MAC Torque arm install

[Skinny]

I'll finally be putting the thing in on Monday. Anything I should know about before I install it? I don't have any instructions, but I figured I can just wing it... doesn't look too complicated. I know I'll have to remove the center console, and I think I remember people saying that's the hardest part - well, I got that covered. [img]smile.gif[/img]

For anyone who has installed it and has instructions, If you could scan them and email them to me, that'd be great. If not, could you post a quick how-to for me? It looks pretty straightforward, but that's never how things work on my car.

Thanks [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]

[ March 02, 2002: Message edited by: 96BeastV6 ]</p>

[ItalianStallion1]

You might want to change your mind on this torque arm. It is a b*tchhhh to install.

1. Do you have a die grinder?

2. Do you have a 1 piece driveshaft?

3. Do you have another person to help you?

If you are missing one of these things then you won't be able to do the job. You'll need the die grinder to cut out a piece of that big a$$ support plate. The reason is because there is a plate for the E-brake that doesn't let the TA support plate slide forward far enough.

The reason you'll need a 1 piece driveshaft is because you have a two piece. The two piece is supported by a center support bearing which is connected to the torque arm. Once you take the stock torque arm off you take the center support bearing off and your two piece driveshaft will hang down. If you drive it like that, well, you can't drive it like that. I got mine from a 85 V8 F-body for 50 dollars. You might need a new u-joint. I recommend that you get the 1Le aluminum driveshaft.

The reason you need another person is because of the bolts for the support plate. You need someone to hold the bolt while you turn the nut inside the car.

Also, if you don't have a lift it's going to be a pain in the a$$. I was lucky, I had a lift and all the tools that I needed. You might have to go buy some tools. I don't mean to discurage you but it's not an easy job unless you know what you're doing.

[Skinny]

Yes I have all of these. ;)
No I will not reconsider install.... I didn't spend so much money on the thing to look at it on my garage floor.

BTW: If I can drop my transmission, swap a clutch, flywheel, and slave cylinder and put it all back in with basic hand tools and while on jack stands and ALONE... I can swap a dang torque arm. Thanks for the reply though. :D

[ March 03, 2002: Message edited by: 96BeastV6 ]</p>

[ItalianStallion1]

Ok, I wish you luck. How much did you pay for the torque arm, by the way? This isn't as simple as taking something apart and putting it back together, just to let you know.

Tool's you'll need:

1. 3/8 drill bit
2. drill
3. Torque screw for the interior, I forgot what size but it's a large size.
4. Die grinder.
5. You need a block of wood, 2X4, to push the support plate up into place. You'll have to use a jack to push it up into it.
6. A bunch of other tools that you'll have to size up.

I hope I didn't forget anything, it's 2:30am, you know.

Instructions:
Remove the seats, unbolt the seat belts from the seat and the floor, remove the center console, side stripping that holds the carpet down, You might want to vacuum because when you roll the carpet back all the dirt everything is going to get all over your back seats. You'll have to roll the carpet all the way back.
You seem to know what you're doing so I'll just say that to remove the torque arm you have to lift the rear end to make room for the two rear end bolts. There's three bolts on the transmission end that you have to remove so that the plate holding the torque arm comes off. The top one is pretty long and unless you cut it, it won't come off. So just tighten it so it's not bouncing around. Do you already have your 1 piece driveshaft on? If you don't be carefull when taking the 2 piece off, you don't want to smack yourself in the head or anything. Of course I mean that when you remove the center support bearing that the center of the driveshaft will come down a bit. So remove the drive shaft.

To line up the TA support plate up properly it needs to be as far forward as possible. I have a 97 and I'm pretty sure that your car is going to be the same as mine. This is the part that is kind of hard to explain and is not as simple as you think. Just putting it up in there isn't good enough. It has to be in a certain spot or you'll be hearing the torque arm hit itself. I experienced this, it's not a pretty sound. Another thing, is your exhaust piping in the way of the driveshaft safety loop? I have 3 inches on mine. It was hitting on bumps. I took it to the exhaust shop and had the pipe brought down a tad.

You'll see on the drivers side that there are two little squares of medal holding wires or something, I don't remember. The plate will have to be as far forward as possible like I said before. Line it up and look at just underneath your ebrake. If your car is like mine you'll notice that you can't slide it forward all the way to the front sqaure because there's a little plate of medal there, which is underneath the e-brake. If it's not then forget cutting the plate. If it is you'll have to take the die grinder to it. The support plate should be about a inch or 2 from the little front square, I don't quite remember so you'll have to use your good judgement. So after you took the die grinder to the support plate line it up again. I took out a good size chunck of it. So when you think you have it lined up perfect jack the b*tch up into the car. I used a engine hoist and a 2X4. Be carefull not to dislodge the block of wood while you're jacking it up, could be very dangerous. You might have to do it a few times to get the plate level. Try to get it in there as far as possible. I might slide forward or back, so watch for that. Once you get it in place drill the holes. Put two bolts on the front bottom so that the plate can go down but it will still be lined up with the holes. You'll need to put that little piece of the torque arm on now.You might want to grease it, I didn't but you might want to. Put the head of the bolt on the driveshaft side with the nut part going towards the driver side of the car. Do you understand that part? It's so that it doesn't come close to the driveshaft. So back to the jack and the 2X4. Stick it back up in there and put the a couple bolts in there to hold it there then you can remove the jack. Finish up the job. I don't know if you put the driveshaft on or what. Be carefull not get any pins from the u-joint in the way or anything like that when you put the driveshaft back on. I did, had to replace the u-joint. I got it for free so no biggy. If you do get a pin in the way it will make a big clunk sound. It will be as the driveshaft turns so you'll feal it over and over. The torque arm might make a little noise every now and then. It shouldn't be uncomfortable though. If it is then you either didn't put the torque arm up front enough or your exhaust is banging into your driveshaft safety loop when you hit a bump or something like that. Hope this helps. Any questions, let me know.

[Skinny]

Thanks. I'll be starting the install tomorrow. On Tuesday my new differential should arrive, so I will be able to finish up on the torque arm if I haven't yet, and put in the diff. Should be lots of fun for the next few days. [img]smile.gif[/img]

[ItalianStallion1]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 96BeastV6:
Should be lots of fun for the next few days. <hr></blockquote>

If you have a buddy, it shouldn't be too bad. You'll get some good forarm and tricep workout in. Have fun! [img]smile.gif[/img]

[Skinny]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by ItalianStallion1:
How much did you pay for the torque arm, by the way?<hr></blockquote>

Forgot to answer this one on the first round... I paid $150 for it. I got it from a guy on this board (can't remember his board name... I'm such an a*s... ). I know that may not be a whole lot of money, but it's way too much money to pay for something you're not going to use.

[ItalianStallion1]

150 is a real good price, I think it's like 400 retail.

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 96BeastV6:
I know that may not be a whole lot of money, but it's way too much money to pay for something you're not going to use. <hr></blockquote>

You'll get a use out of it. When you take off you'll feel how the torque arm helps. I have a mac panhard rod and that improved a lot of everything. I don't know if you have any other suspension mods but if it's the only one then you'll probably feel more of a difference then I did.

[Skinny]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by ItalianStallion1:

You'll get a use out of it. When you take off you'll feel how the torque arm helps. I have a mac panhard rod and that improved a lot of everything. I don't know if you have any other suspension mods but if it's the only one then you'll probably feel more of a difference then I did.<hr></blockquote>


Oh I'm sure I'll get plenty of use out of it. I was referring to the fact that it's been sitting on my garage floor for the last month and a half. Not getting much use there. =)

I'm about to go out and start on the install. I'll fill in on how things go, and I'll be taking pictures.

[gonein60]

OK here are some tips on installing it for you to make your life easier and save your driveshaft which it will surely **** up. First and foremost tighten down the main bolt and nut and grind 3/4 of the nut off. Then weld the nut onto the bolt so that what little is left doesn't come loose. then make sure you have adequate distance between the zerk fitting and the end of the arm about 1.5 inches should be enough, if you don't have this clearance kiss the zerk goodbye, as in mine is gone now. Next make sure you aren't using a carbon fiber driveshaft because they are wider than aluminum and steel and have further clearance issues. If you have a steel or aluminum you are ok to continue, if you have a carbon fiber driveshaft then you will want to grind about 1/4-1/2 of the safety loop bolts off so you will have clearance. Then you must take off the center console and take out the seats. Have someone hold the plate in place and drill the first hole through on one side of the plate, mount the bolt head on the outside of the car so the long part of the bolt is on the inside of the car, if you don't do it this way, welcome to more clearance issues. make sure all bolts are securely fastened, then reassemble car and drive VERY slowly to make sure there is no scraping. then go out and drive on the freeway to make sure when you hit a dip at high speeds it doesn't scrape. Bring the car home and see if there are any marks on the driveshaft. If there are then grind down problem bolt, if not consider yourself lucky. Next get ready for all the damn noise your new "floating" torque arm makes and the clunking that comes from downshifting and hitting bumps and potholes. If after reading all this you still want to install it then make sure you have a whole day and that someone is there to help you. Take Care, hope this helps.

[Mike Mayron]

Why hasn't anyone answered the 64,000 dollar question yet?

...

What kinda traction gains were precived from the new TA? Did eaither of you spin horribly before or anything like that? Don't suppose anyone's ever track tested it? Right now I have to launch @ like 3K to spin my tires so I havn't been in a rush to install my Mac TA sitting on my bedroom floor, but maybe I will if it'll help more than the weak-looking oem one.

[ItalianStallion1]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Mike Mayron:
What kinda traction gains were precived from the new TA? Did eaither of you spin horribly before or anything like that? Don't suppose anyone's ever track tested it? Right now I have to launch @ like 3K to spin my tires so I havn't been in a rush to install my Mac TA sitting on my bedroom floor, but maybe I will if it'll help more than the weak-looking oem one. <hr></blockquote>


Well, I use to chirp at 2nd gear, odd I know. My mods are intake, headers, and exhaust. Then I put on a panhard rod, sub frame connectors, and the mac torque arm. The tires can still spin but not like before. I could pretty much roast the tires before. Now, the most I can do is a little chirp or two. I think there needs to be a few more components add, like springs. I think tighter springs are perhaps a big part in a cars take off. I haven't hit the track yet so I can't put it into numbers, but I know my car is quick. I use to keep up with 99 GT's, they would barely pass me, just hardly edge me out, 1 block radius.

My friend use to have a 95 V6 stang and we raced a few times. He had Eibachs, intake, and exhaust.
I had intake and exhaust. He was quick in the whole shot, he could be me there. But as soon as my car would hook up I'd charge ahead. So I know springs are a big component.

I don't know what to tell you about the worth of installing it. I don't get how your hardly spinning your tires. I use to leave in "Drive" and the tires would smoke. I have 255/45/17ZR tires, what kind do you tires do you have? I have I answered your question? Is there anything you arn't sure about?

[Skinny]

Ok.. didn't get very far today for a couple reasons. I started very late in the afternoon... it was FREEZING! (I'm in Florida... not supposed to be like this!) I took out the seats and the console... I've done that too many times! I got the old driveshaft out, and the old torque arm out, and I put the new arm on, but didn't put the support plate in yet. A friend of mine came over with a new throttle body for his truck so I spent the the rest of the evening doing that.

I do have a question about the joint that connects the arm to the plate. I can't see how this bolt can go on there without me drilling a 3/4" hole through to the interior of the car. There is a hole in the support plate, because the bolt will obviously stick out. If the plate lies flush (or even close) with the underside of the car, how can that bolt stick through there?

Otherwise I haven't had any problems. Tomorrow I'll get that plate in there and my differential will arrive hopefully just in time for me to finish with the torque arm and start on that. I'm taking pictures along the way. I'm not however, with this century and I'm still using film, so I'll finish up the roll and get them developed as soon as possible after I finish the install. I'll be sure to have a nice burnout pic in there too. [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]

[ March 05, 2002: Message edited by: 96BeastV6 ]</p>

[ItalianStallion1]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 96BeastV6:
[B]I do have a question about the joint that connects the arm to the plate. I can't see how this bolt can go on there without me drilling a 3/4" hole through to the interior of the car. There is a hole in the support plate, because the bolt will obviously stick out. If the plate lies flush (or even close) with the underside of the car, how can that bolt stick through there?[/B <hr></blockquote>

I'm not quite sure what you mean. If you're saying that the bolt that connects the little piece of the torque arm to the plate is too long and is 3/4 inches, it's not. To turn that bolt I used like a 23mm socket and wrench. It's huge. I hope they gave you everything you needed.

Something I thought of right now is to make sure the plate is in the correct direction. I don't see how you could mistake it but maybe you're just getting ahead of yourself with all of this.

I wish you had a picture so I could see.

[Skinny]

You got the part that I'm talking about right. The bolt isn't 3/4"... that was just the first number off the top of my head, it's actually 15/16", but that's not really the point. Now am I correct that the nut on the bolt will stick out from the side of the plate a litte when it is on? If so, how can the side of the plate be flush against the underside of the car with that bolt sticking out? I'm thinking that if I tightened the six bolts on that side of the plate down then that one large bolt thats sticking out will put a big dent or even a hole on the bottom of the car. The plate will be flush against the body, but this one nut is sticking out. Does that make sense?