Nitrous setup w/ part 5175

[Jared 3870]

All right. So for the last month i have been swaying back and forth bewteen a camshaft or a nitrous setup. I think i am starting to lean more towards nitrous. This is the setup i have in mind.

NOS - 5175 kit, 75 dry shot
FPSS included in kit
MSD inline fuel pump (will boost stock pumps output basically, correct?)
Nitrous pressure and fuel pressure gauges in the a-pillar
WOT switch
window switch
Perhaps bottle heater and remote bottle opener, depending on install location.
Colder NGK plugs

As far at installation goes, ive read that removing the mass airflow sensor screen helps, and installing the nozzle closer to the MAF sensor produces a richer mixture, helping to prevent leaning out, correct?

The car is a 97 A4 w/ slp cold air, pacesetter headers, 3" exhaust w/ highflow cat, hooker aerochamber muffler. Aluminum driveshaft, Zex-torsen limited slip, 3.42s.. thats most of it i think. (Its got LS1 brakes to haul my butt to a stop from that 15.5 quarter mile!)

Basically i want to know if this setup should be fairly safe. The other threads ive read say it should be. motor has 116k. any other parts/thoughts would be appreciated. thanks

[Shodown]

Re: Nitrous setup w/ part 5175

DO NOT remove the MAF screen!!! Not on the 97-98 years cuz the angled throttle body needs the screen there. I tried removing mine and it ran like $hit.

Dont place the nozzle too close to the MAF cuz you could damage it, put it about 6 inches away.

Gap those NGK TR6's at .035 too.

Other than that I think you are ready to go. What shot size you planning on?

[RadRacer]

Re: Nitrous setup w/ part 5175

Other than that I think you are ready to go. What shot size you planning on?

He said 75 shot. Does he need the WOT switch and window switch? And you shouldn't need a new fuel pump for 75 shot. Bottle heater, blanket, and remote opener are a must IMO. The heater and blanket keep the bottle at the right pressure, so you spray just right, and the opener makes it alot easier than having to run to the back (or where ever you put the bottle) and open it. You don't want to leave it open while normal driving, so if you want to use it, you gotta jump out and turn it on if you don't have a remote opener. And, this is just what I've learned. I don't have Nos (not yet), but I've done alot of reading on it.

[Jared 3870]

Re: Nitrous setup w/ part 5175

the main reason i was gonna get an inline pump was just to be SURE that the mixture wouldn't go lean. The last thing i want is for my motor to fry. Same reason for thinking of getting a WOT switch and a window switch. Just to be positive i couldn't screw it. And if i had the pump someday i could up to teh 100 shot if i wanted to.

And what are your thoughts on a nitrous pressure gauge, electric vs mechanical. seeing as how it would be mounted inside the car i should probably go with electric so that i dont have a live nitrous line inside the cabin. but mechanical gauges are only like 75 bucks at summit. electric are 200.

[ssms5411]

Re: Nitrous setup w/ part 5175

The WOT switch is included in the 5175 kit, ANd a window switch is also a good idea, safety wise. If possible I would do a intank walbro 255 but depending on your shot size you might get away with no fuel upgrades. Yes at least run 91 octane and also watch your KR on a scanner if you don't already have one.

[Shodown]

Re: Nitrous setup w/ part 5175

I didnt see that he had mentioned his shot size :o My bad.

You dont absolutely NEED an aftermarket pump for a 75 but if you have one then you have the option of upping the shot without worry of leaning out.

Yes, you need a WOT switch with a window switch. Most window swithces hook up to the negative side of the WOT switch so the nitrous will only hit at WOT and >3000 rpm which is what is desired anyhow, does 2 things at once :). Running a window switch without a WOT switch is more dangerous than a running a WOT by itself without a window swich.

No WOT or window sw. = catastrophic
Winow sw only = very bad
WOT only = risky, but lots of people have do this and dont have problems
WOT + window sw. = fail safe (as possible) :tup:

[Shodown]

Re: Nitrous setup w/ part 5175

Just for clarrification, only running a window switch w/o a WOT switch is dangerous because nitrous is designed to be used when at and only at WOT. So if you dont have a WOT switch but you do have a window sw and the juice is armed then you hit 3000 rpms while not at WOT, thats when you will have problems.

This is bad becuase the car isnt getting enough fuel into the cylinders without being at WOT. You'll run lean.

[RadRacer]

Re: Nitrous setup w/ part 5175

Just for clarrification, only running a window switch w/o a WOT switch is dangerous because nitrous is designed to be used when at and only at WOT. So if you dont have a WOT switch but you do have a window sw and the juice is armed then you hit 3000 rpms while not at WOT, thats when you will have problems.

This is bad becuase the car isnt getting enough fuel into the cylinders without being at WOT. You'll run lean.

OK. Makes sense to me. I thought about it abit after I posted and thought, with-out it, they could sit at 3000RMP and keep spraying, which you don't want. So yeah, go WOT and window. As far as gauges come, I'd prefer electric. I'm sure mechanical are probably more precise since they're hooked right up to the feed, but electrical shouldn't be off by much, if any, and you don't have the live line running into the car (like you said). Mechanical are cheaper, but I'd go electric, just to be abit safer.

[Shodown]

Re: Nitrous setup w/ part 5175

Electric gauges these days are any bit as accurate as mechanical. I found that out on the dyno cuz the tuner had a mech hooked up as well as my electrical and they were perfectly insync with each other. Elec gauges better be accurate cuz they are $200!!!

DO NOT put mechanical guages on the pillar inside the cars, especially fuel!! If something breaks it will leak right into the car and all over the driver and if there is a fire...well you can guess what can/wil happen.

No track in the U.S. will let you race there if you have mech gauges in the car too becuase its a safety issue. :)

[97rs4life]

Re: Nitrous setup w/ part 5175

I have all electric for mine. Work great and are accurate.

[Jared 3870]

Re: Nitrous setup w/ part 5175

so lets say this whole project will run me around a 1000 dollars. thats a lot of hours of work at 7 dollars an hour. i have the money to do it no problem but damn...

[Shodown]

Re: Nitrous setup w/ part 5175

I ended up spending about $1100 I think.

It takes money to go fast my friend! Well safely anythow :D

[Jared 3870]

Re: Nitrous setup w/ part 5175

what should i check out on the motor to make sure its entirely sound before i spray it? and you think i would be okay with the stock fuel pump on a 75 shot like everyone says. If i decide to bump to a 100 get the MSD pump then? damn.. 400 dollars for 2 gauges

[Shodown]

Re: Nitrous setup w/ part 5175

what should i check out on the motor to make sure its entirely sound before i spray it? and you think i would be okay with the stock fuel pump on a 75 shot like everyone says. If i decide to bump to a 100 get the MSD pump then?

I compression tested, leak down tested and had a mechanic check my car out before spraying. Most people dont do a comp or leak down test they just take it to a mechanic and have them take a look at it. A dyno tune can make a HUGE differece too, it go me another 15 hp :rock:

Stock pump on a 75 will be fine and an MSD inline pump will do fine on a 100.

damn.. 400 dollars for 2 gauges

ebay is your friend :D :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUTOM...spagenameZWDVW

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUTOM...spagenameZWDVW

I got mine from ebay.

[White97Bird]

Re: Nitrous setup w/ part 5175

I have a question to add to this. Everyone talks about needing to upgrade the fuel pump to bump it up to the 100 shot, but what about the injectors would those need to be upgraded as well?