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UPDATE...so tonight i will be wiring everything..including the progressive controller..that will leave only my appointment in March for the NOSzle injector adapters..i'll bring the laptop to the garage tonight see about getting pics [img]smile.gif[/img]
1. There are 4 nuts holding the fuel rail down. Remove those Nuts.
2. Pull up on the fuel rail, the 6 injectors will pull out of the intake.
3. Put the NOSzle injector adapters on the bottom of the injectors.
4. Replace fuel rail (I would guess there is some sort of spacer to hold the fuel rail).
5. Cancel appointment at shop.
6. Let snow melt.
7. Test car.
If you want a quicker test, send the kit to Florida and I will test it for you. [img]smile.gif[/img]
eh..its a little more involved..and a PITA working under there..plus i want someone to yell at if it goes wrong lol..and we need to make spacers and all that..but the shop is handling that
wiring did NOT go well tonight..everything was hooked up correctly..i checked about a billion times..the controller took electric current for about 2 minutes before completely frying :( ..the instructions never called for a fuse..so i never put one in..that takes care of that
yeah, always use a fuse. even if it doesnt say it put one in. Your car audio should have tought you that but i guess just think of this as a learning experience.
2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
but why doesmy learning experience have to cost $250 :( ..oh well..i'll wire it regular through the relay for now..if i need the controller..i guess i'll get another one later..damnit!!..hehe
on fire?? lol ..actually i did that to my old celebrity in highschool trying to wire a stereo *poof*..i dont mind doing wiring (except when i blow up $250 parts)..i wired everything regular to the relay and will get some pics soon..i dont mess with fuel though..which is why im having the rail pulled by pros..are you talking about the map sensor?..i've double checked..theres more than enough clearance..spacers should be all good [img]smile.gif[/img]
EDIT: ok, n/m... i actually read more.. i thought u were doing a real direct port (aka drill/tap the intake). i guess the NOSzle system is ok. more of a NX fan myself. good luck.
Originally posted by LS what?: so.. ur putting a direct port on a v6.. and then its only 100 shot.. why? what can justify the cost of it? im STILL trying 2 figure u v6 guys out.
Us "V6 guys" do the same things to our cars that you do to your cars. Mod em and push em to the limits. While I myself love the sound and feel of an 8 (Who doesn't), and most my friends have 8's, I would just feel a lot better making a stock high 15 car and push it to better then 8 times. More of a challenge.
94 Firebird 3.4 - RIP<br />97 Firebird 3.8 - In the works
Originally posted by LS what?: EDIT: ok, n/m... i actually read more.. i thought u were doing a real direct port (aka drill/tap the intake). i guess the NOSzle system is ok. more of a NX fan myself. good luck.
1) it says right in my sig its a 125 shot
2) even if it was plumbed and cost a lot of money......because i can..i have the money and want to try something different..not to mention running a wet shot..especially over 100 on a V6 intake is risky due to back fires..not to mention its my daily driver too..therefor direct port is really ideal for a wet shot on a V6
3) because its not "plumbed" doesnt mean its not "real"..direct port is direct port..the concept is the same one way or another..spray nitrous and fuel together directly into each cylinder..price may change the exact design of the kit..but the kit type remains the same..correct me if im wrong..i am just one of those "V6 guys"
oh..and what can also justify the cost of it is my V6 eventually running faster than your 12.0..thanks for the luck ;)
anyways.....to prove how much faith i have in this new system..i..scott aka 1DangerousV6..just turned down a powerdyne for as cheap as i bought my last one for!..i gotta buy some more goodies anyway..SFCs..torque arm..id like to get a 1 pc driveshaft..but still!..gotta make sure im feeling ok hahaha [img]smile.gif[/img]
id sh*t myself if i pulled up to the slip house and saw an 11 second timeslip lol ..but my guess is deep in the 12s..around a 12.3 when im all done tuning etc..not 11s..over time i'll get a 12 bolt, build the tranny, increase to a 150 shot and its definitely possible then..it depends how the kit runs on my paticular application too..nobody knows how it will..besides James called that name first anyway lol..and he'll definitely get 11s soon..thats my guess anyway
Originally posted by 12secondv6: rksport LCAs, pan hard rod,poly tranny mount, weld pro stars on the rear wrapped in M/T ET streets
Get a TQ arm... and poly TQ arm mount... and sub frames
NOS will have a middle shot... like a 125..... jets are pretty much universal... the NOSzle kit may have specific jets for this system... but they will have different shot levels....
hey James (or anyone)..im looking at a 1 pc aluminum driveshaft..i know you have one on your car..and i know the 2 pc can break..did you get this for weight reduction/power?..or because at our power level this is NEEDED?..im looking at one i might buy tomorrow along with the Spohn adj. cross member mounted tq arm with loop..then eventually SFCs
Hi, everyone. We bought a 97 base model convertible Camaro and someone broke the motor ... Lights were blinking on the dash and that someone ignored the...
Still trying to find oil leak on my Camaro, it’s a tough one. I think it is the oil pressure sender myself. Leaking when raving and going into boost....
4 days ago
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