326YKCEIx

[John_D.]

THE latest and greatest is now posted. It's pretty cool. :D

The switches light up and go out, as the stages engage and disengage.

[ December 15, 2003: Message edited by: John_D. ]</p>

[staticpike]

Where's the link? The other 2 still (previous posts) still point to earlier renditions.

I get back to my car the day after christmas. I've got all the parts assembled to do this I just need the car...

But please, if anyone see's any problems let me know!

Thanks again to John_D for posting them for me!

[John_D.]

ooops.... It does have a new url....

Here it is:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...04995584klnqkF

[slow]

question, why the relay between the master arm, and the wot switch?

and where are you getting +12 ign that is suitable to drive your solenoids?

also, why do you have the fpss between the +12 and the master arm? so with that, you will not be able to run the heater or opener with the car off.

also, why the second relay between the mater arm, and the bottle opener, and warmer, if your whole system is already on ign +12 already?

Ryan.