Welcome to the FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com forums.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Stefan, you might want to see about getting this guy as a sponcer (I mentioned I was on this msg board and he seemed interested). It's UMI Performance I found them on Ebay, but they are a sponcer on LS1tech.com. They have great customer service and fast shipping. I am pleased with the product as well as the price. Pictures are below.
I have always heard that you should install subframe connectors on a drive-on rack. This keeps the chassis/frame as it would be while the car is on the ground and eliminate and possibility that the frame was stressed or flexed in an abnormal way.
It probably wouldn't make any difference, but just thought it was a rule of thumb.
They definitely look good though!
- Josh<br />If you have any questions or need installation pics/help, e-mail me: Viper98885@aol.com<br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/viper98885\" target=\"_blank\">\'93 Camaro Hardtop</a><br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/01lincolnls8\" target=\"_blank\">\'01 Lincoln LS8 Sport</a><br />\'00 Yamaha YZF-R6<br /><a href=\"http://www.ftpp.net\" target=\"_blank\">Full Throttle Performance</a>
Originally posted by viper98885: I have always heard that you should install subframe connectors on a drive-on rack. This keeps the chassis/frame as it would be while the car is on the ground and eliminate and possibility that the frame was stressed or flexed in an abnormal way.
I've heard and known friends that had problems with this. I hope it works out with you though.
-1999 Camaro Coupe 3800 Series II V6 A4 - SOLD<br />-1998 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP coupe
Looks good Patrick... if I were owner if the board I would look into them becoming a sponsor, however I don't know how sponsor driven this board is.
About the lift.... I do not see how it matters whether the suspension is loaded or not if you're welding it to the frame, the subframes will not move depending on the load on them. As long as the car is sitting level... it does not matter whether the suspension is loaded or not because it does not effect the position of the sub frames.
You can have problems created by doing it that way. You might not realize it, but your body does flex ALOT when lifted like that, hence the need for subframes in the first place. A local guy here with a big HP LS1 had HORRIBLE wheel hop and jarring issues when the exhaust shop did this the 1st time!
<a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!
Originally posted by OneQuickV6: You can have problems created by doing it that way. You might not realize it, but your body does flex ALOT when lifted like that, hence the need for subframes in the first place. A local guy here with a big HP LS1 had HORRIBLE wheel hop and jarring issues when the exhaust shop did this the 1st time!
I have not been able to take her above 90 yet. I'll play with her some and see if it still feels good above 90. But as of right now everything seems nice and stiff.
Originally posted by HBHRACING: The idea is to install them, then load the suspention to tighten the LCA bolts. This prevents prelaod and binding
I'm not sure I fully understand what you mean? Are you saying they should have been installed the way mine were or not?
they should be attached anyway that is assy but assembled loose. then when you are done you should lower the car on the ground or suport the rear with stands and then tighten the LCA bolts. The same goes for subframes. They should be installed with a load on the chassis.
Not much going on, replaced my Kenwood double din stereo with a Pioneer double din, the Kenwood had problems. Then replaced my power inverter for my reverse...
3 weeks ago
FORUM SPONSORS
Collapse
Working...
X
We process personal data about users of our site, through the use of cookies and other technologies, to deliver our services, personalize advertising, and to analyze site activity. We may share certain information about our users with our advertising and analytics partners. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Tweet
Comment