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Some nitrous questions... and a little guidance...
you could probably run around 100 on stock fuel system without any problems but i wouldnt go over 85, and the only thing you'll have to figure out is where to put the N20 nozzle w/out drilling any holes, unless you put it in the IAT hole and left the sensor sitting out like you have before, and im positive you can run nitrous with the stock cat, many people have done it without problems...
Wouldn't bother me a bit with the intake... I cna just get a spare intake... or run something else and swap in the stock airbox with ease. [img]smile.gif[/img]
So as high as 85 shot, maybe a 100 shot(rarely)
on stock injectors, ignition, fuel lines and fuel pump.
Also air/fuel guage, what options do I have for that?
[ January 30, 2004: Message edited by: MustangEater8251 ]</p>
Don't buy and Air/Fuel Gauge, it's a complete waste of time and money. It's grossly inaccurate and only tells if the car is rich, lean, or stoich. It gives no number value. Get a wideband O2 kit, it's at least accurate.
As far as nitrous goes, I've sprayed my car on a dry shot with no jet quite a few times, but with proper fuel (104 unleaded). You can run a 100 shot with 93 octane all day long. If you want a really simple kit, just get an NOS single nozzle, 4ft braided line, 1 solenoid, 16ft braided line and a bottle. Insert the nozzle in the IAT location, and bam, nitrous kit in under 30 minutes.
Personally, I wouldn't run more than a 75 shot without an additional fuel pump. If I were you, I'd start looking at fueling upgrades to go along with the kit because once you start using nitrous, you're going to want more of it and you'll start increasing the jet sizes. The stock system might be good up to 100hp or it may not...that would be a big chance to take because every car is slightly different. As for the Air/Fuel ratio gauge...it is EXTREMELY helpful. I run an Autometer gauge in a single pod on the pillar. Although it doesn't give specific #'s, it DOES tell you if the motor has a Lean, Stoich, or Rich condition. That information alone is vital to whether or not your car is running properly at WOT. For example, if you are running at the track and for some screwed up reason you see the air/fuel ratio gauge go into "lean" (or anywhere near it), at least you'll be advised to let off of the juice before you're motor is destroyed. I ALWAYS WATCH THE AIR/FUEL RATIO GAUGE AT THE TRACK. And yes, it is accurate, because when I hooked up Autotap a few times and watched both the autotap program and the air/fuel ratio gauge, the readings were identical.
[ January 30, 2004: Message edited by: Shirl ]</p>
Ok, wow, well. I've never had an Air/Fuel gauge. They must be perfect in every single way. Mine showed rich when my actual A/F was 14.0 to 1, how accurate is that. At 15.0 to 1, you have a dead motor. Let's not forget how far downstream the O2 sensors are, by the time it registers on the gauge, 300 more revoloutions have taken place. Truely, the only way to perfectly tune a car is via a pyrometer monitoring every cylinder. But that is neither here nor there.
What's with the stigma of not being able to run over a 75 shot with the stock fuel system? The difference between a 75 shot and a 100 shot is really negligible. The MAF will pick up the cooler, denser air and add fuel. I wouldn't trust the MAF much over 100hp, but that's when I start adding in race fuel.
As I said, I personally would not run more than a 75 shot without a fuel pump. Especially, since he will most likely INCREASE the shot once he gets use to using nitrous. More oxygen warrants more fuel...plain and simple. Also, it sounds like something's wrong with your air/fuel ratio gauge if your readings are that bad. Mine reads EXACTLY what Autotap shows on the laptop as I look at the O2's on one of the gauges I created with the program. The readings may not be dead-on but they are accurate enough to monitor your motor's conditions at WOT especially when spray is involved.
Product ID: F-1009-10
Category: TNT KIts
Universal Dry EFI System
Description: Designed for mass air car applications and can be used to produce 50-100 additional rear wheel horsepower.
I have an Autometer air/fuel ratio gauge. I'm not sure how well the other brands work. I can tell you that it will be "active" at idle and under normal driving conditions. You will get your concrete readings of rich, stoich, or lean at WOT. I don't know about the TNT kit, but I think it sounds fine. Why don't you want a wet kit?
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Bird_Of_Prey: If you want a really simple kit, just get an NOS single nozzle, 4ft braided line, 1 solenoid, 16ft braided line and a bottle. Insert the nozzle in the IAT location, and bam, nitrous kit in under 30 minutes.<hr></blockquote>
its a cheap little setup that Bird of Prey is suggesting. He is trusting the MAF to add the needed extra fuel. Should be ok for 75-100 shot, I still prefer wet kits though. Depends how good/complete of a kit you want really. IMO you should NEVER cut corners with nitrous. Its not very forgiving at all.
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