speaker problem

[jj71787]

i bought new speakers and the passanger side was staticy like a crackling noise i exchanged them and the new ones still do the same thing

[Kevin01]

Re: speaker problem

Sounds like a bad connection somewhere. Stock stereo? Aftermarket.. HU.. AMP?

[jj71787]

Re: speaker problem

Its a pioneer dehp 3900mp hu

Alpine sps 17c2 speakers in the front and stock in the back

[96firebird311]

Re: speaker problem

crackling how? Cutting in and out? If so, you probably made a semi-faulty connection when installing the speakers. Check again. After that, try pulling your headunit out and connecting the speaker to the speaker leads RIGHT BEHIND the headunit. If it plays fine, then you know you have a crappy connection somewhere along the line. If it still sounds messed up..... you can try the known good speaker right behind the headunit. If the speaker that WAS playing fine is now crackling, a channel on your headunit is toast. There's nothing else it could be.

[jj71787]

Re: speaker problem

it plays but one i turn the volume up to about 35 it starts making a crackin noise the cant be loose behind the radio becuse i had the circuit city guys take out the radio today for a different reason and he checked all the connections in the back before he put it back on

my dad actually installed these speakers the speakers are a 2 way connection and the stock wires are 4 way connection so he sadered the wires together and the one on the drivers side sounded fine until i unplugged the passanger speakers then it crackled too until i plugged it back in then it was fine

[RadRacer]

Re: speaker problem

Here's what I think is you're problem:
You have to seperate the channels for the speakers. You see the tweeter in your speaker? Well, there should be a set or wires coming from it, cut them from the set coming from the woofer. Solder one set of connections to that, and the other to the woofer in the speaker. You have to make sure you get the right channel to the right one though, otherwise you'll be sending your lows to your tweeters and blow them.

From my reading, that's your problem. I'd wait for Ken to chime back in and help you though.

[jj71787]

Re: speaker problem

i soldered the wires together to fit the 4 way setup since the speakers were only 2 way

[96firebird311]

Re: speaker problem

Rad is correct. The stock tweeters are powered separately and directly off the headunit. I hope you remember which pair of speaker wires previously went to the tweeters... cause it's been too long for me to remember. Just as rad mentioned, you can cut the tweeter connections on your new co-axils and wire them to the stock tweeter wiring. The tweeter negative usually goes directly to th co-axil negative prong. The positive usually runs through a small cap then to the positive prong. Should be easy to spot. I've done this on a boat load of f-bods with great success.

[jj71787]

Re: speaker problem

i dont know much about car audio my father knows a little more then i do
i dont know if anyone understands how im wording this but the stock speakers are 4 way hook ups the speakers i bought were 2 way so my father sodered the positive together and the negative together so now its 4 way to 2 way

[96firebird311]

Re: speaker problem

I understand that. One pair of the stock speaker wires goes to a tweeter the second pair goes to a woofer. I just described to you how to mimic this setup with aftermarket speakers. Power the tweeter in your new co-axil with the stock tweeter wires and the woofer with the stock woofer wires. You are currently using two amps to power a single speaker. You're lucky you haven't fried something yet....

To quote from another website:

the connector that plugs into the speakers has 4 wires going into it. the blue/light blue wires hook into the midbass of the speaker, and run to the amp. the other 2 go to the tweeter in the speaker, and to the head unit of the car. MAKE NOTE OF THIS BEFORE YOU CUT THE CONNECTOR OFF OF THE SPEAKER. there is only one connection, and it connects all components of the speaker together. in other words, unless you remember which wires go to the tweeter or which to the mid (also remember the blue/light blue wires go to the amp), you will have a damn difficult time using the connector. and trust me, you don't want to cut the connectors off and splice wires. if you do that, you'll end up wishing you hadn't for several reasons; two of those reasons include lack of space to work, and inability to convert to stock easily in the future.

i used the same speakers that rogue leader did for the door speakers. the alpine's fit perfectly in the plastic casing for the door speakers - i would highly recommend these speakers because they were much easier in every aspect than other aftermarket speakers are, and i'll get to more reasons later on. i paid $97 after tax for these speakers at circuit city, where i could have gotten them online for $75 shipped. i paid more because i could go back to circuit city if i had a problem, whereas if i had bought them online, it's hard to get help. these speakers have one connection on the back of them - a negative and a positive. at this connection, both the negative/positive from the midbass and tweeter meet. this is where the work comes in.

the tweeters have a negative that connects directly onto a metal prong. the tweeter positive connects to a small capacitor (to allow NO bass or mid frequencies to reach the tweeter - if that happens, the tweet will blow - so don't leave this capacitor out of the loop!!), and then the capacitor connects to the other metal prong. what you do is clip the connection where the metal prong meets the capacitor, and likewise for the negative end of the tweeter. this is another reason that the alpine's are good speakers for this feat because they are pretty easy to dissect the wiring from, and trust me, this is a very important aspect.

now, take the long set of wires that you will have to cut from your old speaker connector and connect them. for the capacitor, i had little room to work with, so i used an actual connector. for the negative end, i had to get scissors (the wire is SUPER small) to cut the plastic casing off so that i could just old-fashion twist it together with another wire. on your same connection, use the shorter set of wires to connect the midbass portion of the speaker (the regular terminals). i used connectors for these as well. when you are finished, tape everything up well. you are finished. the first speaker i did took me quite a while to do, but the second speaker took 15 minutes or so at most. it's pretty simple, but it's tedious, and you must be careful or you can possibly destroy your brand new speaker.

[jj71787]

Re: speaker problem

I'm sorry I'm car audio stupid I only know the basics will I fry the speakers if I made the speakers from 2 way to 4 way

[Kevin01]

Re: speaker problem

You are really confusing me saying 4 way. The default setup stock radio runs the tweeters. So direct run from radio to Tweeters. Second Run goes form radio to the stock AMP then that goes to the woofer.. This is a two way. Two pairs of wire going to the speaker. Un hook the wires to you're speakers, if you do not know which pair is write ones, hook up one set to you're speakers and listen, then try the other.

Basicaly depending how the aftemarket stereo is hooked up you probably have two different amps, Stock Amp with the car plus Amp in the head unit poweriung you're front speakers at the same time. At the same time the amps are forcing power into each other.

A 4 way setup would be.. one set of wires going to tweeter.. one set goingto mid.. one set going to woofer.. and one set going to subwoofer (normal is 3 way..or 2 way.. 4 way really is not a standard, so put in subwoofer.. but that is not really normal)

[jj71787]

Re: speaker problem

What I meant by 4 way is if you look at the clip that you plug the speakers into the door has 4 holes in it and the new speakers I have the clip has 2 holes in it

[96firebird311]

Re: speaker problem

Any normal aftermarket speaker has two parts IMO. The woofer (large 6 1/2" cone size main base of the speaker) and tweeters (one, two, three, ten tweeters mounted in front of the woofer. 2-way,3-way,4-way,46-way,co-axil,tri-axil,quad-axil) Both of these parts have ONE pair of speaker wires sending power to them. Your job. Send the power from the factory amp to the woofer and only the woofer. Then send the power from the headunit to the tweeters and only the tweeters. I've explained clearly how to do this in my previous post.

If you're still having problems, please take it to a professional.

[jj71787]

Re: speaker problem

The speaker company told me to plug the speaker directlyinto the back of the radio if it still makes a cracking noise then the head unit is bad