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  • #16
    Re: Ceramic Brake Pads

    I missed that too, new rotors and pads= breaking them in doing the 0-60 stops ,0-50, 0-30 and so on like the instructions say. I will be doing all 4 of mine here soon with new rotors and ceramic pads so I have been reading the break in on them. Fronts are slotted Powerslot zinc coated rotors with Duralast ceramic pads and rears are R1 concepts zinc coated drilled slotted(were free) with duralast ceramic pads. I hope to get my Earls hoses on also if i can get the connections loose. To the OP spray the brakes down with brake cleaner and take it on a non traffic road and do the burn in process it still might help the problem. If not have the rotors turned and then do th break in process.
    Last edited by ssms5411; 09-18-2009, 10:33 AM.
    08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
    96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine

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    • #17
      Re: Ceramic Brake Pads

      I know this is out there and im wondering myself but what kind of rotors did you get like advanced auto brand? I was just wondering if like getting zinc plated rotors with ceramic dont mix well together... i dunno just throwing out suggestions.

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      • #18
        Re: Ceramic Brake Pads

        i put ebc red stuffs on ebc sport rotors recently and after 5000 miles they r still making the same amount of niose as the day i put tyhem on most ceramic pads will always make noise because they r such a hard compound i wouldent worry unless it accually gets worse

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        • #19
          Re: Ceramic Brake Pads

          My zinc plated slotted/drilled rotors with satisfied ceramic pads have never made noise even breaking them in. And still don't make noise 2 -3 years later.
          08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
          96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine

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          • #20
            Re: Ceramic Brake Pads

            oh ok so i need to brake them in, even after being driven on they are not broke in, makes sense.
            3M MAFIA
            ________
            | Dynomax Catback | Auburn Posi | 3:42s | B&M Ripper | DIY CAI | PVC Mod |
            Next on the list: GT2 Cam| 105# Springs |Headwork| Headers |
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            • #21
              Re: Ceramic Brake Pads

              alright guys, finally got sometime to work on the brakes today, it was just the passenger side that was making the noise, so i took the pads off and sanded them a little then cleaned them with breakleen put it back together, did the "bedding" started from 60mph and went all the way down to 10, it only grinded a little from the 60mph stop but after that noise whent away so problem is solved :tup:
              3M MAFIA
              ________
              | Dynomax Catback | Auburn Posi | 3:42s | B&M Ripper | DIY CAI | PVC Mod |
              Next on the list: GT2 Cam| 105# Springs |Headwork| Headers |
              sigpic

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              • #22
                Re: Ceramic Brake Pads

                Originally posted by SixShooter'00Camaro View Post
                alright guys, finally got sometime to work on the brakes today, it was just the passenger side that was making the noise, so i took the pads off and sanded them a little then cleaned them with breakleen put it back together, did the "bedding" started from 60mph and went all the way down to 10, it only grinded a little from the 60mph stop but after that noise whent away so problem is solved :tup:
                That's excellent news.

                I did have one question for you guys, since I've seen it referenced here a couple of times; which company is saying to bed the pads starting at higher speeds and gradually reducing the speed? I'm just curious - everything I've ever heard or read says just the opposite, start slower with medium braking and finish up with faster speeds and harder braking.

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                • #23
                  Re: Ceramic Brake Pads

                  You're not supposed to make successive passes from 60-0 50-0 40-0 etc down to 10-0... you're not supposed to come to a complete stop at all... you're supposed to go from 60-10 several (I've heard 8) times, and then drive around for a while using the brakes as little as possible and try to not come to a complete stop until the rotors have sufficiently cooled...

                  You don't want to come to a complete stop with your foot on the brake pedal while bedding brakes bc you can leave an imprint of pad material on the hot rotor...

                  The goal is to get the rotor really hot, and for there to be an even coat of pad material on the rotor... The rotor should have a blue tint from reaching break-in temp and a grayish film from the pad material...

                  At least that's the way I learned it...
                  Last edited by T-Mill; 09-25-2009, 11:23 PM.
                  Rebuilding the engine... Building a custom front end... T-top conversion... Custom rear hatch..
                  Custom interior...

                  TEAM NoVa

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                  • #24
                    Re: Ceramic Brake Pads

                    Found a good link:
                    http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
                    Rebuilding the engine... Building a custom front end... T-top conversion... Custom rear hatch..
                    Custom interior...

                    TEAM NoVa

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                    • #25
                      Re: Ceramic Brake Pads

                      Originally posted by T-Mill View Post
                      You're not supposed to make successive passes from 60-0 50-0 40-0 etc down to 10-0... you're not supposed to come to a complete stop at all... you're supposed to go from 60-10 several (I've heard 8) times, and then drive around for a while using the brakes as little as possible and try to not come to a complete stop until the rotors have sufficiently cooled...

                      You don't want to come to a complete stop with your foot on the brake pedal while bedding brakes bc you can leave an imprint of pad material on the hot rotor...

                      The goal is to get the rotor really hot, and for there to be an even coat of pad material on the rotor... The rotor should have a blue tint from reaching break-in temp and a grayish film from the pad material...

                      At least that's the way I learned it...
                      Yeah, that's kinda how I learned to do it. I looked around after posting that last one and found this on Hawk's web site:

                      1. After reaching medium speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat four or five times.
                      2. At higher speeds engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat five times.
                      3. At or near race speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat three times. Allow a few seconds between brake engagements while car is in motion.
                      4. Do not hold brake pedal. Park car for approximately 20 minutes or until brake rotors are completely cool to the touch.
                      5. If during the above steps the brake pedal becomes soft or brake fade is noticed, park the car immediately for approximately 20 minutes. Do not hold brake pedal.


                      Obviously this was written for racing applications, but as far as I know the procedure is pretty much the same with street pads.

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