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Just who are these individuals that I'm supposed to believe? I'm not one to believe something just because some guy on the internet documented his experiences. Are these people engineers?
This post will probably be deleted just like my last one.
Yes I am, and I'll delete any post that I deem inappropriate.
.
Gosh, some people just want you to do all the work for them. If you really want to know something, get your *** on yahoo or google and find the answer yourself. Other wise, you look like a sniveling, whiny, crybaby who needs everything spoon fed to them. Grow up.
Gosh, some people just want you to do all the work for them. If you really want to know something, get your *** on yahoo or google and find the answer yourself. Other wise, you look like a sniveling, whiny, crybaby who needs everything spoon fed to them. Grow up.
Actually, he claims to be 36 years old - but after I deleted his smart *** last remark to me, I don't think he'll be back.
Not to down your choice in Moog LCA bushings , but people who swap to poly also get rid of their wheel hop when LCA's with poly bushings are installed. Plus aftermarket LCA's give extra clearance for wider wheels in the rear. I know my BMR Chromoly LCA's did. When you start going with more power and start to have traxtion problems I always suggest UMI's tunnel mount TQ arm it solved alot of spin when I ran a 125 shot of nitrous and keeping the car straight.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
I will say with poly, they always squeak...maybe not now, but drive it enough, all the greasing in the world wont stop it. I tried everything, took the arms out re greased them that way when the grease point didn't work. It did help handling...to a point, they got very scary when you reached the limits because of binding, kind of tossed the car a bit. Spherical rod ends are the only way I would go if I decide to deviate from stock ever again. Rubber is best for Daily Driving.
I have rod ends up front on the A- arms and poly everywhere else on the car and I haven't had any squeaks for 10 years. from my suspesion. If people like Moog then thats fine but I still love poly it take a beating and will last forever , no cracking esp. in AZ where its hot and dry out, suspension parts don't last along time when they are taken too their limits. So far poly has held up great and I can't complain, next will be a tie end rod end since they seem to last onlt about 4-5 years and thats Moog brand.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Boxed OR tubular w/ poly bushings are the WORST for a daily driver.
I recognize that polyurethane bushings in both ends of the rear lower arms are a bad choice due to harshness and inability of the arms to rotate and subsequent binding but, given some way to allow the arms to rotate, why are boxed/tubular arms "the WORST" for a daily driver?
It also shows a lack of understanding how a F-body rear suspension works.
Please, help us understand how the 3/4 gen F-car rear suspension works by offering some instruction rather than simply making the observation that another post (which might have been deleted) shows a lack of understanding. I think I understand how the rear susp. works, but if I don't, I'm ready to learn.
Originally Posted by Den69RS96 View Post
Mark,
Just who are these individuals that I'm supposed to believe? I'm not one to believe something just because some guy on the internet documented his experiences. Are these people engineers?
This post will probably be deleted just like my last one.
Yes I am, and I'll delete any post that I deem inappropriate.
"Firebird GT", I know you are an "Administrator" and I extend the utmost respect to you, the volunteer time you give to the site and the discretion you have in maintaining the decorum here, however, I'm curious as to what kind of engineer you are (mechanical, electrical, chemical, etc) and for what company you do engineering.
I'm in a really good mood tonight, and you're as old as I am, so:
Mechanical Engineer
President of my college Sports Car Club
Modded Triumph Spitfire
Elected Chief Technical Inspector for SCCA NE Region
Quality Manager of both OEM automotive and aerospace manufacturers
Obsessed with handling attributes
Understanding the effect durometer has on bushing performance is key to understanding F-body suspensions
Had my Firebird for 11 years, and have an extensive collection of GM technical info - I think I know the car really well - after all, I wrote the Technical Database on FirebirdV6.com
Been driving the car a couple of days now, and the change in bushings did more than fix wheel hop. On my usual 40 mile commute to the office is a nice mix of back country roads and interstate highway. I was not expecting anything different in the ride from changing the bushings, but that was not the case.
First, the rear feels more planted, especially on rough surfaces. A turn where I could always the a little sideways hop out of the axle did not make any hop at all. The rear stayed planted. And on the highway, long stretches of concrete that have lots of black top patches, the car used to wander a little bit, now it does not. Same with hitting those expansion joints, the car stays on track.
I'm attributing the better ride to the new bushings keeping the axle in proper plane, and not letting it shimmy or move/"jounce" around in the old soft bushings. And they were very soft, especially with all the air space in them. Guess that is why the Trans Am comes with solid bushings.
Anyway, if you have wheel hop and are looking toward Moog bushings for the fix, you will also get an overall ride improvement too boot.
A worthy handling upgrade even if your car does not have wheel hop issues.
I'm sure poly bushings will give an even firmer feel, but for my driving, the solid Moog bushings were a very good choice.
Thanks for the write up mark. good info from all parts involved!
Team NoVa
2000 Firebird- Intake, Pacesetters, !cat, full 2.5 to flowcrapster, 1.9 rockers, LS6 springs and Intense modded retainers, WS6 speedlines, T/A bumpers and hatch, 5 spd swapped, SOON TO BE nitrous'd and cammed.
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