Suspension Stuff

[nwilson44]

Okay so I just replaced my front shocks with bilstiens and replaced the worn out 175k upper and lower control arm bushings with energy suspension polyurethane bushings. I also changed my tie rod ends at the same time. All that to say I now hear a crashing/clashing sound coming from the rear. So I assumed its the rear control arm bushings and/or panhard bar bushings. So I bought those energy suspension pieces and I was wondering if there were any tips or secrets I could use before tackling it tonight.

I also bought the energy suspension torque arm bushing. The directions make that one seem like a little more evolved process.

I also assumed it was rear suspension bushings because I get alot of wheel hop when I am acting a fool, and under hard braking I get some uneven braking coming from the rear after just replacing rotors and pads all the way around. Any advice? Tips?

[Hib Halverson]

Re: Suspension Stuff

Urethane can work well in the front but don't use it in the rear arms.

For the rear suspension to work properly, the rear arms must twist axially as well as move up and down. Urethane bushings inhibit that twisting and that causes the suspension to bind as it moves. When the suspension binds, ride suffers and handling is inconsistent near the limit.

Use either stock rubber bushings or spherical bearings. Or, a mix of both.

I have Global West tubular arms in the rear of my '01. They have a stock rubber bushing in one end and a spherical bearing in the other. They can twist and move up-and-down and they also reduce compliance in the rear.

[FirebirdGT]

Re: Suspension Stuff

I agree with Hib with a clarification.

Using stock or tubular arms changes the answer.

Stock LCA have more twist available, while tubular do NOT.

So the ES bushing could be used on stock LCA - BUT absolutely NOT on tubular useless it is a drag car.

I have 1LE bushings in my stock LCA now, and will shortly be replacing with ES bushings on ONE end only.
.

[Gutless]

Re: Suspension Stuff

Ive got polys in my stock lowers. The stock lowers are 100% fine with solid aluminum bushings, they are flimsy as anything. Its the shoebox without a lid type thing, if you box them it might be different. You can bend them with your hands, not even joking.

[nwilson44]

Re: Suspension Stuff

Well I heard crashing, so I assumed my bushings were bad. I also described the feel under hard braking. I don't mind the stiffer ride, as this is a camaro, not a luxury sedan, I just want the car to perform better. I did read the page on the poly vs stock and its not that I disregarded that info its just that I dont want to do this again for a long time. I like the stiffer more compliant ride. My buddies with the new 5.0 Mustangs were telling me how even though their cars a new, they swapped bushings and could tell a difference.

what are spherical bushings? Not sure what those are? And if I got the BMR LCA's what bushings do you use then?

[nwilson44]

Re: Suspension Stuff

Thought I could hammer them out...... 1 of 6 was able to be hammered out. (panhard and both LCA) yeah getting them pressed out tomorrow.

[WarShrike]

Re: Suspension Stuff

Yeah, it's best to press them out. Hammering it could deform the actual control arm where the bushing goes.

[Hib Halverson]

Re: Suspension Stuff

Thought I could hammer them out...... 1 of 6 was able to be hammered out. (panhard and both LCA) yeah getting them pressed out tomorrow.

Do not hammer them out unless you're willing to accept a high risk of damaging the control arm.

They need to be pressed in and out.

As for "spherical bearing"...they are like heim joints only they're not designed as a rod end. The bearing and its race are pressed into the control arm or retained with a snap ring. Since it's a spherical bearing, there is no compliance.

As for being able to use urethane bushings with the stock arms because one believes the stock arms will twist....

Not.

While in theory, the arms might twist, it's not enough for that twisting to replace the rubber bushings' capability to allow the arm to rotate axially. Also, if you rely on the arm itself to twist, that adds to the rear spring rate but what it adds is non-linear and that's not good.

Bottom line: with the exception of drag race only applications, regardless of the arm material or design; don't use urethane in the rear, lower arms of 3rd or 4th gen F-cars. If you do, the suspension will not work properly.

If I was building a street/track or street/strip suspension, for rear lower arms, I'd use the Global West TBC-14. They're what I used on the THRS project. For more info see: http://www.camarohomepage.com/project/part1.htm

[Kenneth]

Re: Suspension Stuff

I had a clunk and it was a defective shock! Free replacement with lifetime warranty.

[nwilson44]

Re: Suspension Stuff

Well I have been riding on them for about a day or two now, I may have to change them to rubber, but I like it so much now the way they are. NO wheel hop, And i just kicked it in the middle of the corner and it just oversteered and came right back. I may do a little comparo. after i change them.

[nwilson44]

Re: Suspension Stuff

Do you guys know why my front tire would be rubbing? Its a 275 section width tire, but thats a valid fitment for the front. The alignment was done after the upper and lower control arm bushings, and new struts. Then rechecked two days ago and its straight. No clue why its rubbing though.

[Ibanezz]

Rubbing when you turn? Hit a bump? Or just rubbing on the springs? What is the offset of your wheel?

[nwilson44]

Re: Suspension Stuff

The wheels are 2001 Trans AM WS6 wheels. And when I correct to the left or turn the wheel left I hear it. When I correct right It does not. So I guess when I turn left, but more specifically when I correct the car to the left or when you have a long left hand sweeping corner.