The guy whose nitrous bottle blew up.... inside

[12secondv6]

http://www.healthyhome.net/nitrousexpress.htm

Came across it... figured it was something people might be interested in

[oil pan 4]

Where is the guy at CZ28.com that has:
"don't under estimate stupid people in large numbers"
in his sig when you need him.
Who’s fault, I think
guy who installed it > NX
First I would like to say there called burst disks, not blow off any thing. It's not a turbo.
WTF is the email from the chemical engineer about the burst disk not venting fast enough?
[img]graemlins/bs.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/bs.gif[/img]
The burst disk just didn't work or they were removed that is all there is to it, they didn't half work theres just no way.
We have an old piece of equipment called a hi-pac (high pressure air compressor) it has 2 releaf valves (1 built into the system, a back up on the air tank) and if those fail there is a burst disk that lets go at about 4200psi and it sounds like a shot gun blast when it goes [img]graemlins/rock.gif[/img] . I have seen them go. It lets all the air out no problem. Every air compressor used by the air force on the flight line has to have a burst disk.
Some times I have to rewire equipment to make it idiot proof (for the air craft crew chiefs) so they can't damage the equipment, them selves or the plane. These kits are not idiot proof and if they were they wouldn't be affordable and they would be to far complex for ricers to install.
If you don't wire it through the ignition system (key turn switch), like you should then it's on you [img]graemlins/twak.gif[/img] .
Any one ever look at my 3 stage nitrous drawing?
First off I was smart enough to post it on cardomain as a black and white monochrome bit map so it down loads real quick.
Second it is safty built on safty.
And soon I hope to be able to build a O2 safty switch so if the exhaust O2 goes to high it cuts off the spary.
I just need a trip to radio shack back home and a power supply.
NX is saying it wasn't installed right, and it wasn't.
There some thing called a "sequence of events" if you build or work on electrical stuff then you will know it and that electrical systems are built upon it.
If you want to build a system that can heat the bottle with no temp/pressure switch and can do so with out the car being on then go for it.
I saw a gripe about the nitrous companies not providing fuel pressure safety switches (a topic talked about here many times). You should know what your are getting into, fully in and out.
And if you don't then [img]graemlins/twak.gif[/img] .
IMO nitrous is not for beginners. If you know nothing about engines, wiring stuff up or have no idea how this stuff even works don't freaking do it.
Oh great all his pics are bit maps, so every pic is like 2Mb, what a tard [img]graemlins/rant.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/slap.gif[/img] . These pics are taking so long to down load, on my slow *** connection. grrrrrr.
Lets say that's why the air force (even the DOD)has a clue, they test things like this, all the way to failure and if the company makes a crappie product they will get there a$$es sued off by the government.
It sounds like that guy that had his car blow up said it was cause of the bottle, a chemical guy trying to say the burst disk half failed and NX is saying it was installed wrong. It (burst disk) may have failed, there not hard to test at all, the companys that make them should be testing them. If there not and some one gets hurt or some one get there stuff damaged then the company that made the burst disk need to get there a$$ sued off. Last time I checked NX dosen't make burst disks.

[Snuffalofogus]

thats what they get for putting nitrous on a MAXIMA

[T-Punk]

This is one of those reasons i chose FI over N20. I'm scared as hell something like that would happen to me.

[12secondv6]

Nitrous > FI [img]tongue.gif[/img]

[Loochy88]

Originally posted by 12secondv6:
Nitrous > FI [img]tongue.gif[/img]

as far as creating really cool expolsions go i guess.

i'd hate to see what would happen if the huge air compressor in our garage blew like that.

[Jerriko]

Originally posted by T-Punk:
This is one of those reasons i chose FI over N20. I'm scared as hell something like that would happen to me.

It's not that bad. Just don't wire your bottle heater DIRECTLY to the battery and leave the heater on. I was told when that happened they installed a second burst disk that messed up the first one.

[Jerriko]

Hey, oilpan, you said this,
"And soon I hope to be able to build a O2 safty switch so if the exhaust O2 goes to high it cuts off the spary."

Why would you want to cut the nitrous when you have a rich fuel reading? The higher the circuit on the o2 circuit, the richer the air/fuel ratio is.

[arthansen]

I think he means the A/F ratio goes too high (meaning lean).

NX makes a progressive contrroller that can be hooked up to your WBO2 sensor and will cut the nitrous if the A/F ratio goes too high. Just something to think about.

[Jerriko]

Originally posted by arthansen:
I think he means the A/F ratio goes too high (meaning lean).

NX makes a progressive contrroller that can be hooked up to your WBO2 sensor and will cut the nitrous if the A/F ratio goes too high. Just something to think about.

Ok, fair enough.

[oil pan 4]

I ment to many O2 molcules floating around will cut it off.
That is why I was asking if any one knew of any 120 volt nitrous noids.
The main thing I'm missing is list of what voltage = what A/F.
It would be simple to build, I have all of the stuff but the nitrous noids.
I would need a 5 volt reg, an assortment of resistors, ajustable resistors (so I can set a A/F cut off) a comparator and some transistors to build some thing that looks a little like a fuel injector driver to work the noids. And some LED's to make it look cool.
I was going to try and make my set up with out relays and go 100% solid state.

[12secondv6]

If you do it..... keep us updated.

[oil pan 4]

Well I searched and found a 5 page PDF doc. with every thing O2. Like engeneering type stuff.
It's going to be for the carbed Z28 so it will be running 13-14 to 1 at it's leanest. With all the data I looked over, I think I will need a heated O2 for best results.
Different temps give different voltages and best I figueded any thing below .8 volts and it should cut off. That way my car can be safe.
The O2 voitage will be well over .8v on the rich side of stoichiometric (I call it "14.7:1 plus" for more fuel and voltage from the sencor) and it will fall to about .2v if it goes to the lean side of stoichiometric (just "lean" for this).
I didn't know much about O2 voltages before this, I was hopeing it would be more like 2volts but it shouldn't be much of a problem.

[12secondv6]

Loads of info out there..... take time... research things...