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racetronix makes a very attractive kit. I haven't had a problem with it at all. I also got the redundant wiring they advertise too. That's a long story as to why I have that, but anyways.. They make a very very nice product.
I think so, but I don't know about series III motors.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Sent them a email, hopefully I will here back from them soon. I really need those larger injectors before I can go up to 100 shot. I ran at the drags yesterday(Saturday) and at one time I hit around 91% injector duty. Most of the time it hangs around 75 to 80, but a few times it went above 80%.
Plus, I'm having problems with my LTFT's wanting to hang at 19.5... I have a leak on my exhaust on the driver side, where the Y-pipe hooks to the header. I'm going to try and find some exhaust putty to feel in the small leak, hope it will fix it. Not for certain if that's what is causing the LTFT's to run high. It's strange. I can reset the fuel trims and it will take sometimes about 3 good days before the SES light will kick, and sometimes it only takes a day.
Does anyone know what would my the LTFT's go high. I have checked over and over, on my tune, and I cannot find anything that would cause it. Plus when I was running, at the drags, I would look up at my wide band from time to time, and I was hitting in the 11's for AFR when running nitrous, and on my scan I was staying at 19.5 with the LTFT's... I'm a little confused....
If you can't get those hit me up with a PM and I'll see if I have my extra set. I use copper spray sealant on my flanges and use copper flanges and it cured any exhaust leak I had. Looks like the 36lbers will work good for your setup keeping you down to the 40-50% duty cylce most likey.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Well, they emailed me back, was pretty quick :) They said they would work, and they had the attachments to fit them, so I would not need to splice the wires. So, I emailed them back letting them know I'll take them :)
I was wondering about the copper sealant if it would hold up to the header temps. I'm using stock metal gaskets, the only gaskets I could find that was metal and would fit my CIA headers. The ones CIA has are paper, and they don't last long, before the blow out. The stock metal gaskets I got from Advance Auto parts work great, except one of the holes that a bolt goes through, is a little big, and has now expanded into a little bigger hole. I'll try the copper gasket, since it's rated to 700 degrees I think, and see what happens. I was looking last night at some exhaust putty, don't know who that stuff works, but I will try the copper stuff first.
Great to hear about the injectors, I use the copper sealant on my header gaskets and all my 3 bolt header flanges and it works very well, just spray them front and back on a close hanger let them sit 15-20 min. then install. Used them on my felpro header gaskets ,sealed them up great. If you can get copper gaskets for flanges they will work outstanding with the copper spray just torque them down real good evenly. Good luck
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Your LTFT are the PCM trying to keep the part throttle AFR at 14.7:1. They do affect the WOT AFR because if the PCM is adding or removing fuel when it goes into PE mode, it adds or subtracts the percentage of fuel it was in closed loop. It means you need to tune the MAF table.
Oh ok. I read that on turbov6's site, but I figured that was for super and turbo charged only. So should I just times the charts by two and go from there? What is the best steps on figuring the best cell numbers?
Also, should I set one tune different nitrous and one for regular driving? Or when I change the MAF tune, should it be good for both regular driving and running nitrous.
Also, I just changed my spark plugs today, since I have not changed them in about a year and 1/2, and I just ran some pretty hard runs at the drags yesterday. The gap had changed to around .37 to .40 on all plugs. Gap was .35 on fresh ones. I'll try and take some pics of them and post them a little later.
Also, if you would like to see one of my tune files, let me know and I'll post them. I've been removing timing from the spark plug advance, since I was getting KR in places, even in normal driving. My tune is not stock, I started out working with a mail order tune I had got from Western tune or something like that. I've changed several things.
On my wideband, currently normal driving, it hangs between 14.7 and 15.1 sometimes 14.5. When I ran my nitrous the other day it was going down to mid 11's. Although, I did at some octane booster to increase it up 10 points, or well 1 true point in octane rating. So i was running around 94 to 95 octane yesterday, because I added some on Thursday for drag racing.
Just follow turbo's directions for tuning the MAF. 11:1 is good while your on the bottle. The MAF table should be the same on or off of the bottle, You might want a tune with less timing in it for the bottle. You do want the LTFT as close to zero as posibile while driving around.
Quick update on my progress... Well, I haven't tuned anymore, since I found my header to Y-pipe exhaust leaks, just fixed those today, and posted a post in the exhaust section on it. I did receive the 36lb injectors, now getting ready to buy the walbro 255 fuel pump. :)
Well, another quick update. Got the injectors and the walbro fuel pump. Looking to install it sometime in July, going to take a week vacation to make sure I have time to get everything installed and hopefully get things tuned in. :D
Also, I just removed the EGR from the car fully today. I had it fixed with a small air filter on the exhaust end. I decided to remove it fully from the system, and after doing some scans, think I've fixed the LTFT issue with them running lean during driving ;) The LTFT's have been fine during woot, but I'm guessing the extra un-sensored air coming in through the EGR, was enough to through the LTFT's a little lean from time to time during regular driving. Even though my car runs around 14.5 to 15 on the wideband gauge durning regular driving. Also, as posted above, the exhaust leak was throwing stuff off as well, so hopefully I have all leaks and problems fixed....
On the EGR removal, I should be able to add some of my timing back that I have taken away, since the EGR was pulling in the un-sensor cool air. Also, the EGR was the loud ticking noise I was hearing other than the small header to Y-pipe gasket leaks. Only thing I hear now, are the injectors, engine, transmission, rear gears and of coarse exhaust. :)
Also, a side note. I can tell a nice difference in normal car driving since I removed the EGR. EGR removal a big thumbs up :D Doesn't do anything for WOT, but regular driving a nice difference, however I would not suggest it unless you run high octane, i run 93 all the time, plus I have HP Tuners to help remove or add timing. Removing the EGR and running with 87 octance can give you a chance of running lean, just a quick FYI, for those who are wondering.
I'll post more when I get 36lb injectors and walbro installed.
Thanks for the reply. Yeah, they came with that I will swap when I install. The fuel rail is a new one on me. I haven't read or heard anything about that. So, where does it need to be shortened at, and is there a write up on that process of the install?
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