Welcome to the FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com forums.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Worse issues with wheel hop? Sound counter-intuitive...
It all depends on the setup. It might be counter intuitive but using the LCA relocation brackets can just continue to exacerbate the situation for some setups.
You should be using the stock length, just measure it against the stock when you take it off and you can adjust it later.
From the UMI LCA install instructions:
"4. Place the new adjustable LCA on top of the OEM LCA removed. Set the adjustable control arm to the length of the OEM LCA. We recommend running the adjustable LCA at stock length. If adjustment is needed the adjuster can be turned to shorten or lengthen the LCA once it is installed on the vehicle. To adjust length, loosen both jam nuts, screw adjuster clockwise or counter-clockwise to shorten or lengthen the LCA."
That's cool and all but doesn't really answer my question.
That answers your question completely if you are using adjustable lower control arms. take the original ones and set them up so you have the correct length.
Adjustable on top, non adjustable on bottom. Adjust the nut until the holes line up.
Can't remember what stock ride height should be. But if you car is lower and it still has the stock panhard bar, the left side wheel will be closer to the fender than the right side.
Can't remember what stock ride height should be. But if you car is lower and it still has the stock panhard bar, the left side wheel will be closer to the fender than the right side.
:eek:
I was checking the car out before going to the track a few weeks ago, and I noticed tire rubbing on the inner fender on the left side! So I guess all f-bodies do that?
No. No, they aren't supposed to do that in stock trim.
But if they are lowered quite a bit, the stock length panhard bar will push the axle to the left. It's all because that panhard bar acts as a hypotenuse of a triangle. Make the angle more acute by decreasing the height, and the length increases, causing that shift. So if you've got a car with lowering springs or something significantly short than stock, it'll do this.
If you raised your car above stock, it's pull the axle more to the right. Basic geometry there.
Before you go to order an adjustable panhard bar, make sure the bushings are good on yours and also that it isn't bent. You can get an adjustable bar for a reasonable price online through multiple companies.
I want to know how the length of the lower control arms is determined. Someone somewhere had to figure that out before they started making the stock control arms right? I like to understand why I'm doing stuff rather than just being told what to do.
No. No, they aren't supposed to do that in stock trim.
But if they are lowered quite a bit, the stock length panhard bar will push the axle to the left. It's all because that panhard bar acts as a hypotenuse of a triangle. Make the angle more acute by decreasing the height, and the length increases, causing that shift. So if you've got a car with lowering springs or something significantly short than stock, it'll do this.
If you raised your car above stock, it's pull the axle more to the right. Basic geometry there.
Before you go to order an adjustable panhard bar, make sure the bushings are good on yours and also that it isn't bent. You can get an adjustable bar for a reasonable price online through multiple companies.
So in theory, it the stock panhard is 50" (I know it's not) and ffs the ride height is 25 and the other leg of the "triangle" is 20, totaling 95" perimeter. You lower the car 2.5", meaning the ride height is now 22.5. You'd need a 1.25" longer panhard and whatever the third leg is?
No. No, they aren't supposed to do that in stock trim.
But if they are lowered quite a bit, the stock length panhard bar will push the axle to the left. It's all because that panhard bar acts as a hypotenuse of a triangle. Make the angle more acute by decreasing the height, and the length increases, causing that shift. So if you've got a car with lowering springs or something significantly short than stock, it'll do this.
If you raised your car above stock, it's pull the axle more to the right. Basic geometry there.
Before you go to order an adjustable panhard bar, make sure the bushings are good on yours and also that it isn't bent. You can get an adjustable bar for a reasonable price online through multiple companies.
Well my car is lowered with Hotchkis springs. I need to install that PH bar huh.
It seems like there's just one length needed for the LCA. I mean, if the car is lowered the length might change a bit, but there's only that one length for it. There are relocation brackets that you can get where you might need the adjustable ones. But otherwise...
Alright, installed the new LCA's. I want to say that the problem is better but it's not gone. I'll have to drive around some more but it seems better, maybe only because I really want it to be gone.
I don't want to question if my springs are good or not anymore so I'll just get some new aftermarket springs and I'll have to get a PHB too. I want the least amount of lowering possible so does anyone know any good springs that won't blow a hole in my wallet? I've got KYB AGX if that makes a difference.
Well my car is lowered with Hotchkis springs. I need to install that PH bar huh.
It seems like there's just one length needed for the LCA. I mean, if the car is lowered the length might change a bit, but there's only that one length for it. There are relocation brackets that you can get where you might need the adjustable ones. But otherwise...
Adjustable PHB would be a good idea, search around some of the V6 sites or even LS1tech, I've seen some on car adjustable ones going for cheap recently.
Alright, installed the new LCA's. I want to say that the problem is better but it's not gone. I'll have to drive around some more but it seems better, maybe only because I really want it to be gone.
I don't want to question if my springs are good or not anymore so I'll just get some new aftermarket springs and I'll have to get a PHB too. I want the least amount of lowering possible so does anyone know any good springs that won't blow a hole in my wallet? I've got KYB AGX if that makes a difference.
I'm just running stock WS6 springs in the rear, but wheel hop is countered by good quality shocks. Springs are just tension/compression as a load bearing mechanism. The shocks help dampen the effects of the drivetrain and road events. Check your shocks first before buying a bunch of stuff you don't need. Especially if you're running stock Decarbons!
So in theory, it the stock panhard is 50" (I know it's not) and ffs the ride height is 25 and the other leg of the "triangle" is 20, totaling 95" perimeter. You lower the car 2.5", meaning the ride height is now 22.5. You'd need a 1.25" longer panhard and whatever the third leg is?
Shorter panhard.
To keep the base length the same after lowering the ride height (essentially keeping the chassis centered over the axles), you need to run a shorter panhard rod.
Original ride height is 25", panhard bar length is 50", base length of that triangle is 43.3"
If you lower the height 2.5", but keep the base length the same, then panhard length has to be 48.8"
It's all Pythagorean theorem and all that fun stuff.
Adjustable PHB would be a good idea, search around some of the V6 sites or even LS1tech, I've seen some on car adjustable ones going for cheap recently.
I'm just running stock WS6 springs in the rear, but wheel hop is countered by good quality shocks. Springs are just tension/compression as a load bearing mechanism. The shocks help dampen the effects of the drivetrain and road events. Check your shocks first before buying a bunch of stuff you don't need. Especially if you're running stock Decarbons!
My shocks are good. KYB Adjustable Gas Shocks aka KYB AGX.
I'm guessing my springs are just worn. They're the original stockers still in there but like I said, I swear the car sits lower. Another mechanic here at work said his camaro did the same thing until he replaced the springs. It's gonna be awhile before I get any but it's manageable for now.
We process personal data about users of our site, through the use of cookies and other technologies, to deliver our services, personalize advertising, and to analyze site activity. We may share certain information about our users with our advertising and analytics partners. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Tweet
Comment