joining the ranks

[DarkEcho]

Ok guys, I have just been through about 30+ searched topics... learned alot and i also read this "Turbocharging, Supercharing, and Nitrous oxide" book that was very very very interesting/helpful

So now that I have a pretty good understanding of what nitrous does and how certain type work, I know that wet and ported shots are a bit harder to install/ wet increases chances of puddling and backfire... now then

My parents are friggin nazis and so I am going to have to explain this **** to them in a way that it sounds safe and I too do not wish to loose my engine, i know i will probably crave more HP once i get sprayin, but it sounds like the basic dry kit from NOS is the 5175 kit. I am thinking that I would probably go with this kit being the most recommended and with the safety stuff added to it, would be rather safe for use... i assume that one of the better RPMS to begin spraying it is 3500... now that means that once at 3500 rpms you press the button right? does it matter what gear your in or whatever when you start? i have an Auto so i dont think ill have any trouble missing a shift and backfiring :-P

One other question, a "windows switch" as it is called, is that where the button is armed during the best "window of opportunity" for the spray? and then if you are idling or the car is at low RPM the switch isnt armed and wont do anything when pressed? i am just guessing please clarify!

what shots does the 5175 kit come with? will it be good enough for my needs?
also my modifications so far include

Upgraded shocks and springs, wheels and tires.
SLP loudmouth *Bullet muffler* exhaust catback
Whisper lid with K&N filter,
Transgo shift kit

with these mods, am I pretty well prepared for the 5175 kit? I am also considering headers pretty soon here. I will not be getting a CAM or anything, I will probably never take the engine out of the car or dismantle it in any serious way, this is just for some power for fun..

I have never been to the track with my car, I probably will try it out once i get nos setup. I dont street race frequently, everynow and then, I live on straight boring roads and so i tend to enjoy "WOT"ing all the time and I think that nos would help back up my cars look and lack of 2 cylinders [img]smile.gif[/img]

So basically, Ill be using nos just for fun every now and then after i get over the initial stage of "OMG I HAVE NAAAWWWWSS!!!" and spraying every 10 minutes.
Thanks all!!!

[Silv6]

Comes with a 85 shot, netted me 60 rwhp.
i dont use a window switch, just floor it, wait till its above 3k then flip the switch.

id change plugs if i where you also.

window switch is mainly for manuals. after arming the system and going WOT, the nirtous will go off only when you hit a certain rpm(i.e. 3000) and will cut off when you hit the other rpm you dailed in(i.e. 5500)

good luck with the parents, i had to do the same thing.

[DarkEcho]

did you have to use a better gas like 93 octane or something?

so if i buy that kit, what else should i purchase along with it?

[1DangerousV6]

if your car is auto you dont need a window switch...just go with the WOT switch the kit comes with...when you floor it from the line that will activate...then at about 3000 - 3500 rmps (about the top of first gear) hit the arming switch...and away you go...i would recommend NGK TR6 plugs gapped at .035 ...an aftermarket pump...and never running on anything less than 92 octane when spraying...race fuel for anything over a 100 shot...headers and your high flow exhaust set you up nice for kit 5175...you will find a bottle heater and psi gauge VERY useful...enjoy! [img]smile.gif[/img]

[DarkEcho]

in your emails you have convinced me to go wet..

so in addition to my wet nitrious kit, i need:

New fuel pump
New Plugs (NGK TR6)
To use 92 octane always (Incase of an unexpected challenge :cool: )

need some safety stuff like a wot switch, Maybe... now i got another question.....

i hear some stories about problem when the solenoid doesnt shut and then nitrous continually pours into the engine causing a lean condition and destruction.... if you had the remote bottle opener on a switch.... could you close it? incase of an emergency like that and at least keep some damage minimal? of perhaps installing an extra solenoid in the lines... then if something goes wrong you can punch that button off and close the secondary solenoid? i duno... just a though

[shortdog273]

Originally posted by 1DangerousV6:
if your car is auto you dont need a window switch.

I disagree.

DarkEcho, if you wanna save your motor, spend the extra bucks for a window switch. I (and others) know from experience. The V6 I had hit the rev limiter on spray and I had a nitrous backfire. Luckily, just the clips from the lid broke off. True, you can hit the button on and off at a certain rpm, but what if you forget? That's where a window switch come in handy. ;)

[arthansen]

I run a 75 Wet shot with TR6 plugs and stock fuel pump. No problem!

I also have all the safeties:
Window Switch
Fuel Pressure Safety Switch
WOT Switch.
Pressure Gauge
Bottle Heater

It is a small price for some peice of mind.

[DarkEcho]

ok guys so NX or TNT?? i REALLY like the TNT black bottles but NX has a lot of junk it seems availiable for them... any obvious strengths and weaknesses for each company? i have heard that TNT has great solenoids.... does that mean that NX doesnt? or what....thanks alot guys!!!! if i do upgrade the pump what brand and an estimate price please! walboro?

[1DangerousV6]

right...you could go ahead with a window switch actually...i dont see it as needed on an auto but the safer the better i guess...solenoids can stick open...its never happened to me...but it does happen...on both wet and dry kits...this is why if you're going with a wet kit...you shoud REALLY mount the fogger nozzle after the MAF and before the TB plate...this way if you let off the gas...the plate closes...and if you have a solenoid stuck open the plate blocks the nitrous from being sprayed into the engine and it stays in the TB ...im going with NOS because i've always used it...and i already have it so all i need is their wet conversion kit...but James has been using the TNT kit for quite some time now and really recommends that kit for a wet setup...you can get the walboro 255 pump for like $100...its intank so im not sure how much the labor is for that...i have the MSD external inline pump...i got that on summitracing.com for like $75 and have never had a problem with it...however...external pumps are pretty noisy...so theres a little fuse for it under the hood that i only pop in while im at the track...or you can just put a toggle switch on it...which is probably eventually what im gonna do...BTW...i checked out your car...very nice choice in rims [img]smile.gif[/img]

[12secondv6]

So, dry or wet?
You started w/ a dry shot then progressed to wet.

Personally, I'd say go with nos kit 5175 DRY 85 shot.

Add a FPSS, WOT switch, RPM window switch, master switch, bottle warmer, bottle blanket, blow down tube and ngk tr6 plugs.

As for convincing the parents.... good luck! [img]tongue.gif[/img]

If you are looking for a basic kit, go dry, nos kit 5175

[1DangerousV6]

^^i was just telling him to go with a basic wet kit because i think a wet kit is safer on your engine if you use it correctly (minus backfires)...why do you say basic dry?...just because of all the safety features?...this is the kit i started with...im just curious because im switching over to wet...but i have some experience with nitrous already...which might make some difference...i think the FPSS comes with kit 5175...in an email i mentioned to him to get all of the other accessories you mentioned...i forgot the blow down tube...you're gonna want that...and they wont let you run at the track without one...also i only mentioned the bottle warmer...not the blanket...i only use a bottle warmer but have found a blanket would come in very useful in these colder temps [img]smile.gif[/img]

[DarkEcho]

yeah im definately wanting a wet kit because of the uneven distribution of nitrous to each cylinder when running dry. I wouldnt want to cause small amounts of damage to my engine by running lean in some cylinders, I would rather spend some more and get the wet kit that is safer, as long as i dont start puddling.. which i wont because I will be installing every freakin safety device availiable

blow down, bottle heater, wot switch, windows switch, fuel pressure switch, and I will have the bottle on a remote opener...

one question i got is, if i have a remote opener, will i be able to stop any nitrous flow (perhaps in case of stuck solenoids) by turning off the remote opener?

any safety mechanisms i am forgeting? i will definately get a better pump so that the fuel isnt the weak link in my system... i would rather have too much gas than too little... I like the idea of the fogger in front of the TB so that the TB plate can block the spray if i let off the gas.... does that hinder performance at all? thanks guys your really being a huge help!!!

[1DangerousV6]

^^ right...basically i told him that spraying with a kit like 5175..you're increasing the fuel psi in each cylinder through your stock injectors...but the nitrous can be sprayed unevenly throuhg the intake causing some cylinders to run more rich and some to run more lean...with a wet kit...even if you spray the cylinders unevenly...the cylinders are at least still getting a proper nitrous/fuel ratio since both are coming right through the intake...thats the only bad thing i've heard about dry kits...i know from changing my plugs that mine sprays the front 4 more than the back two...whether the nozzle is before or after the MAF...if you still have the email i sent you forward it to James and see what he has to say...he has run both wet and dry...and he would know more than i would [img]smile.gif[/img]

[DarkEcho]

Ok so here is what im thinking of getting

NX Wet kit
NX Gen-X2 Upgrade package

So the safety devices that I will have will be

WOT Switch
Window Switch
Fuel Pressure Safety Switch
Blow Down Tube

and the fogger will be mounted infront of the TB plate so that it will block the spray if the solenoids are stuck open and I let off of the gas.

I will also have a Bottle warmer to keep are the right pressure and a pressure guage on the bottle, as well as an electronic one somewhere upfront for monitoring. I may also have an A/F guage.

the bottle will be mounted in the trunk somewhere hopefully hidden from cops [img]smile.gif[/img] if they happen to pull me over... also it will be mounted at an angle with the opening facing towards the front of the car, to ensure that even when gravity pushes the liquid towards the back of the car, there will always be liquid at the straw thing.

now what about mounting the fogger nozzle? do you just drill a hole somewhere and stick it in, or does it need to have a certain angle? i would thnk that the more straight it is shooting the better.... maybe not... anyways, thanks again guys

[12secondv6]

Originally posted by DarkEcho:
yeah im definately wanting a wet kit because of the uneven distribution of nitrous to each cylinder when running dry.

Both wet AND dry will spray unevenly into the cylinders.

Only a direct port will allow the eact amount of nitrous and fuel per cylinder.

As for what is safer: Dry.

The intake manifold design is not meant for liquid (ie fuel) and fuel puddling can occur which can lead to a NASTY backfire. Typical wet kit backfire repair costs were:
$40 per k&n air filer (2 used)
$60 rubber bend on slp cold air
$10 home depot ram air tubing
$200 for mass air flow sensor (inc core)
$20 vaccum fitting master cylinder
$30 vaccum fitting passenger side on upper intake
$20 new tb screen and ring
Misc charges for paint/ body damage

Dry kit backfire repair cost:
$20 new tb screen and ring
MAYBE charges for below items
$60 rubber bend on slp cold air
$30 vaccum fitting passenger side on upper intake

I have had backfires with both dry and wet. Wet is MUCH more expensive.

As for wet kit nozzle placements:

http://www.camarov6.com/ubb/ultimate...c;f=3;t=001579