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  • BMR LCAs

    I'm thinking of getting the BMR LCAs from thunderracing.com

    Is there a difference you think between the boxed and the tubes for street use? I'm thinking tubes will be more than enough for street.

    The other question is whether I should go full poly/poly or do rubber/poly since those would be less likely to bind up.

    thoughts...
    Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.

  • #2
    I use the tubular ones with poly/poly bushings and i daily drive and hit the track all the time i get great 60 foots they help alot.
    <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

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    • #3
      If you're buying BMR the best place to get them is http://www.acaenterprises.com/catalog They have the best prices on BMR products!

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      • #4
        I went with the poly/rubber combo. I'm not sure if that's better though.

        [ December 20, 2002: Message edited by: shortdog273 ]</p>
        <b>99 Camaro Z28 A4</b><br />R.I.P. 00 Firebird 3.8<br />14.89 @ 90, 2.03 60\'

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        • #5
          <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by shortdog273:
          I went with the poly/rubber combo. I'm not sure if that's better though.
          <hr></blockquote>

          did you install them yet? not sure if they're better than what?

          just wondering. I already ordered a pair with poly/poly. the main reason that put me off from the rubber/poly was its not clear how soft or hard the rubber end is on those. if its as soft as what i have now, i doubt i'll feel a difference.

          hope i made a good choice....
          Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.

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          • #6
            i have bmr tubular lca's and the bolt in relocation brackets... and i love em... they're great i have no idea what wheel hop is... hope you like...

            merlin
            2002 Firebird<br />2003 Yamaha YZF 600R

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            • #7
              <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by morbid:

              did you install them yet? not sure if they're better than what?
              <hr></blockquote>

              I'm not sure if they're any better than the poly/poly combo.
              <b>99 Camaro Z28 A4</b><br />R.I.P. 00 Firebird 3.8<br />14.89 @ 90, 2.03 60\'

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              • #8
                <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by morbid:
                the main reason that put me off from the rubber/poly was its not clear how soft or hard the rubber end is on those. if its as soft as what i have now, i doubt i'll feel a difference.<hr></blockquote>

                Depends on what results you want.

                If it's mainly for drag racing, poly/poly will be ok, as long as you aren't expecting to corner hard on the street. The stock rubber is soft enough that it lets the rear move back and forth, oscillating and causing wheel hop. The poly takes away any front and rear movement. But it also binds up when the rear tries to tilt a little when cornering.

                Poly/rubber will let the rear tilt a little in the corners without binding. And it still takes out most of the front and rear movement, which eliminates most of the wheel hop, from what I've read on here anyway. The poly end gets rid of half of the movement, and the rubber end is harder than stock and eliminates most of the other half of the movement.

                I did a lot of searching/re-reading over the past couple of days on lca's. I ended up ordering the 1LE rubber/rubber because I want to drag and autocross. Even the 1LE all-rubber is supposed to eliminate most of the wheel hop.
                \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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                • #9
                  The 1LEs arent pretty, but the flex is in the bushings, and the stiffer 1LE bushings should do the trick [img]smile.gif[/img]

                  The BMRs look nice though, and are fantastic for drag racing - they will harm handling a bit though and can bind up in cornering situations acting like a big rear swaybar. I would stick with poly/rubber if I was going to do anything BMR.
                  2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
                  Details: www.1lev6.com

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                  • #10
                    that sucks. i hope i can change my order then.
                    Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.

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