Why does a wet kit hit harder?

[phoenix64]

I was just wondering why it is that a wet kit hits harder and makes WAY more torque. I understand how wet kit vs dry kit works. Its the same amount of nitrous and fuel right? Is it the way the fuel is atomized? Also does anyone know if a dry kit is easier on your engine b/c it doesn't hit as hard? Torque is what shatters pistons and rods right?

[oil pan 4]

I think it is because of the instant hit of oxidizer and fuel that does it.
The dry kits have to be before the MAF (giving the gas time to expand and warm) and the wet can be right infrount of the Tb and in some cases right be hind it unless you have direct port injection (fires fuel and nitrous into the cylinder ports).
Direct port would hit real hard.

[phoenix64]

Thanks for the response, but I'm still wondering if the dry kit would be "easier" on the engine?

When people say "you can make more power with a turbo, and it will last longer than a nitrous engine" are they talking about wet or dry kits? or is it true of both?

[V6Firebird94]

dry kits arent easier on an engine, wet kits are said to be better for your engine, however either way u look at nitrous is not easy on the engine, but wet puts more power due to the nitrous/fuel injection and the fact it is located closer to the intake where the dry shot has to be put closest to the air box..as comparison a 85 dry shot is equal to 75hp and a 75wet shot is 75hp

[V6Firebird94]

Originally posted by phoenix64:


When people say "you can make more power with a turbo, and it will last longer than a nitrous engine" are they talking about wet or dry kits? or is it true of both?

turbos are more efficient, they have a more constant boost, where nitrous the pressure can drop and u always have to fill the bottle, but with a turbo ur gettin a constant boost without having to worry bout the bottle pressure, turbos are better on the engine then the nitrous is becuz its recycyling exhaust inductin the air into the engine were nitrous is just straight up burning hot as hell in the engine, turbos use intercoolers to induct cooler air

[AlienInv8r]

Originally posted by V6Firebird94:
turbos are better on the engine then the nitrous is becuz its recycyling exhaust inductin the air into the engine were nitrous is just straight up burning hot as hell in the engine, turbos use intercoolers to induct cooler air

One of the primary functions of nitrous is to cool the intake charge, taken straight from the modifications encyclopedia:

Nitrous does two things:
1. It super oxygenates the air/fuel mixture allowing it to hold more fuel so the combustion process produces more power
2. It cools the air/fuel mixture which both allows the air/fuel mix to hold more fuel and also helps reduce hot spots in the cylinder that could lead to detonation.

Isn't the difference in the two power adders, as far as being easier on the engine, that nitrous hits its power all at once and sorta shocks the engine versus the turbo coming on smooth and building that boost more gradually. Kinda like hot water - if you stick your hand directly in hot water then it'll burn you, but if you go from luke warm to gradually hot then it doesnt burn. Not quite to the extremem of hurting you, but the analogy spells it out.

[phoenix64]

I'm sorry guys but I'm just getting more confused here. Now I understand why a et kit hits harder, but

Why is a wet kit "better" for your engine? It seems to me that you would have a better distribution of Nitrous and fuel with a dry kit. Nitrous is lighter than fuel, so it injecting them at the same point seems like a bad idea.

The hot water is a sensation thing. The water still burns you at an exact temp, it just dosen't hurt as bad if you do it slowly.

If the extra wear and tear of nitrous is from the "shock" then dry kits shouldn't damage the engine as quickly. It has to be from elevated combustion temperatures. Right? Does a nitrous air mix create more heat when it burns than just compressed air?

[phoenix64]

Has anyone on this board blown their engine on a dry shot? that wasn't the b/c of detonation, running lean, or some combination of the 2.

[ April 14, 2004, 07:43 PM: Message edited by: phoenix64 ]

[oil pan 4]

If you don't want a wet kit to hit your engine so hard use a muti stage system like I have designed.
stage 1, start with a 50 shot.
stage 2, turns off stage 1 as a 100 shot comes on.
stage 3, the stage 2 100 keeps going,but the 50 shot comes back on.
The stage one could be a 50 or 75 shot spary bar.
The stage 2 could be a direct port or spary bar with a 100 shot or more.
Then the next thing people all ways say is " that's 2 more switchs than you need".
I built it there is only 1 switch (unless you pop open the conroal box and there will be switches to turn off any one of the stages or just spary 1 stage and ajust the rpms that each stage comes on at).
I would never run a dry shot.
If you spary the nitrous and fuel through the same port the nitrous scatters the fuel.
Try runing nitrous and methanol. It should be easyer on the engine, it burns cooler, it has an octain of about 118, it has more of a cooling effect because you have to burn 2X as much as gas, you can run higher comperssion, you can run your car hotter, it burns with no black smoke, it's not as explosive as gas and it costs about as much as race gas when you consider the volume you have to burn.

[phoenix64]

Why would you never run a dry shot?

[MrCoffee]

dry kit is more dangerous. Its more likely to backfire. Any sort of large power adder is not good for the engine, so a turbo vs n2o debate isnt really reasonable. "which evil is less evil?"
start small, maybe a 50 wet shot. then when you get some runs with that and have the urge to upgrade all you have to do is change the jets.

[oil pan 4]

With my Z28 it is carbed so a dry shot is imposible.
With a turbo V6 no way I would do dry.
If I want to spool the turbos with nitrous I want it to hapen fast.
I realy want to use propane and nitrous on the V6, that would make for some killer intake charge cooling.
You don't want to run lean with nitrous and turbo at all, with wet it is less likely to happen.
I can make sure I have lots of fuel for cooling.

[Drone51]

BS a dry kit is safer in terms of back fires because you have no fuel in the intake (nitrous itself is not flamable, all it does it does is add more o2 and when you add more o2 and more fuel you make more power). our intake is not made to run fuel through it, a dry kit is safer in all ways. with a wet kit if your fuel noid goes out or does not open and your spraying just nitrous into the motor after the maf your car is gonna go boom

with a dry kit the nitrous tells the car hey more air is coming in let me dump more fuel into the engin. allso dry kits should disperse between the cyclinders better because it has more time to spread out evenely


also there IS a way to maintain the same pressure in a bottle the WHOLE PASS and its not by using a heater so nitrous pressure would not fall off through the pass.

I like the stage idea alot (more money tho)
tq is whats gonna kill the motor the lower the rpm the more the tq (say you spray a 50 shot out the hole and then at like 4500 you spray another 50 shot the 2nd stage wont make your tq as high as spraying a 100 shot out of the hole but will give your the power) I think with computer tuning 150 shot is possible in stages not all at once and I think our cars could run on that say a 75 shot out the hole and 75 at 4500 (spray the 2nd stage when tq starts to drop off from the first stage)

keeping a flat tq curve the whole pass will get you the hp you want and the times you want
350 tq at 3000rpms (gives you 200hp) is not a lot of hp, 350tq at 6000 rpms (gives you 400 hp)is close to 400


hp = (tq*rpm)/5252


so if you keep your tq flat the power will be there

also you cant spray anything else while spraying with a direct port. The dp will essenilly kill all the flow in the intake, the dp is providning more then enough air and fuel, so you cant spray say a dry 50 shot will spraying a 100 dp shot if you go dp the best thing is to get a nitrous controller, one that vaired with rpm would be best so you could flow more nitrous up and not as much down low with will help keep your tq up

[phoenix64]

I thought a wet kit is more likely to backfire, because of the fuel in the manifold?

I'm still curious if anyone has blown their motor from a dry shot, that wasn't because of running lean and/or detonation?

[Drone51]

james is the only one on the board that i know of and thats because he changed injectors and didnt have his computer tuned so basicly he went lean


wet is more likly to cause a backfire in the intake, fuel puddleing in an intake that is not ment to see fuel is a bad thing, make things go boom