James..timed progressive controller?

[oil pan 4]

Is mixing wet and dry shots a good idea?
I never thought about it, only option I have for the Z is wet stages.

[1DangerousV6]

not really sure..i figure it would just be nitrous and fuel mixing like any other shot..of course..the only reason i would've been able to do this is because of the direct port kit..this frees up the intake for juice..i dont think i'd do it if i already had a wet shot going through the intake already..you cant run a dry kit on the Z cuz its not EFI right?

[DARK SDE '02]

I like the idea of the progressive controller as well but I think you're getting in over your head. Nobody has even tested/tuned a DP kit on our 3.8s if I'm not mistaken; I think you should get that down first then worry about extra goodies to run massive shots. With the DP you might not even need it to get into 12s like you said you wanted.

[1DangerousV6]

^ definitely..thats all i wanna do first [img]smile.gif[/img]

dont forget..half the reason i got the controller was not to descrease the ET but just to manage the torque a little ;) ..im starting with the smallest shot available with the kit..a 100 shot

BTW..so you're saying as far as you know.. NOBODY has EVER put a direct port system on a 3.8 Camaro??..as in id be the first one? (as far as anybody knows) ..i really woulda thought this woulda been done by now..just by standard plumbing (if you can even do that with our manifolds)

[ February 02, 2005, 12:14 PM: Message edited by: 1DangerousV6 ]

[arthansen]

This is what I would do.

Port for a 150 shot. Use the progressive controller to ramp from 75 hp shot to 150 hp shot. The timer would be scaled over 17 seconds. Have it come on 1 second after the WOT switch is hit (half way to the 60' mark). The shot would look like this:

Time(s) Shot
0 0
.5 0
1 75
2 80
3 85
4 90
5 95
6 100
7 105
8 110
9 115
10 120
11 125
12 130

So as you cross the finish line you are riding on a 130 shot. If you stayed on it for 4 more seconds, you would be at 150 shot (and off the end of the track).

Now, if that works and you want to go faster, scall it over 12 seconds so you end up with a 150 shot.

If you want more, scale it over 10 seconds so you are on a 150 shot from the 10 second mark until you cross the line at 11.5 seconds.

Should I keep going or does everyone get the idea.

This is for an auto, manual would have to be different.

DO NOT DO A WET SHOT AND A DRY SHOT! USE THE CONTROLLER (for a wet shot) LIKE IT WAS DESIGNED TO DO.

[1DangerousV6]

the only thing i dont understand is how scaling it over the whole run would make you run faster..because if you just timed it for a couple seconds to get traction..then you would be riding the whole way on a 100 shot or more..but if you time it over the whole run..sure half the time you are over a 100 shot..but half the time you're under??


also..i think it would HAVE to be done with the programmable controller..the time based one only allows you to progress up to 10 seconds..with the programmable one i could run a 100 shot the whole way..and then after 10 seconds or so have it increase to a 150

[ February 02, 2005, 02:24 PM: Message edited by: 1DangerousV6 ]

[AZ3.8Camaro]

If I am not mistaken, the controller functions by cycling the solenoids ON OFF ON OFF really fast.

All I can say is, make sure your using a backup N2O solenoid, that a lot of wear and tear.

[1DangerousV6]

yup..it uses pulses to turn them on and off really quickly..i definitely want to use a controller because of the torque increase involved..i think for now im just gonna stick with the time based controller just for traction off the line and a 125 shot

[1DangerousV6]

i just spoke to NOS tech who did NOT recommend progressing for long periods of time due to the wear on the solenoids..i think in order to have my personal perfect nitrous system i'd have to run a 2-stage setup..which i am not going anywhere near this year..i wanna toy with this and get it down perfect [img]smile.gif[/img] ..nobody even knows how this kit will work on a 3.8 yet

[12secondv6]

Well.... if you get the direct port.... in my mind... and the v6 world as we know it... you would be the first 4th gen V6 f body [img]smile.gif[/img]

If I was investing the money in a direct port..... here is what I would do:

Start at a 150 shot
NOS progressive controller
Start with a 100 shot off the line (keep in mind I am thinking of a REALLY sticky slick tire out back) and shortly it progresses up to the 150 shot level.

Single shot 150 wet shot.

No dry kit as a "top end kick".... 150 will be enough of a kick as it is! ;)

Timing would be an issue..... race gas only goes so far... 150 shot is going to need some timing yanked.

In time.... with maybe a hoosier quick time pro tire and VERY good drag friendly suspension... 125 off the line..... and 50 top end?

[1DangerousV6]

hmmmm...thanks alot for posting James..always gives me a lot to think about lol ..i've been debating in my mind whether or not to just jet it at a 150 shot (the jets included are 100, 150, 175)..i DEFINITELY like the idea of a 150 (controlled) ..plus with the direct port system i could easily supply the nitrous and fuel..i can pull timing with HP Tuners..but then the most important question again..do you think my engine/car could handle a 150 shot even progressively controlled??..in your last sentence there are you saying you may even go as high as a 175??

also..has anyone here ever sprayed a 150 wet shot with stock engine, tranny, diffy, etc?

[oil pan 4]

150 will be quite harsh on your engine.
With that much spary your looking at changing the spark plugs with every bottle fill up at least(to be safe).
That progressive controler just opens/closes the noids real fast. On a direct port I think you will realy feel that open/close action unless you set it so it is as fast as it can be.
On a injector infrount of the TB the progressive controler open/close wouldn't be felt as much.
You know that direct port hits a lot harder.
On my car I just have a new stock LG4 5.0L and a carb.
The 3 stage nitrous in the sig is for the Z28.
It is going to be a plate and direct port nitrous with Methanol as the enrichment fuel.
I will add a time delay box to stage 2 and 3. it is an easy up grade, basicly adding 2 more sets of relay contacts.
If the LG4 survives the 3 stage setup and tune I will swap it for a 383 stroker. Might sell it or keep it untill I have the 383's replacement built.
I think I know how to bulid a O2 sencor based cut off for nitrous or what ever.
I was also thinking about adding a fault shut off and hold in so I have to reset before I can spary again.

[1DangerousV6]

yeah your 3 stage setup is pretty sick..so even having forged internals..changing plugs every time would BLOW!

[T-Punk]

oh come on, f-bodies are the easiest car in the world to change plugs on ;)

[oil pan 4]

The max I want to go up to is 150hp.
Ok maybe 175.
When I torcher the LG4 with it will most likely be set for 100 or 125hp max.
The enrichment will be provided by Methanol.
I changed my plugs last time I went home on the Z.
My LG4, IROC is easy to change plugs on. I helped the guy on base that has the 1987 IROC with an L98 change his plugs last night and it was a PITA.
2 years difference in cars, huge difference in the amount of **** under the hood.
If have to say I was racing a honda civic I can spary off the line, stop at the 1/8 mile mark chang my plugs, spary and still beat them.
Methanol is different than gas. It is an idel enrichment fuel.
You have to burn a lot of it, it has an octaine of at least 118, it is cheap (for what I need it for), it burns cool, it lives in condisions that make gasoline detonate uncontrolablely in an engine, it has less surface tention than gas so it will atomize better, it cools a lot more than gas as it vaporizes.
Stupid ricers will here nitrous and methanol and think nitromethane.