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If it is cliping either not big enough power cable or the amp is wired up wrong and won't handle how it is set up ,so it goes into protection mode because of the ohm load.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
i have the 8 guage rokford fosgate wirign kit, i think it was the infinity website it said that it was reccommende gauge. remote and ground are in there correct place.
2000 Firebird- Intake, Pacesetters, !cat, full 2.5 to flowcrapster, 1.9 rockers, LS6 springs and Intense modded retainers, WS6 speedlines, T/A bumpers and hatch, 5 spd swapped, SOON TO BE nitrous'd and cammed.
Its suppose to be bridged at 4 oms for the max power according to the link you posted to it, thats why its clipping.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
maybe your alternator/battery/ power supply isnt big enough to properly power that size amp, i know i killed 2 alternators and had to get a high performance 230 amp alternator to power my stuff
Something is not wired right in your car then, I run stock ALT. with 1 optima red top in rear, and a DynaBatt up front and run a PPI 2300am (modified) runs about 350RMS X 2 4ohm 700RMS X 2 2oms 1400RMS X 1 2ohms 2- 40 amp fuses , the a Boston Acustic GT42 900 RMS total 2 40amp fuses total 9 speakers, was 10 but went down to just 1 sub 10" Alipine Type X. I never had any problems with killing ALT. or batteries. Just run the proper gauge wire which I run 1 ga. to back and 2 -4 ga wires to each amp and have fuse up front for 80amps and a breaker in rear 80amp and never has tripped or blown either. Ground is a 1ga. in rear and 2 ga. up front., 2 ga. power wire from ALt. to battery. So do the big 3 wire upgrades for your car and use the proper ga. wire and you shouldn't have problems with the stock Alt. Unless running 4-5 amps and putting out alot of RMS from them. I also run 5-6 gauges and other gadgets while driving.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
the sub is wired at two, i tried it right now wired to the amp at two ohms and it hit as hard. im kinda of lasy to take the sub out and wire it at 4. would that make a difference tought. if wire the sub at 4 and bridge it at them amp at 4.
The amp won't last too long with the wrong ohm load, it needs to be at 4ohms to have max power. Your running it at about twice what it is suppose to be putting out, so no wonder it hits hard, but it will soon die, better off either hooking it up right or getting another amp that puts out the power you need for the sub, which by the sounds of it at least 300-400 RMS for your sub.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Something is not wired right in your car then, I run stock ALT. with 1 optima red top in rear, and a DynaBatt up front and run a PPI 2300am (modified) runs about 350RMS X 2 4ohm 700RMS X 2 2oms 1400RMS X 1 2ohms 2- 40 amp fuses , the a Boston Acustic GT42 900 RMS total 2 40amp fuses total 9 speakers, was 10 but went down to just 1 sub 10" Alipine Type X. I never had any problems with killing ALT. or batteries. Just run the proper gauge wire which I run 1 ga. to back and 2 -4 ga wires to each amp and have fuse up front for 80amps and a breaker in rear 80amp and never has tripped or blown either. Ground is a 1ga. in rear and 2 ga. up front., 2 ga. power wire from ALt. to battery. So do the big 3 wire upgrades for your car and use the proper ga. wire and you shouldn't have problems with the stock Alt. Unless running 4-5 amps and putting out alot of RMS from them. I also run 5-6 gauges and other gadgets while driving.
you have 2 batteries though, i had 2500watts rms on a regular battery and stock battery wiring
havent had any issues since i got the 230 amp alternator, next step is the big 3 also though
I only had the Optima before I got the Dynabatt(8-11Lbs) 500cc amps ,and had 2ga. wiring to the rear and still worked fine, if a person does the big 3 and uses the correct gauge wire they shouldn't have a problem with their ALT.'s using 2 amps that are only rated below 1000 RMS. The stock alt. is fine , it would be wiring size, grounds, and miswiring of componets that would cause faults. I wouldn't recommend a bigger alt. for someone running a 300 RMS amp. Only if their running 3-5 amps and putting out some serious power to where their lights dim when their stereo is on while driving at night
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Might be cheaper to buy a sub thats 4 ohm than a amp, if you like the way it sounds just get a 4 ohm sub yor running.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
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