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  • Shock installation

    Does anyone know how long it takes to change the front and rear shocks on a '98 Camaro?
    I got the SLP take-off shocks and went to have them installed today. The guy said it would be about a 4 hour job. He said that to remove the rear shocks, he would have to open up the panel inside the car, and the front ones would be even more difficult. Is this all true, or is this guy clueless? They've done work on my car in the past and are pretty reliable.
    Pewter 2002 Z28 M6<br />Black \'98 Camaro 3.8 M5 (Gone)<br />Silver \'97 Camaro Conv. 3.8 A4 (Girlfriend\'s)

  • #2
    The backs are trivial even with removing the "panel". Can't be more than an hour, should be less.

    The fronts are a lot harder. Even so, three hours? I don't know if he's clueless, but he's not undercharging you :D .
    2000 Firebird convert, chameleon/tan, M5, Y87, TCS, BMR tower brace and panhard, KBDD sfcs, 245/50-16 GSCs

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    • #3
      It took me about 4 hours to do all 4 shocks, and I had never done it before. The rears are easy. The 'panel' he refers to is the carpet over the rear axle. You need to remove it to get to the bolts on top of the rear shocks.

      The fronts are much more difficult, at least 1 and 1/2 hours per side. You need spring compressors and alignment of the bolt holes on the bottom of the shock is really key.

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      • #4
        By the labor book it is 3.4 hours labor to remove and replace the front shocks. It is a pian in the neck to change them out. Look for my post about it. You can do it yourself if you have tools (spring compressor). If you are changing the shocks are you changing to V8 springs at same time. I noticed a big difference putting both in my 97.
        I am not CRAZY just temporarily disturbed.

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        • #5
          97 Firebird- Does your car ride any higher now? Mine looks like a factory 4x4 now, but would I look like I had a lift kit if I swapped to v8 springs?

          I just when through the shock installation. As has been previously stated, the rears are pretty easy. For the fronts, you need to remove the master cylinder from the booster to get to two of the upper mounting bolts. You wind up removing the upper A-arms with the shock/spring unit. My upper shock nuts were rusted quite badly. It took a shop a lot of time with an impact wrench to free them up. I could not have done it myself. Plus I didn't want to be beating the crap out of the upper bolt with the compressors on there. I have heard some terrifying stories about stray springs causing some major injuries, even when they are "properly" compressed. I will pay a few bucks to not deal with that. My shop said the same thing about the labor. They would look up the hours and charge the shop rate since I wasn't buying the parts from them. After hearing that I took the money I would have spent on the install and bought my own set of tools :D Still came out ahead. I would suggest unbolting the brake calipers up front as well. It isn't necessary, but I gave me a lot more room and I didn't have to worry about stressing the brake line will trying to remove/install the shocks.

          For anyone else that has done this swap, did you need a re-alignment afterwards. I now have a slight pull. This is probably due to the upper A-arm shifting slightly on the reistall. Just one more thing to consider for those considering the swap.

          [ February 18, 2002: Message edited by: Backfire ]</p>

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          • #6
            here is a copy of what I posted when I did it...

            The fronts were a pain if you decide to do this make sure you have a replacemnet blots for the top of the shock. You cannot see them from any where inside the car for some reason the rust real bad. Rain from off the hood goes down the valley in the hood and goes into a little hole and rust the bolt. The rear springs were easy. Put the rear in the air and removed the shocks then gentle pulled down on the rear end and pulled on the springs and they came right out. About 1 to 2 hours to do the rear comply not realy sure did not time it but it when fast. One person can do the rear them selves another person would help but not needed . the rear V8 springs are shorter then ares . You will see that as soon as you pull them out. The shocks are a joke from ares to there. Ares look like tooth picks compared to theres. Fromt springs where harder you wil need one person to help you and another around just in cases youi you need another set of hands. Pessenger side you will need a spring compressor to remove and install the springs. Driver side you will have to move your master cyclinder for your brakes out of thew way be care doing this you can bend your brake lines. You may also want to remove your sway bar for easier removing the shock and spring form the front. I will post more later about this.
            I am not CRAZY just temporarily disturbed.

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            • #7
              here is a link to what i posted on doing mine

              http://www.camarov6.com/ubb/ultimate...c&f=2&t=000599

              BACKFIRE make sure you have the springs sitting right inside the upper perk area. If it is not in there right your car will be higher. I have had the upgarde in my car since 2 feb it looks like I am a little higher maybe a 16th or so but not much I pulled beside a 2002 camaero in the dealership last night and both cars sat the same. But the springs and shocks I removed had 75000 miles on them and the road I live on is not nice to shocks and springs.
              I am not CRAZY just temporarily disturbed.

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              • #8
                I needed a completely new front upper shock insulator cause mine was rusted solid onto the old shock. It's not bad at all IF nothing is rusted to a point where you can't take it off. It happened to me and it's a 96. So if you have an older car, make sure the car can sit for a week until you can get the part ordered.

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                • #9
                  Did you need to replace just the isolator or the mount? I was worried about having to cut the nut and shaft with a torch before I got them loose and that high heat would probably have melted the rubber on the isolator and the mount. The isolator was only about $8 a piece, but the mount itself is $91 from the dealer. I was not excited about that prospect, but I was lucky enough to get them off without the torch :D

                  [ February 19, 2002: Message edited by: Backfire ]</p>

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