I need someone to look at my schematic/wiring diagram

[staticpike]

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question, why the relay between the master arm, and the wot switch?

I really don't have good reason for this one except for personal preference. I kinda wanted to isolate the basic circuit into parts and current needs therfore I isolated the priming circuit.

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and where are you getting +12 ign that is suitable to drive your solenoids?

I'm not! Thats a definite correction that I'm making and a rather large oversight on my part. Thanks for the heads up! (changes to +12V, it will never flip without any potential on the trigger relay which requires an open window, and active stage...)

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also, why do you have the fpss between the +12 and the master arm? so with that, you will not be able to run the heater or opener with the car off.

my original schematic had a manual switch connection to run the heater independant of everything. As it evolved, I dropped it and just went to an automatic with the master arm. The FPSS is key in my opinion. I'm a safety nut when it comes to running this stuff in my car and I wanted absolutely nothing to work if the FPSS isn't working. I consider this mandatory for my car.

Quote:
also, why the second relay between the mater arm, and the bottle opener, and warmer, if your whole system is already on ign +12 already?

Current isolation & regulation mostly. I wanted to minimize the number of significant current-drawing items running through low amperage switches as possible.


Thanks for the look over! If you notice anything else, please let me know [img]smile.gif[/img]

[slow]

depending on the fuel system of these cars, and i think they are vacuum references, with a properely set FPSS, at idle you will not have enough fuel pressure to activate the system, so you might want to move the heater and opener to before the fpss, or move the fpss between the master and the 2 stages (that is what i would do)

opener and heater, do not need to worry about fpss to work properely.

Ryan.

[staticpike]

Hmmm - aren't the FPSS's adjustable? (sorry, don't have mine in front of me at the moment, it's 2500 miles away... :( )

If not, what is the standard "activate" pressure of one? Our stock fuel system is, what approximately ~35lbs at idle? And what is the Fuel PSI on a walbro at idle (I have every intention of getting one of those too before I ever hit this kit for the first time)?

I'd really like to keep the FPSS where it's at now, but will move it if there is no other option...

[slow]

this you need to go to somebody who knows more about the fuel system for the v6 cars, as i don't know about them, as i have a ls1, and my car is 58 psi, static, so at idle, and wot, it "should" stay at 58#

with a vacuum referenced fuel system (what i think the 3.8 cars get) it will be like 35 at idle, and around 44 or so at wot. With the fpss setup properely, you want it to turn off the nitrous if you lose some fuel pressure (normally about 3# less than expected wot fuel pressure)

So if you set it for 40-41# (approx, get somebody with familiarity of your fuel system for better answers) you will not be able to run it at idle.

If you set it to be at 34#, then you can be running 10-# under expected fuel pressure, basically making the fpss worthless for detecting, and fixing a lean condition. (imho)

Ryan.

[John_D.]

At key-on, engine off, no vacuum present, mine runs up to 44-45 psi.

When idling or coasting (full vacuum), it holds right at 40-41 psi.

At wot, it will push about 48 psi. (must be a little hotter voltage getting to the pump when the engine is running).

[staticpike]

Is that on a stock pump or Walbro John_D?

[John_D.]

Stock pump.

I do have a Kenne Bell boost-a-pump installed, but the psi numbers I quoted are with it not energized.

When it comes on when spraying, and with the dial set to 30%, I hold 65-70 psi then.

If I turn the dial up to full 50%, it holds about 80 psi, but it runs too rich up there...

[12secondv6]

Argh, electrical stuff.... like cryptonite to me :(

[staticpike]

Hmmm, I guess I'll be experimenting here. The Walbro is on the "next to buy" list I keep.