Question for some of those that have tuning experience here.
So I tried a couple of searches on here and didn't come up with anything, so here's my question- On a cable driven L36, does it need to see a full 5 volts to reach 100% FE? I'm curious, as I'm trying to do some more tuning work on the throttle body itself before I get into actual ECM tuning. If it needs to see a full 5 volts to reach 100%, then my goal is to rework the throttle body so that it will hit 100% at WOT as opposed to just trying to trick the computer. The biggest thing I've noticed with mine is that while it's set at 0.5V at idle, and even with some modification done to allow more throttle opening, it still only hits 4V at WOT with a full 5V reference signal.
As of right now, I've cut out the stand around the MAF and filled/smoothed the pocket just before the blade. I've also ported the bore, radiused the transitions, knife-edged the blade, and cut down the shaft and screws. The car definitely feels stronger through acceleration, but I know that there has to be a little more in it with just a little more work. I do intend to at some point take the upper and lower plenums off and play with some porting work on them, possibly even some decking and other little tricks. So I'd like to make sure that when I start getting into changing the tuning in the future that the computer will allow me to take full advantage of the work.
I do know that the 04 GTO like mine can have similar problems with reading full voltage at WOT, and thus create tuning problems which can be remedied by tweaking the throttle body. So if I need to do some more tweaking to allow more rotation of the shaft to get the full 5V, then I'm certainly up for the challenge.
Mostly this is just a kind of science experiment for me, something to play with in my downtime. And it's certainly fun to make the Mustang GT guys scratch their heads at how a nearly stock V6/A4 Firebird was able to keep up with or pull slightly ahead of them.
So I tried a couple of searches on here and didn't come up with anything, so here's my question- On a cable driven L36, does it need to see a full 5 volts to reach 100% FE? I'm curious, as I'm trying to do some more tuning work on the throttle body itself before I get into actual ECM tuning. If it needs to see a full 5 volts to reach 100%, then my goal is to rework the throttle body so that it will hit 100% at WOT as opposed to just trying to trick the computer. The biggest thing I've noticed with mine is that while it's set at 0.5V at idle, and even with some modification done to allow more throttle opening, it still only hits 4V at WOT with a full 5V reference signal.
As of right now, I've cut out the stand around the MAF and filled/smoothed the pocket just before the blade. I've also ported the bore, radiused the transitions, knife-edged the blade, and cut down the shaft and screws. The car definitely feels stronger through acceleration, but I know that there has to be a little more in it with just a little more work. I do intend to at some point take the upper and lower plenums off and play with some porting work on them, possibly even some decking and other little tricks. So I'd like to make sure that when I start getting into changing the tuning in the future that the computer will allow me to take full advantage of the work.
I do know that the 04 GTO like mine can have similar problems with reading full voltage at WOT, and thus create tuning problems which can be remedied by tweaking the throttle body. So if I need to do some more tweaking to allow more rotation of the shaft to get the full 5V, then I'm certainly up for the challenge.
Mostly this is just a kind of science experiment for me, something to play with in my downtime. And it's certainly fun to make the Mustang GT guys scratch their heads at how a nearly stock V6/A4 Firebird was able to keep up with or pull slightly ahead of them.
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