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Ok, I understand you now. My bolt didn't have a problem. I don't know if your bolt is bigger. Mine rests against it. You have to tighten the bolt before you install the little piece or you won't be able to get a wrench around it. I would drill the holes, pull the plate off, tighten the little piece and then put the plate back in. You might want to put the arm on all at once, now that I think of it. It depends on how much you put it forward.
Do you have the problem with the E-brake plate like I said before? Did you cut it yet?
1 of a kind<p>Red 97 Camaro<p>Modifications: <br />SLP CAI, RK Sport Headers, Car Sound High Flow Cat, 3\" piping<br />3\" Steel driveshaft, SFC\'s, Panhard Rod, MAC Torque Arm<br />Manual Fan Switch<p>Best E/T:<p>60\' 2.152<br />330 6.271<br />1/8th 9.704<br />MPH 71.93
I ended up putting the bolt through the other way, and I'll trim the nut as necessary to solve clearance issues, then I'll slap some JB Weld on there to keep it nice and tight.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by ItalianStallion1: Do you have the problem with the E-brake plate like I said before? Did you cut it yet?<hr></blockquote>
No, the ebrake isn't giving me any problems. The stock torque arm is back on for the rest of this week though. I need my car. Here is the new issue:
The ebrake parts clear fine. However the other side of the plate is giving me a hassle. There's a hump in the body on the driver side. It looks like the plate was made to go around it, because on that side the plate is much shorter than on the other side. If I slide it to the rear enough to where the plate is snug against the side of the hump, I only have about an inch and a half (or less) of movement area for the arm. If I slide it forward and put it on top of this hump, the driver side of the plate sticks about an inch away from the body. I'm going to cut about an inch or so off the end of the torque arm so I have some more room for movement. Next week I'll try again.
On a brighter note, I got my differential installed and did some cool donuts. [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]
[ March 06, 2002: Message edited by: 96BeastV6 ]</p>
-<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater
I think it's the same problem that I had, the difference is that my car is an automatic so I guess maybe it's a different spot that is the problem. I don't know if it matters to cut the torque arm, maybe that's what I should have done. But, the way I did it worked, cutting the support plate, so you might want to think about doing it that way.
1 of a kind<p>Red 97 Camaro<p>Modifications: <br />SLP CAI, RK Sport Headers, Car Sound High Flow Cat, 3\" piping<br />3\" Steel driveshaft, SFC\'s, Panhard Rod, MAC Torque Arm<br />Manual Fan Switch<p>Best E/T:<p>60\' 2.152<br />330 6.271<br />1/8th 9.704<br />MPH 71.93
No, I wouldn't do it. There's a annoying hitch when the gears switch. I don't know if it's because of the space between the two pieces of the torque arm or if it's because of the 85' 1 piece driveshaft. I'm pretty sure it's the torque arm. You have to get it perfect. I think I put it in d*mn close to perfect and there's still a problem. All that time and energy, not a whole lot of money. But no, it isn't worth it. Get a different torqe arm.
1 of a kind<p>Red 97 Camaro<p>Modifications: <br />SLP CAI, RK Sport Headers, Car Sound High Flow Cat, 3\" piping<br />3\" Steel driveshaft, SFC\'s, Panhard Rod, MAC Torque Arm<br />Manual Fan Switch<p>Best E/T:<p>60\' 2.152<br />330 6.271<br />1/8th 9.704<br />MPH 71.93
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