joining the ranks

[DarkEcho]

yes they spray uneven but with the wet kit, the ratio of Air to fuel is the same, but some cylinders will get more power, but the ratio is constant therefore there is much less risk of leaning out some cylinders and richening some.... am i right about that??

now about the puddling thing.... as long as you spray at the right time 3000+, how much risk is ther of backfire? how often do backfires occur if you are doing everything right i should say... and are there any ways to totally prevent backfire or make it so unlikely that its "safe"

i know i know "nitrous isnt safe blah blah blah" i dont want to hear that anymore, i just want to know if there is a way to prevent puddling...

Also, I worry about the stock injectors freezing up which is also why I would rather have the fuel mixed into the system before hand... I think that there are less stock parts being stressed with the wet system because basically the onlything that deals with the nitrous is the pistons and back, eliminating the exposure of the injectors and what not.
thanks again... im really learning a ton about nitrous..

[DarkEcho]

u know what guys.... i just saw the NOSzle system
damn that was a great idea..... i really like the idea of the nozzle system, no backfiring! no chance of bad ratio! its great!

expensive but great.... i really like the idea they have maybe ill go with this kit...... ill just have to save up longer [img]smile.gif[/img]


one thing tho, isnt NOS known for ****ty noids? THAT would be my biggest concern, the noids melting in the open position or somthing.... then you have an issue... especially if you let off the gas...... perhaps you could install some safety noids? like two TNT noids in a relay with the nos noids so that if the nos noids fail, the TNT noids will still close? or at LEASE rig it so that if the fuel noid fails then the power doesnt continue to the nitrous noid? er something... i duno ....i guess its one risk i will have to take... what are the chances of noids freezing open?
or are they designed to not get stuck... i mean it takes power to open it but then its like spring loaded closed again, what is the possiblity of it getting stuck open, how could it get stuck open, debris? is that the only way? thanks guys!

[1DangerousV6]

hmmmmm...after James made his last post now im thinking a window switch might not be a bad idea after all lol...anyways...the NOSzle system has been the other way i have been considering going with [img]smile.gif[/img]

[12secondv6]

Ok, no matter what type of system, dry or wet single nozzle system WILL spray unevenly into the cylinders.

The only way past that is a true direct port system. I've discussed the NOSzles system before and I'm not impressed with it.

If I were you, and I'm speaking from experience, go with the nos kit 5175 dry kit with an 85 hp shot

[1DangerousV6]

hmmmm...then i'll save my money and just go with the basic wet conversion [img]smile.gif[/img]

[DarkEcho]

whats wrong with the NOSzle system? it looks so easy!!!!!.....

ok so James, whats the deal with the dry kits then, how bad are they for your engine, from what i have read, they produce the MOSt uneven spray, the others do a better job with the distribution of the ratio... I want a good amount of power but i really want to go the safest route possible... the only thing that i have heard bad about dry is the leaning of some cylinders.... just how bad can this leaning get and is there any way to make it better?

what about the TNT dry shot, i have heard that TNT has great solenoids, I would rather get a good system that I can depend on for a while, whats the highest shot i can do with dry? without damaging anything?

[shortdog273]

I usually ran a 75 wet shot with no problems.

[DarkEcho]

well i had a whole new set of question and that thread seemed to be dying out.

I am still having trouble getting the kind of answers i want but maybe im just being too greedy, i know theres a risk involved, and Im willing to take it, but im just being hesitant to the first step... so im just going to spend more time researching wet/dry, since i know that im not going to spend the money for the DP systems...

now i just have to decide which one has worse damage and how much they cost. maybe then i can make my decision.....

[12secondv6]

I locked this thread:
http://www.camarov6.com/ubb/ultimate...c;f=3;t=001588

Why was it started.... I figured we would stay in one area to address all questions.

Sometimes I wonder when I post things..... maybe people don't listen to me.....

Ok, BEST PERFECTLY EVEN amount of nitrous per cylinder is a direct port system, no other kit will compare.

Since you have said I want the safest kit, direct port is the way to go.

Now, NOSzles...... do a search, I made a couple threads on it.

All the magazine testing seemed to produce, what I consider, very weak RWTQ gains. I should have posted RWHP and RWTQ numbers.

If you want a dry kit, NOS kit 5175

Let me know of further questions.

If I came off strong due to locking your other thread....... I'm a direct person. We are attempting to answer all your questions and I prefer to keep it in one area.

I have NO reason to lie to you. I'm a die hard v6 guy. I won't tell you, spray a 200 shot, go for it. I'll ask you what you want and taylor my response to that

[DarkEcho]

i understand, i realize that I should have stayed in this thread, I was getting impatient and though that a new thread would get me more responses but i was just getting impatient, Thank you all for your responses I am very very very gratful for you effort in trying to help me, im a bit paranoid about this as you can probably tell.
ok so Im going to take what I've learned so far and what james has told me, it sounds like wet is definately going to cost me if i get a backfire, and it sounds like i will have at least one which i cant afford, so Im going to look at direct port and dry kit...

direct port involves drilling and tapping the cylinders? how hard is this, engine removal required? if so then im going to have to go with dry. simple as that. if the engine has to be removed then im going to go dry. and since dp is probably a LOt more expensive, ill be going dry... i feel like a wimp going dry, and im hoping that dry isnt too much weaker than wet... but then again, if i get ballsy i can always get a wet converstion right? Thanks all, im going to go dry. Now about NOS... i have heard people saying that their noids suck.... why not a TNT kit or NX kit? thanks again james, your experience really helps us newbs out. you should get AIM if you REALLY want to help out the V6-community LOL then you can be constantly nagged and questioned. anyways, im off to school. thanks guys!!!! i really really appreciate all of your responses!!!

[12secondv6]

Not a prob, and I have IM, james12secv6 [img]smile.gif[/img]

You don't need to remove the engine for a direct port system.

They would remove the upper intake manifold and drill and tapp it.

Expected cost of base dry kit - $550
Expected cost of base DP kit - $1100- 1200

Direct port is BY FAR safer.

I would not be fazed by running a 125 direct port on a bone stock v6 f body.

I was happy with NOS as a brand for dry kit. It got me to 12.8?

TNT makes great wet kits. Hee hee, see sig

A decent amount of members run NX wet kits and they are satisfied

[DarkEcho]

awesome thanks for the info... i will consider a direct port system... how difficult is removing the upper intake? couple bolts and hoses? any really difficult parts to it? and about the drilling and tapping. just how hard is that part? I assume that you have to use a drill... can it be any kind of drill or do you want a drill press to do the job, and how do you "tap" the holes you drilled? are there like places where the holes have to be or what? is it one of those things that i will totally understand once i get the kit and take off the upper intake? thanks!

[1DangerousV6]

^^you could remove it and drill/tap it yourself in a few hours...you put an NTP pipe tap into each hole (provided with kit)...this gives it threads so you can screw in the fogger nozzles...about their solenoids...i've been spraying on them for about 3 years now and never had a problem...but i have heard if you'r egoing to go wet to go with the TNT solenoids...that'll be pretty sick...i think you'll be the only one here with direct port [img]smile.gif[/img] ...i decided to stay dry...i still want to push it farther...but dont feel like a "wimp"..haha...when i come out i'll be spraying far James's fastest on a dry kit...12.8 is the goal ;) ...but i'll be happy with very low 13s ...you should definitely be into the 12s on a 125 DP...no doubt about it [img]smile.gif[/img] ..if not somethings wrong lol...after i get bored of the dry kit i'll probably check out the NOSzle kit just to try it out...but overall i'll probably stay dry

[DarkEcho]

yeah.... what DP kits are there for our cars anyway?! I would love to be able to blow all that cash on nitrous... but i will have to save up for sooo long for the junk... man i wish i had money [img]smile.gif[/img] the Noszle system really looks cool, i really like the design, very smart concept, although, it seems that people are disatisfied with the numbers... i like the numbers though lol [img]smile.gif[/img] I am interested in seeing exactly what a v6 produces... anyone got numbers? lol... the real direct port would be friggin sweet but i have not found any manufactures for it? I want to take the plunge and be the first one on the board to get DP but then again, i think 12second should have that honor [img]tongue.gif[/img]

anyways... dry is still a possibility, because DP is so expensive...gawd...1200 bucks, at least it comes with EVERYTHING...i think... at least it has the wot fpss and window switch, not sure bout the blow down tube or bottle heater... anyways... thanks guys... still unsure about my decision... has anyone using a dry kit ever had to pull the motor and replace a burnt ring? or do any repairs whatsoever with the dry kit? even plugs... and how many times? thanks guys

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

I DONT KNOW JAMES

were the hell you going to put the things in the lower intake and still fit the upper intake on there?!?!!? theres like no room at all.....the upper in take cover the lower intake REALLY WELL maybe just buy some 2 input fuel injectors to spray both the fuel nos lol