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  • Caliper bolts, little devils

    Hello!

    I had to change my brake pads and ever since then whenever I go to brake it vibrates or veers off to the side... I could not torque the caliper bolts to the correct settings b/c I don't have a bolt that'll fit in there that will go on my torque wrench. I just used a set of tools that has hex ends or whatever to loosen and tighten them. Is this because I didnt put them on right? This never happened before? Maybe I need to bleed the systeM? I wanna see if its the bolts before I bleed it, but to install the pads all I did was use the c-clamp to squeeze the pad back into the caliper and put on new ones, used some anti-squeek stuff and slapped em in. I checked them today and they are still on good and snug :( what seems to be the prolem? Thank you!
    RedLineVSix <br />95 Patriot Red Trans Am, M6, 3.42\'s,no rear tires<br />(SOLD!)97 Silver Camaro 3.8 Liter A4 3.42 + LSD, 1pc DS, and one messed up speedo :)

  • #2
    You don't need to bleed the brake system unless you opened a line and let air into the system. What side is it pulling to? Try pulling the caliper pins out and cleaning them up, then lubing them. some times they get gunked up causing the caliper not to slide as well, therefor hanging up the brakes on that wheel. You might just want to have a tech look at it.

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    • #3
      <blockquote>quote:</font><hr> You don't need to bleed the brake system unless you opened a line and let air into the system. <hr></blockquote>

      Alright good, because I didn't [img]smile.gif[/img] Thanks!

      <blockquote>quote:</font><hr> What side is it pulling to? Try pulling the caliper pins out and cleaning them up, then lubing them. some times they get gunked up causing the caliper not to slide as well, therefor hanging up the brakes on that wheel. <hr></blockquote>

      It pulls usually to the right, lube them up with what? LOL [img]smile.gif[/img] I have no clue! holla at me tho

      <blockquote>quote:</font><hr> You might just want to have a tech look at it. <hr></blockquote>
      translates into "Yea put your tail inbetween your legs and quit" I NEVER QUIT I MUST GO ON ITS ALMOST TWO AND IM TIRED BUT NEVVVVEEEEERRRRRR!!!!


      On a side note, how hard should I tighten them? On a rating of a bit past snug, snug-u-lug, or sweet jesus :eek: ?

      [ December 22, 2002: Message edited by: raxxus ]</p>
      RedLineVSix <br />95 Patriot Red Trans Am, M6, 3.42\'s,no rear tires<br />(SOLD!)97 Silver Camaro 3.8 Liter A4 3.42 + LSD, 1pc DS, and one messed up speedo :)

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      • #4
        Whoa!


        I went to clean the caliper bolts and low and behold they were dirty lol and I found some all-purpose lube too and it works really good. Except that when one went to come out, its sleeve didnt!!!!!! is this what might have caused the vibrations and stutterings of the breaks? What should I do? pull out the sleeve and put it back on the bolt? or buy a new one? how much are they?

        Thank you

        :mad:
        RedLineVSix <br />95 Patriot Red Trans Am, M6, 3.42\'s,no rear tires<br />(SOLD!)97 Silver Camaro 3.8 Liter A4 3.42 + LSD, 1pc DS, and one messed up speedo :)

        Comment


        • #5
          try to get it out of the sleeve. once you get it out, clean it up using steele wool or something like that to break up the crap off it. then lube it up and put it back into the sleeve and make sure it moves freely. The pulsations were most likely cause by warped rotors and pad material, the stuck caliper pins cause brakes to drag causing pulling and premature wear.

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          • #6
            If you just changed the pads and didn't turn the rotors or didnt replace them then thats what your vibration is [img]smile.gif[/img] As far as it pulling to one side, you might want to try bleeding your brakes again, could have uneven pressuer and one side could be grabbing before the other
            97 3.8L V6 Firebird <br />Former Board Name: RedBirdV6<br />Best N/A 1/4: 14.53@94 <br />Best Nitrous 1/4: 12.82@106

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            • #7
              Alright, I did what you said to that caliper bolt, sweet mother of God I spent more than 12 hours in the garage, anyways it feels 10-09239423 times better, but is still hesitating a little..

              <blockquote>quote:</font><hr> The pulsations were most likely cause by warped rotors and pad material <hr></blockquote>

              how can I tell? The rotors look great, perfectly even, etc. and the pads seem good, flat, not rigid?


              <blockquote>quote:</font><hr> If you just changed the pads and didn't turn the rotors or didnt replace them then thats what your vibration is As far as it pulling to one side, you might want to try bleeding your brakes again, could have uneven pressuer and one side could be grabbing before the other <hr></blockquote>

              Turn my rotors? what do you mean? in the book (haynes) this is never explained? I never ended up bleeding my brakes though.
              RedLineVSix <br />95 Patriot Red Trans Am, M6, 3.42\'s,no rear tires<br />(SOLD!)97 Silver Camaro 3.8 Liter A4 3.42 + LSD, 1pc DS, and one messed up speedo :)

              Comment


              • #8
                <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by raxxus:
                Turn my rotors? what do you mean? in the book (haynes) this is never explained?<hr></blockquote>

                That's where a shop puts them on a lathe and cuts a little material off them, making them perfectly flat again. Just a few .0001 of an inch will give you vibration and pulsations.

                I've heard that taking an impact wrench to the lug nuts, especially torquing one down to full tight, before putting the other ones on, and not using a star pattern, will slightly warp a rotor.
                \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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                • #9
                  <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by raxxus:
                  I never ended up bleeding my brakes though.<hr></blockquote>

                  How did you change your brake pads without bleeding your brakes? You would have had to open the bleeder valve to spread the caliper apart to get it off and back over top the rotor
                  97 3.8L V6 Firebird <br />Former Board Name: RedBirdV6<br />Best N/A 1/4: 14.53@94 <br />Best Nitrous 1/4: 12.82@106

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                  • #10
                    I am a tech for a pontiac dealership, and trust me...you do not have to open any bleeder screws to do your brakes. When you compress the caliper piston, it pushes the brake fluid back into you master cylinder. If you had air in your system, you would have a spongy brake pedal, not pulling to one side. DO NOT bleed your brakes unless YOU have let air into the system. Otherwise you are just wasting your time. I do agree, you should always turn your rotors when you change pads, or replace them if they can not be turned without dropping the rotor below specs. Take them to an auto parts store, they will turn them for you. If you put new pads on a warped rotor, you will wear the new pads uneven. So, Redo your brakes and have the rotors turned. You pads should be ok if you didn't drive far. By cleaning your caliper bolts, and having your rotors turned, the brake pulling problem should go away

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                    • #11
                      Gmtech, I've been having problem with my brakes for a while. The rear ones sound as if the brake isn't releasing and I hear a squealing sound. I've taken it the my local pontiac dealer and two other shops and noone can find a problem.

                      I believe its because the calipers aren't sliding on bolts (like it was stated above), but my father's against the idea of putting any kind of lubricant anywhere near the brakes. Do you thinkg that taking out the bolt, cleaning it, and putting some grease on it will fix it? I've been thinking about doing this for a while, but I'm afraid he might be right.
                      ~Derrick <a href=\"http://www.appstate.edu/~do54457/\" target=\"_blank\"><i>My Webpage</i></a><br /><b>\'96 3.8L V6 M5 Firebird Y87</b> | <b>162.8 RWHP</b> / <b>196.7 RWTQ</b> <br /><b>•</b> SLP CAI <b>•</b> <a href=\"http://tech.firebirdv6.com/y87.html\" target=\"_blank\"><b>Y87</b> Package</a> - 3.23s <b>•</b> 180º thermo w/ fan switch <b>•</b> TB spacer from DEE<br />1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo 4x4

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                      • #12
                        <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Dojo2000:
                        Gmtech, I've been having problem with my brakes for a while. The rear ones sound as if the brake isn't releasing and I hear a squealing sound. I've taken it the my local pontiac dealer and two other shops and noone can find a problem.

                        I believe its because the calipers aren't sliding on bolts (like it was stated above), but my father's against the idea of putting any kind of lubricant anywhere near the brakes. Do you thinkg that taking out the bolt, cleaning it, and putting some grease on it will fix it? I've been thinking about doing this for a while, but I'm afraid he might be right.<hr></blockquote>

                        from my experience, my dad is wrong 9 times out of 10 all sorts of things. ;)

                        all moving parts must be lubed or they will eventually sieze. as long as you don't put the grease anywhere near the area where the pads will touch, you should be fine. the bolts have sleeves on them which then have grease on them and are covered by rubber boots. this is the way it comes from the factory. sometimes the rubber boots break or lose their seal and water/dirt gets in.

                        just follow the advice a few posts above and you should be fine.
                        Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.

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                        • #13
                          morbid is spot on the money. Moving parts do tend to lock up with heat and no lube. Use a Brake lube from your local auto parts store. That is made for high temp areas. This is the important part....Do Not get any of the lube on the brake pads!!! and Do Not get it on the rotors. Or you will have problems and your dad will be very upset..lol Also look at your parking brake, and make sure everything is releasing properly. If it is making noise...there is most likely something wrong somewhere. Just gotta look for it. Good luck, and keep me posted.

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