Why does a wet kit hit harder?

[Timbo1969]

I talked to one of the technicians at an F-bod race shop here. He advised that going over a 100 wet shot was really risky due to the reasons Drone mentioned. He suggested direct port for anything over a 125 shot on any engine.

[Drone51]

i agree if you have look at the uper intake, I have no idea how fuel would not start to puddle after a 100 shot


dp is safe and is great if no tunning is avaliable because you add all the fuel you need evenly and it goes right to each cylinder


now another way to go is a dry shot with tunning and bigger injectors, if you have tuning the injectors wont make the car run bad and when you spray they will spray more fuel which is the only reason we cant run a bigger dry shot the about a 100 dry shot because we would go lean, and you can do how ever many stages you want you could also spray a wet and dry shot if you wanted but (by tunning i also mean messing with the maf table and what not also timing, you would want to start pulling timing with more nitrous)

[Timbo1969]

Yeah a huge shot would require extensive tuning without a doubt. I'm planning on spraying in the future so when I build the engine for it. I'm adding a new high pressure intank pump and 26 lb LS-1 injectors, and hopefully the HP Tuners software will be available when I get around to the complete build up, so I can dial everything in with precision.

[1998silverbird]

A Dry kit uses your injectors to add the fuel needed.. Its safe for small shots but the bigger you go the more fuel you need.. the bigger the dry shot is the closer you are to maxing out your injectors.. 22lbs/hr..

Wet kit you add the fuel with the fuel jets and spray fuel and nitrous into your intake.. I run a wet kit and for 2 years now have had 1 backfire.. it was when I tried power shifting 4th gear.. I heard a pop and that was it.. Nothing happened it just blew a hole in my intake hose.. that was the 1st and last time I tried powershifting while sprayin.. When I miss a gear sprayin it backfires but its throught the exaust and the blue flames out the talepipes..

To keep bottle pressure have a full bottle and when you spray leave the warmer on..

Turbos are great and all but when I aint sprayin I am using 87 octane..Its anoying to fill the bottle but I like not having to use 93 all the time..
Yes Nitorus is not always there.. your bottle will empty but If I had a Turbo I would have a lot more tickets becuase When my bottle in empty I always run into a C5 or somthing and he wants to run.. I think man if I had my bottle right now I would Hit third and pull on him.. Well just when I am thinking that we pass right by a undercover cop.. If I had a turbo I would have just hit it but then would have been caught!!

[phoenix64]

I'm in the process of porting my intake manifolds, and after looking at them I can't picture where you could drill into it to run a direct port system. Are you guys going to be drilling into the upper manifold, or the lower?

[phoenix64]

Does anyone know what happened to malice's engine?

[oil pan 4]

Propane can't and won't puddle in any intake.
Unless your running about 275 psi of boost in Alaska during winter.
I am trying to get a TB injected 1 stage 50 wet shot with nitrous and propane for the v6 and 3 stage (direct port and plate) nitrous & Methanol for the Z28.
If you want to direct port a 60*-V6 you should get a 2.8 or 3.1 upper and lower plenum and make a upper and lower spacer and drill and tap that for the injectors.
There isn't realy a good place to put injectors on there so you have to make one.
I don't think a dry shot is unsafe if that is all your runnig (for n/a).
For a wet vs. dry 50 shot on a n/a mostly stock v6 a dry is most likely better.
What I don't like is the idea of is a big dry shot or a big single injector wet shot on a n/a some what stock engine. In this case I'll call any thing over 125 a big shot for a mostly stock engine.
If you build and tune you can do all most any thing you want at that point "to each his own".
If you have a forced induction and nitrous car I would not use dry.
I said I would never run a dry shot on my car (thinking turbo and nitrous).
If you any one else has or is going to have a turbo V6 you can put dry nitrous on it if you want, I wouldn't stop you. I don't think it is going to be very easy to tune the thing on a dry shot.
For me it's not just any old case of wet vs dry, it's wet (propane) vs. dry 50 shot with an engine runing about .8 - 1.0 Bar of turbo boost.
The .8 - 1.0 bar is the entry level for the 3.4L after the pistons and modified sm jornal SBC forged Hbeam rods go in.
I would like to run up to 1.9 Bar some day.
Why I don't want boost + dry nitrous...
Say I make 380hp under full boost and a 50 shot of nitrous.
If I spary a dry shot and the EGT's go way up with a good O2 count, I would have to play with fuel pressure, change injectors or maybe the fuel pump is to small now to push 228 lb/m of fuel at 60psi and alter the soft ware (which is the only one I can't do).
The wet shot would act a little faster.
If I run a wet shot and have high EGT but the O2 count is good I could just pop in a bigger fuel jet and get the fuel I need for cooling(saying that the fuel is propane). I'll also need the intake charge cooling if I'm runing 23psi.
But I still think wet hits harder, Dry might be safer when compairing small shots on a stockish engine.
Would you still call it a wet shot even if you don't have any liquid fuel going in the intake [img]smile.gif[/img] ?

[12secondv6]

Dry kits rely on the fpr and injectors to compensate.

Wet kits already have that air / fuel mixture combined so it hits MUCH harder.

It also creates more power.

Now, yes, I did blow an engine on a dry kit due to a newbie thought process in my head and mismatched injectors, DOH! I have learned since then [img]smile.gif[/img]

I have had both wet and dry kit backfires.

Dry kit backfires, or sneezes as I call them are not that bad/ destructive.

Maybe I've replaced a rubber elbow or reattatched a vaccum line.

Wet kit backfires RIP through LOADS of parts :(

I've replaced vaccum lines, maf, iat, rubber elbow, air filters, black plastic elbow into brake booster, fpr plastic bit etc, get myidea?

Our intake manifolds are not designed as a 'wet' manifold. They are not designed for fuel to be in them. This is why I prefer to suggest dry kits.

Um.... were there any other q's...... um.... dunno, let me know

[malice10985]

Originally posted by phoenix64:
Does anyone know what happened to malice's engine?

Malice got greedy while he was on the dyno. He was surrounded by pimped out vettes from the southwind corvette club, and he wanted to make his little v6 look like it had some nuts.

I put in a .062 NX flare jet, which was worth about 125HP. I have a NOS 5175 dry kit. All was well, untill I got close to the rev limiter.

I contend that the rev limiter cut off my fuel earlier than 5850rpm. Most other people would say: "Malice is a dumba$$, he bounced off the rev limiter".

The engine went super lean at about 5800rpm, made one loud pop, and surged up to almost 6200rpm. All of that happened in less than a second. When it returned to idle, it was ticking loudly. A big chunk was missing out of piston #2. I found parts of that piston in every other cylinder, and in the upper intake manifold.

I think probable cause for failure was one massive detonation, or knock, in cylinder #2. I think the #2 intake port is closest to the front of the engine, and it got the most nitrous with no fuel.

The rev limiter pulls fuel, not spark!! When spraying a dry shot, DON'T flirt with the rev limiter!!

[98v6]

so, how much power did you make, malice?

[UsMuScL398]

Originally posted by 1998silverbird:
Turbos are great and all but when I aint sprayin I am using 87 octane..Its anoying to fill the bottle but I like not having to use 93 all the time..
Yes Nitorus is not always there.. your bottle will empty but If I had a Turbo I would have a lot more tickets becuase When my bottle in empty I always run into a C5 or somthing and he wants to run.. I think man if I had my bottle right now I would Hit third and pull on him.. Well just when I am thinking that we pass right by a undercover cop.. If I had a turbo I would have just hit it but then would have been caught!!

Lmao thats great...it happens to me to sept i look at my actual fuel gauge and dont race....then the cop rolls by and i just about scream

as for nitrous....these threads im reading are just not helping me even think of EVER considering it and im glad to be gettin my turbo [img]graemlins/banana.gif[/img]

[speedy-v6-camaro]

Originally posted by oil pan 4:
Propane can't and won't puddle in any intake.

Duh...and I was unaware that propane can be added to a gasoline engine. I know that you can run a pure propane engine and you can use propane as a power adder for diesel engines. Please explain your reasoning for this.

[DARK SDE '02]

So how are us automatic guys safe when using nitrous if the computer doesn't shift until it hits the limiter? Mine's at 6000rpms since my custom tuning, is that too high for nitrous on a stock engine with bolt-ons?

[12secondv6]

Usually the RPM limited is a couple hundred rpm's above when the car shifts.

I hit a rev limiter once because I left it in 2nd and sprayed :(