ABS delete and Line lock

[LETZRIDE]

Re: ABS delete and Line lock

Ok steve, and others interested in doing this.

Watch out for different flare fittings...I got burned alot on this.

First the Apexi SS lines took a bubble fitting rather then a double flare fitting (bubble the flare angles outward)

If you put the wrong fitting in, then you will get leaks.

Apparently the front hole on the master cylinder is a double flare, and the rear is a bubble flare?...ya...don't know how that works, but thats what I discovered on my car.

The jegs line lock, takes a bubble flare fitting for the "out" hole, and you will need an adapter for the NPT fitting for the upper "in" hole.

If your brake lines are bigger in the rear like mine are, you will need a reducer when using the wilwood combination prop valve. All of there inlets are the same size...this is not a big deal and will not reduce your braking as your original lines from the master are 3/16ths lines.

Abs module unclips real easy. 4 bolts on the bottom side (this also undoes the power steering mount, so just make sure you don't get it in the face, my rad hoses held mine up fine until I put the two bolts back in.

The clips ontop of the abs are self explanitory, you do not need to take those cap things off with the hex screw driver.
There is a clip on the driver side of it, undo it and slide it out the bottom (I had some trouble with that one as I thought the whole thing came apart.)

Overall My car brakes MUCH nicer now...the pedal is very firm and I do not even have the rear brakes cranked up as much as what they probably could be...although I do have them cranked up quite a bit with the valve. I love the way it brakes now, much smoother, crisper, and nicer. Before it felt like I was trying to stop something that weight 4500 lbs, now you tap the pedal and she slows right down.

I'll post up some pictures in my next post here.

[LETZRIDE]

Re: ABS delete and Line lock

This is the bolts that are for the abs...there are only 4.




This is the bracket I had made up to hold my brake lines because of the PA racing K member...




Final product with all the lines run...yes, it is a little messy, and I haven't figured out what to do with all the extra abs sensor wires yet...

Don't mind the intake either, that is my winter one so the salt doesnt destroy the filter.




Placement of the prop valve...I basically put it hanging over the side where the abs module used to be...but I moved it back a little further towards the back of the car...almost where the old brake lines came up towards the abs unit before.

[Skinny]

Re: ABS delete and Line lock

Nice job, Good info Skinny, I will be doing this next. So be prepared for some PM's. LOL

PM box cleared and ready. :)

I've got all of next week off, so I plan to finally install my k-member and redo my front brakes then. I'll take some pictures.

[LETZRIDE]

Re: ABS delete and Line lock

PM box cleared and ready. :)

I've got all of next week off, so I plan to finally install my k-member and redo my front brakes then. I'll take some pictures.

Hey, I can return the help favour if you need help.

Stock up on M16 and M14 bolts...and you will NOT be able to reuse ANY of the hardware off the old K frame.

[Skinny]

Re: ABS delete and Line lock

From the looks of mine, I think the rear bolts (to the chassis) will work, but the middle and forward bolts look like they'd be too long. Is that the problem you had with them? The length?

I already have replacements for the A-arm bolts/nuts.

[LETZRIDE]

Re: ABS delete and Line lock

From the looks of mine, I think the rear bolts (to the chassis) will work, but the middle and forward bolts look like they'd be too long. Is that the problem you had with them? The length?

I already have replacements for the A-arm bolts/nuts.

Yes, they are shaft bolts with threads at the tip/end, so they are too long to reuse...I dont know about the rear most bolts as those are the two I snapped lol...and the drilled out pieces came out in dust more or less.

[LETZRIDE]

Re: ABS delete and Line lock

no idea if this is related to the ABS delete...but now when I drive around, and lets say I pop the car into neutral...the speedo drops right to 0, as if I am not moving...even though I am still travelling a X amount of speed....switch back into drive, and the speedo goes back to where it should be?

Not sure if this could be leading to a future issue? or if maybe it has something to do with any of the sensors that were plugged into the abs module?

[ssms5411]

Re: ABS delete and Line lock

Your scaring me now, I think i will just do a porp. valve for the rear and install the line lock and keep the ABS. LOL

[Skinny]

Re: ABS delete and Line lock

no idea if this is related to the ABS delete...but now when I drive around, and lets say I pop the car into neutral...the speedo drops right to 0, as if I am not moving...even though I am still travelling a X amount of speed....switch back into drive, and the speedo goes back to where it should be?

Not sure if this could be leading to a future issue? or if maybe it has something to do with any of the sensors that were plugged into the abs module?

That wouldn't have anything to do with the ABS delete that I'm aware of. The speedometer is controlled by the speed sensor in the transmission. The ABS system uses only the speed sensors at the wheels.

[LETZRIDE]

Re: ABS delete and Line lock

Your scaring me now, I think i will just do a porp. valve for the rear and install the line lock and keep the ABS. LOL

lol...

That wouldn't have anything to do with the ABS delete that I'm aware of. The speedometer is controlled by the speed sensor in the transmission. The ABS system uses only the speed sensors at the wheels.

Weird...I've never had the car do that before...but I honestly usually don't throw the car into neutral often while driving...so this could of been from before....The speedo reads 100% correct while in drive and reverse, so I guess that is all that matters....

My electronics have been going screwy lately (before ABS delete), my remote start and alarm stopped working completely (both remotes) and my battery will be 100% dead if you leave the car and dont drive it for 3-4 days.

Anyways...back on topic, the red brake light is on in the car...the prop valve has two prongs that came with wires that I can hook into for the brake lights...does anyone know which of the abs wires I should be tapping into inorder to get that red brake light shut off?

[Skinny]

Re: ABS delete and Line lock

The red brake light is on because of the ABS failure. Most (if not all) of the time the ABS INOP light is accompanied by the red BRAKE light. Better get used to it. ;)

[LETZRIDE]

Re: ABS delete and Line lock

The red brake light is on because of the ABS failure. Most (if not all) of the time the ABS INOP light is accompanied by the red BRAKE light. Better get used to it. ;)

well I am used to the ABS light being on...but I know that the red BRAKE light used to come on for 1 of two reasons.

1) your parking brake was on
2) you have a problem with your brakes, I.e you have a leak somewhere as the pressure is not the same in all your lines.

I think that the harness plugged into the abs unit had a wire or two that communicated with the abs module to see the pressure in each line...I have a hook up for that with the prop valve I have...but I need to figure out which wires I need to tap into...I'm thinking that should set off the BRAKE light, and still have it function as a safety if I ever do have a problem with the brakes.

I really just want the light as a safety feature...its a dummy light.

[LETZRIDE]

Re: ABS delete and Line lock

Just a note out...don't break a banjo bolt on these cars...apparently no GM parts place has them ANYWHERE...and they're discontinued (cause its not like people ever have to do their brakes, and its not like the bolts don't break or get lost accidently...)

AND...steer clear of COCHRANE AUTOMOTIVE if you're in/near Toronto...I went in and asked for the banjo bolt (this is a specialty GM service place WHO DOES BRAKES) and when the guy said they don't have em and can't get them, I asked what they do when they do a brake job on a customers car and lose/break that bolt...apparently "they hand the keys back to the customer and tell them to buy a new car because now they aren't going to have brakes" .... I wonder if the ****tard was dropped on his head as a kid...

^btw this is not a result of the SS brake lines...it was my whole adventure today when I checked my brakes because I replaced everything when I did the lines, and I was unsure of the passenger side caliper and sliding pins...sure enough it was sticking pretty bad...so I went to change it...of course partsource sold me a bad caliper (where the banjo bolt goes in and the washers go was on a huge angle and pitted ) and I didnt see it...I torqued the bolt to spec but saw it still leaked...I thought maybe the torque wrench wasn't accurate so I tried to torque it a few more lbs (5-6 more) and she tore the head right off...awesome

[ssms5411]

Re: ABS delete and Line lock

Damm, Sorry to hear that, so what do you have to do run new brake lines, water cooled turbos use banjo bolt style fittigs to run the water and they also have them where the line will screw into it, thats how I'm running my water lines off my turbo, there small lines to line -3an or -4an which is about the size of a brake line. Just a thought.

[LETZRIDE]

Re: ABS delete and Line lock

Damm, Sorry to hear that, so what do you have to do run new brake lines, water cooled turbos use banjo bolt style fittigs to run the water and they also have them where the line will screw into it, thats how I'm running my water lines off my turbo, there small lines to line -3an or -4an which is about the size of a brake line. Just a thought.

my exhaust guy (YES EXHAUST GUY) of all people knows he can order them from raybestos, and one is coming in today....I honestly popped in there just because I was in the area...who woulda thought a guy that does exhaust and not brakes...knows where to get all the brake parts that the shops that do brakes dont know where to get....who knew? lol