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  • Leaning out

    Ok guys, I have been researching my *** off lately trying to decide on a system thats right for me...

    my main concern was safety, mostly for the car, but for myself as well... I found out that Dry shots can cause some small backfires but nothing too terrible wheras wet systems can cause nasty backfires and break lots of expensive stuff that I dont have the money to replace. So I was kinda shuting out the idea of the wet system and going towards the dry..but then...

    someone told me about how when nitrous is sprayed into the intake wet/or dry, the nitrous gets uneven distribution, for instance some cylinders get more nitrous than others, perhaps the back cylinders dont get as much nitrous. this causes leaning out in certain cylinders... that was thair explanation, now if someone could expand, how bad, what level of damage, does this leaning out produce, what is the extent of its harm? will i need new pistons in a month? or will i need new spark plugs or what...

    obviously wet systems get uneven distribution as well because they spray just like the dry kits (different location but same concept) BUT wet kits have the ratio pre mixed so even if one cylinder gets less nitrous than the others, there is still the right amount of fuel for the combustion, so if your running a 100 shot and all of the cylinders get the fuel except the back two, then they think they are only getting an 85 shot or somthing. But there is not chance of leaning

    my question about that is, just how well do the wet systems "fog" the mixture, is it a really good spray where the cloud is basically uniform through out?

    anyways, what I am really trying to figure out is I know that wet backfires can break stuff, but what can dry shots break? and how often do backfires occur, are they easily avoidable if you run good equiptment and safety switches?

    I have heard that TNT has great solenoids, which is what i want, a dependable system... i am running on stock everything, except i have a transgo shift kit, whisper lid with KN filter, and slp loudmouth exhaust.. and upgraded shocks and springs, wheels and tires.. so in addition to my above questions, NX or TNT systems???
    TNT has the good solenoids going for them, or so i have heard, but NX has nice packages, at least for wet, where i can get everything i need, TNT i would have to search around for some stuff, but i really dont mind that, please help me out guys, thanks alot!!!!!!!!! [img]graemlins/rock.gif[/img]
    -Hawk<br /><br />===================================<br />Black 2001 Pontiac Firebird<br />Automatic Transmission Street Bird<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/550453\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/550453</a> <br /><br />\"Live like you were Dying\"

  • #2
    if you go too lean you could do as little as burn a piston ring to much worse..a ring is like a $60 part...the trouble with our cars is that they have to remove the engine to get to it...so its a TON of labor
    <b>12 SECOND DUAL STAGE DRY NITROUS POWERED 98 A4 V6 CAMARO<br /><a href=\"http://www.mysickcamaro.50megs.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.MySickCamaro.50megs.com</a><br />Best ET: 12.82@103<br />Best MPH: 104.7<br />Best 60\': 1.75 - Stock TC</b><br /> </font><blockquote><font size=\"1\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">quote:</font><hr /><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">Originally posted by Shodown:<br /><strong>1DV6 runs 12\'s...enough said. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">

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    • #3
      so how easy is it to burn a ring??? just how lean do the dry kits make the cylinders?! I want to know the probability of burning a cylinder versus a wet backfire so that I can decide which one is less problematic for me. Please help me out thanks..
      -Hawk<br /><br />===================================<br />Black 2001 Pontiac Firebird<br />Automatic Transmission Street Bird<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/550453\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/550453</a> <br /><br />\"Live like you were Dying\"

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      • #4
        on a stock engine i wouldnt recommend running any higher than a 100 shot dry [img]smile.gif[/img] ...that should be fine...you would probably end up burning a ring or dropping a rod at a 125 - 150 shot (any more than once) ...i wouldnt worry too much about a 100 shot though...but you should have the plugs at .035 and probably an aftermarket pump...might wanna watch your fuel pressure and air/fuel ratio too...right now im trying to see what to do with the injectors so i can spray a 125 [img]smile.gif[/img]
        <b>12 SECOND DUAL STAGE DRY NITROUS POWERED 98 A4 V6 CAMARO<br /><a href=\"http://www.mysickcamaro.50megs.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.MySickCamaro.50megs.com</a><br />Best ET: 12.82@103<br />Best MPH: 104.7<br />Best 60\': 1.75 - Stock TC</b><br /> </font><blockquote><font size=\"1\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">quote:</font><hr /><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">Originally posted by Shodown:<br /><strong>1DV6 runs 12\'s...enough said. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">

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        • #5
          ok.......so if i dont go over a 100 shot i should be fine? does that mean that if i dont go over, i will never have an issue or will it slowly burn the rings?
          -Hawk<br /><br />===================================<br />Black 2001 Pontiac Firebird<br />Automatic Transmission Street Bird<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/550453\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/550453</a> <br /><br />\"Live like you were Dying\"

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          • #6
            well nobody can say that you'll NEVER have a problem because sh*t happens and not everyone's car is exactly the same...but if you take EVERY precation (read up on NOS's web site nosnitrous.com) ...fuel psi, bottle psi, timing, plugs, etc..you should be fine...nitrous does decrease engine life due to the introduction of more pressure and heat inside the cylinders...eventually it will wear doen your engine faster than if you left it bone stock...but we're talking a WHILE...not a metter of weeks or something...again...just take every precaution when running nitrous [img]smile.gif[/img]
            <b>12 SECOND DUAL STAGE DRY NITROUS POWERED 98 A4 V6 CAMARO<br /><a href=\"http://www.mysickcamaro.50megs.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.MySickCamaro.50megs.com</a><br />Best ET: 12.82@103<br />Best MPH: 104.7<br />Best 60\': 1.75 - Stock TC</b><br /> </font><blockquote><font size=\"1\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">quote:</font><hr /><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">Originally posted by Shodown:<br /><strong>1DV6 runs 12\'s...enough said. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">

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            • #7
              That's what the fpss is for. :cool:
              <b>99 Camaro Z28 A4</b><br />R.I.P. 00 Firebird 3.8<br />14.89 @ 90, 2.03 60\'

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              • #8
                ^^exactly..this senses if you have the required fuel pressure...if not...it shuts down the nitrous...however...this only protects your engine if your CAR's fuel system if not up to par with what is required...the fuel pressure can be correct at the fuel rail...so the nitrous would remain on...but if you are maxing out the injectors...then a lean condition would still be caused in the cylinders...that is why you can only run so high on the stock injectors...which is why wet kits are usually used for higher shots because the fuel is taken right from the fuel rail (or your own FMS)...and does not have to be passed through the injectors...which may not be able to handle the amount of fuel required for the selected shot...i would advise an upgraded fuel pump and not going over a 100 dry shot on a stock engine [img]smile.gif[/img]

                [ November 04, 2004, 08:41 PM: Message edited by: 1DangerousV6 ]
                <b>12 SECOND DUAL STAGE DRY NITROUS POWERED 98 A4 V6 CAMARO<br /><a href=\"http://www.mysickcamaro.50megs.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.MySickCamaro.50megs.com</a><br />Best ET: 12.82@103<br />Best MPH: 104.7<br />Best 60\': 1.75 - Stock TC</b><br /> </font><blockquote><font size=\"1\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">quote:</font><hr /><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">Originally posted by Shodown:<br /><strong>1DV6 runs 12\'s...enough said. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">

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                • #9
                  My post was mainly targeted towards the wet kit. I'm not sure if the dry kits even use a fpss.
                  <b>99 Camaro Z28 A4</b><br />R.I.P. 00 Firebird 3.8<br />14.89 @ 90, 2.03 60\'

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                  • #10
                    umm Direct port is the only way around this lol

                    a lean out usally is to less fuel and cause ping, ping breaks you pistons and give you gaskets hell. also when ping happens temp can reach 18,000* F !! ouch on the valves to.

                    I would say the Wet system is safer then the dry in a all a round kinda way. the MAF it somewhat proteced from a back fire
                    www.turbov6camaro.com
                    1997 3800 Series II Camaro
                    4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug:
                    7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod)
                    11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty

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                    • #11
                      Why start another thread?

                      http://www.camarov6.com/ubb/ultimate...c;f=3;t=001581

                      Go there
                      Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
                      nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
                      2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
                      2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

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