Coil-Over kit options?

[Arctc Wolf]

well, then there's always droping in a lighter dry cell in place of the heavier wet cell. I know there won't be much weight taken off, but it can add up here and there. lighter rims/tires, a-arms, coil-overs, k-member, fiberglass hood, baer eradispeed rotors, ect. all that would end up taking a nice chunk of weight off the nose. also, the rims/tires, rotors, a-arms, and coil-overs are all sprung weight, which helps even more. of course, all tht is just the front of the car, and we all know that there's more in the middle and rear areas as well.

[Wicked 3800 V6]

Yeah I've got trouble in the middle and rear areas too.
;)

[DenRS96]

Aren't the shocks, wheels, brakes, a-arms etc considered UNsprung weight and the engine, tranny, the body considered sprung weight? I remember reading an article that said removing a pound of unsprung weight is equivalent to removing about 10lbs of sprung weight. Also, relocating the battery to the back of the car will give you better weight distribution.

[Wicked 3800 V6]

Actually, I'm sporting pretty good weight distribution already, and expect things to come closer to F/R balance when I lighten the front. Of course, that was without me in it. Check my old post in the AX RR for details. I'm totally absolutely against relocating the battery, but only because you can get ten (10) lb batteries for $25.
-Rob

[Arctc Wolf]

I know I've heard that removing 1 lb. of rotating weight is like taking off 10 lbs. of static weight because of how weight increases from centrifugal force. The good thing about reducing weight off of rims, brakes, suspension, ect. is that the car responds better to driver and road inputs. Also when it comes to handling, reducing weight from the higher parts of the car help more than reducing weight that is closer to the ground. less weight up top will reduce body roll more because it will have less inertia up top.