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How many miles do you have on them? If alot you might as well do all your front bushings while your at it, I just replaced my tie end rods with Moog bushings when I put in the FE2 V8 rack & pinion so they should last a long time. You know if a Tie end rod is going bad when you get on the road and the car once to drifts to one side esp. on a uneven road you will have to hold the wheel so it doesn't drift. Cheapest I found for Moog tie end rods were $90 shipped for a pair, which was a great deal. I just like them because they have grease fittings unlike the stock bushings, so they should last alot longer than stock.
Sonofab*tch...this is getting expensive...tie rods are original to the car...except I dont know how to change them? do you have a link for those bushings though? what other bushings are under there?
You just need the tieend rods, lower and upper A arms and thats it for the front suspension. If you get all good bushings like Moog they will last you another 200,000 miles, which pay off in the end. Just grease them 2-3 times a year and your set. I'll see if I can find the link for the tieend rods, the tubular lower A arms will come with the bushings. So you'll just need the upper a arms and tieend rods. Can't go wrong investing in good suspension products.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Heres some cheaper priced ones from Amozan: You need 2 , they go on the outside and the spindle connects on to it for you steering. You will need 2 lower A arms, 2 upper A arms and 2 Tie end rods, and you'll have a nice tight front suspension. Most of the time you don't have to mess with the inner rods on the rack unless they get bent or somthing. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C541EY/...sl_zmmfx1pja_e
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
ok sweet...The lowers A's come with all the bushings I need, the uppers I am not going to touch at the moment because I will probably get new upper A arms within the next year or so...I'll grab the outer tie rods and change them up...
what do you think of these lower A arms?...should I go with these ones from racecraft or PA racing ones?...alot of guys on LS1tech seem to like the racecraft stuff, and they really like there K member to...apparently it is the lightest you can buy...but I am going to go with PA for the K member...
the thing I like about there A arms though is that they are chromoly! and only $349...where as most other companies start at 349 for the steel version....
I like my PA racing lower A arms & K member, so I would say might as well go with the K member & lower A Arms with them.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
thats true, I was just thinking about weight savings, and the fact that these are chromoly which is stronger then mild steel...
Eh did you ever figure out what that sound was that was coming from your rod end steve? I saw you were concerned about a noise from one of the rod ends in your front arms in a thread you made when you first bought them?
It was a loose bolt when they did my allighment at a shop that only charged $30 for a alignment, plus my trans mount bolt was loose I believe it was, thats why I got Firestones lifetime allighnment warranty, they do a good job and I have ha 6 allignments since I paid $130 for it. Its already paid itself off. I also just put lithuim grease all over the rod end thinking it was just that making the noise, but I was wrong, but the grease helps protect it. Another great upgrade was the FE2 V8 rack & pinoin from a 02' Camaro with the intermediate shaft, eliminates the rag joint on the 93-97 F-bodies and has a quicker ratio 16:9 on basic V6 models and 14:4 ratio on V8's and Y87 Camaros, but the rag joint are still on the 93-97 models , so its best to get 98-02 R&P so you get the intermediate shaft and don't have to worry about the slop in the rag joint styles.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
PA racing...mild steel everything...took forever talking to them, but the guy said he could have it out in 2-3 days because the v6 ones arent readily on hand.
I just hope its not longer then that.
I couldnt go with sphoon...it looks like your getting the exact same thing...except it was 570$ shipped for the K, and 440$ shipped for the Lower A arms...thats over $1000...I could've order the whole front end kit from PA and have it cost me that much...plus alot of guys here and on ls1tech are running PA with no issues, and PA are the lightest K's next to racecraft I believe (who still wont get back to me with an answer of whether or not they can make these for our cars)...
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
will be when I drop that weight off the front end...coupled with taking the ABS out, AND moving the battery to the trunk :stp: ....I think I will have removed close to about 100 lbs from up there....
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