Welcome to the FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com forums.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Guys, I just found out I bent my subframe when I smoked that curb on new years...I need to replace it, so I figured I mine as well go aftermarket...what is the best option when it comes to K members? I daily drive this thing 24/7 in all weather...it does see the track maybe 5-6 times a year...
give me some opinions...I need to order within the next week or so...
I have been running my PA Racing Tub. K and lower A arms for 3 years now with no problems and very light weight. My front end came up about 1/2" to a 1" when it was all done, this was with windsheild res., EGR, EVAP and the ALt. back metal bracket removed. Also fiberglass SS hood put on.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
I have been running my PA Racing Tub. K and lower A arms for 3 years now with no problems and very light weight. My front end came up about 1/2" to a 1" when it was all done, this was with windsheild res., EGR, EVAP and the ALt. back metal bracket removed. Also fiberglass SS hood put on.
Steve, how was the install on it? did everything fit up nicely? did you get chromoly? road race package? did you gain/loose any room between the intake manifold and the cowl?
Like I said, I need to order this in the next few days...how much weight did the A arms save you?
I took it up to the GM dealership where my dad worked and had one of the mechanics do most of the install since my back was hurting($100 for install)LOL. I bought it used(never installed $240 shipped) , was the chromoly version I believe along with the A arms. The height was the same on mine, the lower A arms were about 10 LBs each savings I think, upper A arms wasn't even noticeable, just look nice. I'm glad I had it there at the dealership the mechanic ran back and forth to the parts Dept. for the bolts. I trouble with some of the bolts on the pass. side by the motor mount and A/C I beleive and on the R&P, need to put the bolts back the other way when the parts are installed, makes it easier to remove next time, damm GM. Weight of the TUB K member was 20 LBs and the stock one was about 50LBS or more I think it was. I know with the tub k and arms and QA-1's it is suppose to be 75lb-100lb weight savings, I think it was.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
rack and pinion. I bought the PA racing one too. Just the standard one. did it by myself, it wasn't that bad from what I remember. It came with a few new bolts too. You just have to do something about the brake lines because there's no where to mount them. I used a few pieces of wire myself.
rack and pinion. I bought the PA racing one too. Just the standard one. did it by myself, it wasn't that bad from what I remember. It came with a few new bolts too. You just have to do something about the brake lines because there's no where to mount them. I used a few pieces of wire myself.
you bought the K member and rack...or just the rack and pinion? What is the difference between the stock rack and theirs?
For the brake lines Zip ties come in real handy, everything lines up perfectly, when they first came out they had a problem where the R/P mounts the holes needed to be drilled out more, but they have corrected the problem along time ago. So everything mounts up perfectly now. The front brake lines where the caliper meets the hard lines I'm going to weld in a new braket so I can get rid of the zip ties by the front wheels to make it look better.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Rack & Pinion is your steering rack that turns your front tires , where you tie end rods come out of. It just mounts to the K member with 2 bolts.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
They do have some manual racks that are polished and look bad@ss but for $600, I'll stay with the FE2 V8 rack & pinion.LOL
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Oops, I can see how that got confuzzled. I was just tellin ya what R&P meant. I meant I bought the PA racing Tube k also. My bad!
haha no worries man.
anything else you guys can tell me? a write up on how its done? how many hours I am looking at? should I pull the engine out with the old K member and move it, or should I suspend it in the air?
sorry for all the questions...I usually like to do alot of research on the work I do, but I didnt plan on sliding into a curb and doing this soo soon.
do you guys reccommend I get the road race option? I daily drive the car everywhere, and it sees the track maybe 5-6 times a year...I think I might probably stay with stock lower A arms since they are cheaper...what do I do for ball joints? and bushings etc...where can I get these?
I put a board under my oil and tranny pan and used a jack to support the engine. If you have a cherry picker or something of the sort that'd definitely be better so you have more room under the car to work with.
As far as actually doing it, it was something I dove head first into. It's pretty easy, a smart guy like yourself should be able to figure it out. Everything pretty much goes back on the way it comes off.
Actually, here's a thread with someone doing it now. He pulled his whole engine out but you don't have to. He's got some decent pics to give you a better idea of how it goes. http://forum.camarov6.com/showthread.php?t=99557
and btw, you definitely have to get an alignment after it's done.
alright thanks...makes me feel a little better already. should I get the road race option? do you have it blizzard?
and this is gunna sound dumb, but I just want to confirm that the subframe is the K member right?...cause the mechanic kept saying subframe...
I went with the standard one.
uhmm.. Maybe he meant the kmember but.. I have a feeling he meant the underside of the car. Ya know.. like subframe connectors? Holy crap, I hate to tell you this but you might have bigger problems. I'd get under there if you can and check it out for yourself.
We process personal data about users of our site, through the use of cookies and other technologies, to deliver our services, personalize advertising, and to analyze site activity. We may share certain information about our users with our advertising and analytics partners. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Tweet
Comment