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    I'm contemplating spraying the car... I need someone who i can email back and forth with when i have questions. I need someone who is reliable, and knowledgeable to answer questions and such. I want to try my hardest NOT to blow my engine...but i'm on a limited budget. If anyone is insterested in being my right hand man... email me here...

    fbc-jessica@fbodycentral.com
    ~Jessica~<br />Office Manager @ <a href=\"http://www.fbodycentral.com\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.fbodycentral.com</a> <br />2001 Firebird GT NBM, A4<br /> <a href=\"http://fbodyqueen.tripod.com/\" target=\"_blank\">http://fbodyqueen.tripod.com/<

  • #2
    All I can say is that if every thing is done RIGHT and you do the proper research it will be the funniest thing you've done to the car so far. Also if done correctly you run very little risk to messing up the motor. Good Luck
    Why hop up a V6, cuz $724 a month for insurance is a little steep.

    Comment


    • #3
      you should be fine if you take all the precautions
      bottle heater, window switch, wot switch etc. You might want to get on clubgp.com and find some supercharged guys that run nitrous.. they'll be able to tell you the difference between spraying with FI and without it.. Shirl also has a supercharger and she sprays. You have a lot of very tallented people at your fingertips, they'll get you up and running.
      Mystic Teal Metallic
      ET:15.1 NA 14.3@96 MPH 75 Dry Shot

      Comment


      • #4
        I can't say I will be super reliable with emailing back ASAP, but I will always email back.
        You can always post in the forum and we will answer pretty quickly.
        1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
        1997 Dodge Viper GTS

        Comment


        • #5
          Ok first question... what are the essentials will need if i already a basic kit. I have 600 dollars to spend.

          And as far as shirl goes, i'll believe it when i see it.

          oh yeah and for the record i'm not FI. I'm bone stock.
          ~Jessica~<br />Office Manager @ <a href=\"http://www.fbodycentral.com\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.fbodycentral.com</a> <br />2001 Firebird GT NBM, A4<br /> <a href=\"http://fbodyqueen.tripod.com/\" target=\"_blank\">http://fbodyqueen.tripod.com/<

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          • #6
            you have to be careful wiht nitrous, you to start with a small shot like a 50 shot and then move up from there. if your not crazy i wouldn't go over a 75 shot. even then your going to have to most likey get a new fuel system.
            WAWA-A-HOLIC

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by kristen:
              you have to be careful wiht nitrous, you to start with a small shot like a 50 shot and then move up from there. if your not crazy i wouldn't go over a 75 shot. even then your going to have to most likey get a new fuel system.
              This much i know... won't go more than a 75 until after i build the motor, i'm not a retard.

              Question still open for answers.
              ~Jessica~<br />Office Manager @ <a href=\"http://www.fbodycentral.com\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.fbodycentral.com</a> <br />2001 Firebird GT NBM, A4<br /> <a href=\"http://fbodyqueen.tripod.com/\" target=\"_blank\">http://fbodyqueen.tripod.com/<

              Comment


              • #8
                the basics you'll be looking for in a kit are some safety features..this is why i always recommend NOS kit 5175..it comes with a wide open throttle switch, fuel pressure safety switch..and a blow down tube..which is required for track use anyway..all you'll need is a bottle heater and a pressure gauge..maybe a window switch too..but i wouldnt bother with one on a dry kit..i can answer any more questions you have..i know all the rules..just dont always play by them hehe ;)
                <b>12 SECOND DUAL STAGE DRY NITROUS POWERED 98 A4 V6 CAMARO<br /><a href=\"http://www.mysickcamaro.50megs.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.MySickCamaro.50megs.com</a><br />Best ET: 12.82@103<br />Best MPH: 104.7<br />Best 60\': 1.75 - Stock TC</b><br /> </font><blockquote><font size=\"1\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">quote:</font><hr /><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">Originally posted by Shodown:<br /><strong>1DV6 runs 12\'s...enough said. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size=\"2\" face=\"Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif\">

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                • #9
                  These will come with most kits:

                  Master Arming Switch - Prevents nitrous use when not wanted.

                  Fuel Pressure Safety Switch (FPSS) - Disables nitrous system if fuel pressure drops.

                  Wide Open Throttle (WOT) Switch - Allows the nitrous system to only be activated at WOT to prevent engine damage.

                  Blow Down Tube - In case of overpressuring the tank, the blow down tube routes the nitrous outside of the car. This is a driver safety feature.

                  These I recommend:
                  Window Switch - This will activate the nitrous at a certain RPM and deactivate it at another. Coupled with the WOT switch, gaurantees proper activation. Prevents lean condition (damage) if the rev or speed limiter is hit. Prevents early activation and possible engine damage. (around $100)

                  Fuel Pump - A dry kit, whilst easier to setup, and safer against backfires, will most likely shorten the life of your fuel pump. If you have a Fuel pressure safetey switch, you will be safe in case your pump does start to fail. A new WALBRO 255lph in tank pump can be had for around $100, and will work for years with your nitrous kit.

                  With the entire above setup, you will have a reliable, safe, and almost automated setup. This results in the safest possible use on your car, great track results, and will last for a long time.

                  These can be used, but I don't recommend them.
                  Momentary Switch - Allows total human control over the nitrous. Only sprays when button is pushed. Needless to say, humans aren't as quick or reliable as computers.

                  The NOS 5175 Kit is a very reliable, well designed kit. It comes with a 10lb bottle, jetted at 85 HP and is adjustable in either direction.
                  Used kits are commonly found for $300.
                  New ones are at least $500.
                  1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
                  1997 Dodge Viper GTS

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    posted by Jessica:
                    And as far as shirl goes, i'll believe it when i see it.
                    OK, here goes. Let's see... throw a 200 shot on there, dry kit... don't add a fuel pump or anything. Wait for BOOOOM!!!! Cuz that's what you have coming, girly... [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img]

                    [ September 20, 2005, 02:34 PM: Message edited by: Shirl ]
                    2004 CE Corvette 10.86@132mph
                    1996 Supercharged/Nitrous Camaro RS (For Sale)
                    2011 Cadillac CTS-V
                    2011 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT-P
                    2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS

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                    • #11
                      I would get a wet kit, start out with a 50 shot and you will be safe up to a 90 shot on a stock fuel pump.. You can geta walbro 255 pump for 110.00.. I was spraying on my stock motor for 2 years and put 65 bottles through it.. Never had any problems.. I had no safty switch or any window switch.. I just armed the system and floored it and if I missed a gear My intake hose made of dryer hose would blow.. 125 shot is the $hit!!.. To keep my motor lasting I changed my oil and fuel filter every 2 months and my plugs every 3-6 months depending on how many bottles I put through it with the plugs in it.. I have a Compucar Wet kit.. They are 450.00 new and has a liftime warrenty on all the parts.. Get a bottle warmer.. But yeah if you have any questions you can email me.. firechicken1998@hotmail.com
                      Jeff ..
                      1998 Firebird.. Built 3.8 with a 125 shot.. 370rwhp,415rwtq.. stock tune!! sold

                      2002 WS6 T/A.. Bolt ins..448rwhp
                      2009 G8 GT.. Vararam intake, GXP axleback
                      1998 Corvette.. Vararam intake, Ti axleback
                      http://www.fquick.com/slow-v6

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Shirl:
                        </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />posted by Jessica:
                        And as far as shirl goes, i'll believe it when i see it.
                        OK, here goes. Let's see... throw a 200 shot on there, dry kit... don't add a fuel pump or anything. Wait for BOOOOM!!!! Cuz that's what you have coming, girly... [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] </font>[/QUOTE]SO because she doesn't Believe you(Most don't, Just won't say it), You try to be a smart A$$ and not help hmmm... that shows you character.

                        Jess, I would go with a Wet kit because one you get the dry kit and the fuel pump plus the install it will cost about the same if not more and you should be able to make more power with the wet kit.
                        2005 Cavalier LS Sport M5<br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/firefighter8615\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/firefighter8615</a>

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          (Some previous posts are not worth my time addressing) Anyway!

                          Jess, my wet kit is sitting there collecting dust - and you know as well as I do that my car isn't going to be needing it for quite some time. :( (How's it doing anyway? *sigh*)

                          I think the kit is missing a safety switch of some kind (can't remember right now), and there's a second fuel pump there too - Three bolts to install, clips right into the fuel line. If you can get your hands on a spare LS1 power ring, it might work well with the lid we fabed last year. - Or you could spray through that lid (also very popular.)

                          I know the guys won't let you do something to hurt your car.

                          Come on, it would be nice to have someone to stage in the PA class... other than Red Dragon!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by fbirdgt01:
                            </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by kristen:
                            you have to be careful wiht nitrous, you to start with a small shot like a 50 shot and then move up from there. if your not crazy i wouldn't go over a 75 shot. even then your going to have to most likey get a new fuel system.
                            This much i know... won't go more than a 75 until after i build the motor, i'm not a retard.

                            Question still open for answers.
                            </font>[/QUOTE]what is your problem, i was just given the same input that i give to everyone else on here from personal exper. i hope that you have luck with your nitrous and just so you know i have seen shirls camaro, very nice car by the way. and yes she is running a super and nitrous. (shirl us girls have to stay together i guess)

                            i'm not starting a fight so if you need any help with anything fell free to email at daubert19xxx@yahoo.com
                            WAWA-A-HOLIC

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Shirl:
                              </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />posted by Jessica:
                              And as far as shirl goes, i'll believe it when i see it.
                              OK, here goes. Let's see... throw a 200 shot on there, dry kit... don't add a fuel pump or anything. Wait for BOOOOM!!!! Cuz that's what you have coming, girly... [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] </font>[/QUOTE]And you really honestly think anyone but maybe 2 members on this board think you're legit? Come on....really. I'm not gonna waste my time here, but ummm, if you want to be taken seriously, come down to the track days we have no more then 2 hours away from you, and race once. Then maybe we'll all believe it. In fact, attendance ratings might go up if you ACTUALLY showed.

                              Kristen i wasn't being a meanie, just stating that i needed to know more in depth details. To be honest i know more about ls1/lt1/and L98's than i know about my "wittle v6." I just wanted some personal experience on what people have done in the past that have worked or failed.

                              I have a wet kit right now, it's used so i have to do an inventory of it, and find out what's what.

                              Also, have a LSD waiting to put in, and a convertor in the works. My main concern is I want to know the MAJOR things NOT to leave out, so i don't blow the motor on the first 5 sprays. I'm getting 50 shot jets, 75 shot jets, and 100 shot jets. Starting lightly on the 50 for basics, then test and tune with 75, and then after i order internals, i'll up to the 100.

                              The real reason i'm so concerned about blowing the motor is because i want all numbers to match for the future owner because it is #49 of under 1000 made. :D
                              ~Jessica~<br />Office Manager @ <a href=\"http://www.fbodycentral.com\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.fbodycentral.com</a> <br />2001 Firebird GT NBM, A4<br /> <a href=\"http://fbodyqueen.tripod.com/\" target=\"_blank\">http://fbodyqueen.tripod.com/<

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