Chevy 3.8 V-6 help? - FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com Message Board

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Chevy 3.8 V-6 help?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Re: Chevy 3.8 V-6 help?

    CDNFB, I hear what you are saying about the mechanical iac. Strangely enough, the engine runs with it installed. At start up I can see the pintle valve open up a little on it's own allowing just enough air in to get the engine started. At that point with a little help by me rotating the throttle plate for a few minutes, the engine then idles on it's own. Although hard to detect, the pintle must be in the open position just enough allowing the engine to run. Then when I rotate the throttle plate, the rpm does go up and I can see the pintle valve moving in and out on it's own. As mentioned previously I have tried 3 different springs, all with different spring tension. So far, the one that I have installed right now appears to give me the best engine performance. It's not perfect or even good for that matter, however, it is just good enough to allow the engine to run. After a few minutes I guess the PCM starts to make adjustments like you said. Then I'm able to get good rev's and high rpm's with a strong response. With that said, I don't think that the timing is off. I'm not getting any back firing or anything like that. Besides that, the engine is a brand new rebuilt. I don't think the timing would be off with a brand new rebuilt engine. I do believe like you said, that I may have problems with the iac wiring. That is why I will be testing the original iac valve in the manner mentioned in my previous posting. This should then confirm what is going on. I was planning on getting that done some time today. I only get a non response from the throttle plate not being able to rev up the engine at all, when the original iac valve freezs up. With that said, is it freezing up because of eletrical problems, that is what I will find out shortly. I will get back to you all with the results. I'll also check out the thread about the person who has similar problems after tapping into his TPS wiring. Thank you for your support. It is greatly appreciated, Tommy.
    Last edited by 3.8L Strong; 07-04-2007, 02:44 PM.

    Comment


    • #17
      Re: Chevy 3.8 V-6 help?

      any luck

      Comment


      • #18
        Re: Chevy 3.8 V-6 help?

        OK, I got the original Iac valve mounted on a bracket away from the engine heat. It's hooked up to the wire connector which runs to the computer, but not installed on the intake manifold. I have the mechanical iac valve installed on the intake. I started up the engine and was waiting for it to come up to the normal operating temperature which is around 195 degrees. In the process of waiting, I kept touching the original iac valve monitoring how hot it was getting. It only took a few minutes for it to get hot. The engine was only at 150 degrees and the iac was hot, almost to where I could not touch it. I let the engine run a bit longer. The engine did not even get to 180 degrees and the iac valve was hot to where I could no longer touch it with my fingers. I then shut down the engine. I then changed the wiring configuration. The GM Camaro repair manual shows one wiring configuration for the 96-98 Camaro's with a 3.8 engine. The Alldata diagram for the 95-97 Camaro's with a 3.8 engine shows the exact same wiring configuration. Alldata also shows a different wiring configuration for a 98 Camaro with a 3.8 engine. This is the one that I was using. This is the one that was heating up the iac valve. So, I then switched the wiring configuration to the one from the GM Camaro repair manual for the 96-98 Camaro's with the 3.8 engine. With this wiring configuration the iac valve still gets hot, but not as hot when using the other wiring configuration. Remember, this is with the iac removed and away from the heat of the intake manifold. So, what is going to happen when I reinstall it on the intake. It's obviously going to get much hotter installed on the intake manifold. This has been the problem, when the iac valve reaches a certain temperature, the pintle valve freezes up causing the engine to run bad and then I'll get no response at the throttle plate. I have taken a video of the iac troubleshooting process which I just spoke of. As soon as I can get it on a disk, I will post a link here, to where it can be viewed from somewhere on one of the internet sites where people post their video's. Does anyone know of a favorite website to post this type of video? I know that some people feel that the engine would not run with the mechanical iac valve installed. I assure you, it runs and runs quite well as you will see when you view the video. I'm able to get good revs and high rpms with it installed. You will notice both pintles from both the original iac and the mechanical iac valves moving making adjustments when ever I work the throttle plate. It's unreal! By the way, I have modified the mechanical iac valve even further to make sure that there are no vacuum leaks. You can view it by clicking on this link:
        http://www.mypicshare.com/jpwj7m1spic.html Any suggestions or comments. Thank you for your support, Tommy.
        Last edited by 3.8L Strong; 07-07-2007, 11:32 PM.

        Comment

        Latest Topics

        Collapse

        There are no results that meet this criteria.

        FORUM SPONSORS

        Collapse
        Working...
        X