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  • James..problems with your engine?

    hey James...this ones pretty much directed at you...but i guess anyone with info can step in...over the winter im having my internals modified so that my engine is somewhat like yours...and i will also be converting to a wet nitrous system and saying bye bye to a crappy dry one...i wanted to know...after having the mods to your internals...have you had any real problems with your engine when running nitrous?...can you pretty much run that 100 wet shot whenever you please without having any problems?...i want to build a nitrous/blower motor but i guess i want to be sure its worth it...i want to run some serious power without having to worry if im going to break something every time
    <b>12 SECOND DUAL STAGE DRY NITROUS POWERED 98 A4 V6 CAMARO<br /><a href=\"http://www.mysickcamaro.50megs.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.MySickCamaro.50megs.com</a><br />Best ET: 12.82@103<br />Best MPH: 104.7<br />Best 60\': 1.75 - Stock TC</b><br /> </font><blockquote><font size=\"1\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">quote:</font><hr /><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">Originally posted by Shodown:<br /><strong>1DV6 runs 12\'s...enough said. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">

  • #2
    Modifications to the internals like mine?

    So, you will be going stock huh?

    I just have ported heads, intake and TB and upgraded valvetrain.

    Other than that, BONE stock junkyard engine.

    Why are you going wet? If I had a powerdyne set up I would NOT go wet, I would keep it dry.
    Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
    nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
    2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
    2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

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    • #3
      why not run wet?
      http://www.bowtiev6.com/

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      • #4
        ohhh...i thought for some reason that you had more done to the actual block...i was thinking of going wet because of where my shot already injects (which could just be moved if i stayed dry)...and just because its supposed to be a lot safer for the engine...why is it that you would stick with a dry kit on a blown engine?
        <b>12 SECOND DUAL STAGE DRY NITROUS POWERED 98 A4 V6 CAMARO<br /><a href=\"http://www.mysickcamaro.50megs.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.MySickCamaro.50megs.com</a><br />Best ET: 12.82@103<br />Best MPH: 104.7<br />Best 60\': 1.75 - Stock TC</b><br /> </font><blockquote><font size=\"1\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">quote:</font><hr /><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">Originally posted by Shodown:<br /><strong>1DV6 runs 12\'s...enough said. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">

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        • #5
          Dry kit, just nitrous, makes a nice cool intake charge to aid in a NON INTERCOOLED BLOWN engine.

          Very rarely has backfires.

          Wet kit, injects raw fuel and nitrous into an intake manifold that is under extreme pressure due to the blower compressing more and more air in there. If there is a backfire it RIPS through the intake system AND blower causing damage there too
          Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
          nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
          2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
          2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

          Comment


          • #6
            just move the nozzle man...u'd probably **** yourself at the difference it'll make....
            <b>Black</b> 1998 Pontiac <i>Firebird</i> A-4 swap<br />271.4rwhp/259.4rwtq NA<br />13.30@102.44 <br /><a href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98\" target=\"_blank\">www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98</a>

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            • #7
              ok..definitely makes sense...when i move the nozzle...should i put it before or after the blower?...i was thinking of just sticking it into the discharge tube after the bov ..about 8" - 10" away from the maf & tb
              <b>12 SECOND DUAL STAGE DRY NITROUS POWERED 98 A4 V6 CAMARO<br /><a href=\"http://www.mysickcamaro.50megs.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.MySickCamaro.50megs.com</a><br />Best ET: 12.82@103<br />Best MPH: 104.7<br />Best 60\': 1.75 - Stock TC</b><br /> </font><blockquote><font size=\"1\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">quote:</font><hr /><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">Originally posted by Shodown:<br /><strong>1DV6 runs 12\'s...enough said. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">

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              • #8
                If you spray a dry shot with the blower wont that max out the injectors??
                Jeff ..
                1998 Firebird.. Built 3.8 with a 125 shot.. 370rwhp,415rwtq.. stock tune!! sold

                2002 WS6 T/A.. Bolt ins..448rwhp
                2009 G8 GT.. Vararam intake, GXP axleback
                1998 Corvette.. Vararam intake, Ti axleback
                http://www.fquick.com/slow-v6

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                • #9
                  Depends on total added hp, and injector size.

                  My 24's were good for a 150 shot.

                  If the blower is 100 and the shot is a 50, and the injectors are 24's then it might work.
                  \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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                  • #10
                    what about a direct port system???
                    2002 NBM Pontiac Firebird Formula<br />Mods: stock...<br />1997 Chevy Camaro *Gone*<br />Mods:Borla,headers,Magnaflow cat, SLP intake, NOS 5175

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                    • #11
                      Well, direct port is always better than wet or dry kits
                      Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
                      nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
                      2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
                      2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        yeah he could just sell drugs for a month or two and get a direct port system. i would just keep the dry system (like james said its good for the cooling effect, and a wet system isnt optimal for blowers) and spend my money on an intercooler setup for that blower. talk to greenglow about his greddy intercooler setup, but i think a saab 900 ic would work fine for that blower and would be easy to addapt to the system. now as for engine mods for what you are doing... get 8.5cr pistons, port n pollish your heads, get a walbro 255 fuel pump (if you dont already have it), you might want to get bigger injectors (if you do i would also suggest getting HP tuners programmer), if you get the intercooler go ahead and get a nitrous spray bar to cool it down further (i mean you already have the nitrous you might as well use it to its full potential), then go ahead and do your valve train and you should be set to race with a reliable cool running engine. (this should all keep you buisy for a while)
                        2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard

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                        • #13
                          yeah thats why i want to go with upgrading the internals because i want to be able to run a 100 shot with the 6 lb. blower and not have to worry about anything...but if i end up not having the dough i think i'll just drop it to a 50 shot on top of the blower...i would still be happy running mid 13s (when i get there..right now i mostly run highs..but my gears are going in too)

                          T-Punk ...yeah thats pretty much what the guy has planned..for the pistons, heads, and valvetrain..minus the pump...but i think im going to switch to that one anyway because i hate the noisy external one i have now...i pop the fuse out while im not at the track because its no annoying

                          thanks for all the info guys...i definitely appreciate it and will be taking a lot of this info with me to the shop!
                          <b>12 SECOND DUAL STAGE DRY NITROUS POWERED 98 A4 V6 CAMARO<br /><a href=\"http://www.mysickcamaro.50megs.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.MySickCamaro.50megs.com</a><br />Best ET: 12.82@103<br />Best MPH: 104.7<br />Best 60\': 1.75 - Stock TC</b><br /> </font><blockquote><font size=\"1\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">quote:</font><hr /><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">Originally posted by Shodown:<br /><strong>1DV6 runs 12\'s...enough said. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">

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                          • #14
                            yeah i would deffinately go in tank if you can. there is a link in a post from a while back on where to cut an access pannel to put the pump in without taking down your rear axel assembly and all that fun stuff. good luck, and make sure your work is done right.
                            2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard

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