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  • Upper and Lower Ball Joints

    Alright...so i finally get my T/O SLP Shocks on and see a huge difference. But, i've still got road wander...now let me specify this is not the slight veering that camaros have a tendency to do on uneven roads. MY car still veers like a wounded baitfish in the water. I went to have her aligned, and the guy said that my ball joints were shot. That makes sense new shocks, but worn ball joints equals road wander. Now my question is do I get the standard TRW or McQuay norris ball joints from AutoZone or Advance, or is it worth the extra money to get GM original parts. I know in a lot of cases there is no difference, but this is a major suspension linkage, and if there is a difference in quality or performance i'll probably spring for the extra cash. However, if ball joints are anything like alternators, it doesn't matter which one you get, after about 50k , miles you're getting a new one. Anyone who has replaced their ball joints themselves have any info on the subject??

    BTW .... 1993 3.4L A4 Camaro Almost Bone Stock
    1993 Camaro 3.4L A4 many mods comin for 2004<br /><br />\"The last thing I wanted was to get in a fight in Jackson, Mississippi on a Saturday night\"

  • #2
    i'd get the ones from the autoparts store because they auctually have grease fittings and can be serviced...

    to be honest though man if you are going to do this you might as well replace the control arm bushings.. it's not that much more trouble and if you do all those bushings and ball joints I think you will be happy.. besides if your balljoints are going your bushings are proably not too far off..
    one more edit.. I'd look into tie rod ends too..

    replacing one of these and not the other will sometimes cause problems because you start putting more stress on the old parts .. if the new parts don't give the old ones might start to give..
    replacing all that stuff isn't really hard.. just need a weekend and a place to do it.. a friend to help out is nice too.. though not necessary..
    then a trip to the alignment shop when you are done.. and all will be good..
    [ August 12, 2002: Message edited by: black98V6 ]

    [ August 12, 2002: Message edited by: black98V6 ]</p>
    -Brad
    98 Firebird - gone from mod mode to keep it running and useable mode.
    2000 V-Star Custom 1100
    If all else fails use a bigger hammer!
    :rock:

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    • #3
      Thanks for the info....by the way once you press the old ball joint out, do you have to press the new one in or does it bolt in?

      BTW....I replaced my tie-rod ends when I did the shocks, as well as sway bar links. But couldn't hurt to do the bushings.
      1993 Camaro 3.4L A4 many mods comin for 2004<br /><br />\"The last thing I wanted was to get in a fight in Jackson, Mississippi on a Saturday night\"

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      • #4
        How hard were the tie rod ends? One of mine is bad.

        Got any pointers? Like torque spec maybe? This is my first time replacing tie rod ends.
        Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP

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        • #5
          Tie Rods
          -Tighten the hex slotted nut (2) to 47 N·m (35 lb ft). Align the cotter pin slot by tightening the hex slotted nut (2) up to 1/6 additional turn, or 70 N·m (52 lb ft) maximum. Do not back off the hex slotted nut (2) for the cotter pin (3) insertion.

          -Install the cotter pin (3) into the hole in the tie rod stud.

          -Adjust the toe by turning the inner tie rod. Follow recommended manufacturer specifications.

          -Tighten the hex jam nut against the outer tie rod to 68 N·m (50 lb ft).

          -Tighten Inner tie rod to 100 N·m (74 lb ft).


          Upper and Lower Control Arms
          Tighten the lower control arm nut to 110 N·m (81 lb ft).

          Tighten the upper control arm nut (4) to 53 N·m (39 lb ft).

          I can email you guys the repair section out of the GM service manual if you want any more info. Just send me a email.

          [ August 12, 2002: Message edited by: jonny985 ]</p>
          1996 Silver Camaro, Y87, M5, cammed..<br />N/A Best Time: 14.012 @ 98.59<br />195 rwhp / 233 ft-lbs b/f heads/cam<br />Check out my site <a href=\"http://silver3800.cz28.com/\" target=\"_blank\">http://silver3800.cz28.com/</a>

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          • #6
            <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by MississippiMaro:
            Thanks for the info....by the way once you press the old ball joint out, do you have to press the new one in or does it bolt in?

            BTW....I replaced my tie-rod ends when I did the shocks, as well as sway bar links. But couldn't hurt to do the bushings.
            <hr></blockquote>


            well the lowers are pressed out and pressed back in.. the uppers you drill out 3 rivets.. (maybe 4 on our cars not 100% sure) and put bolts in their place (the bolts and a special retainer plate will come with the ball joint).. to drill out and knock out the rivet takes just a few minutes.. and when it comes to "pressing" in and out the lower ball joint you can press it with a friend, large socket and small (proably 3lb) sledge.. took my contorl arms to a shop to have everything "pressed in and out" (so to speak) and watched a guy do this whole sledge-socket thing..
            -Brad
            98 Firebird - gone from mod mode to keep it running and useable mode.
            2000 V-Star Custom 1100
            If all else fails use a bigger hammer!
            :rock:

            Comment

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