So, if you had my car how would you get it to hook?

[12secondv6]

Well, everyone always has suggestions on how I should get traction.... lets see the consensus.

My present mods:

Tires/ wheels-
Weld drag lite 15 X 3.5's for front
Camaro 16 X 8 salad shooters for rear (nitrous)
BF Radial tires 175 80 15's for front
Mickey Thompson ETstreet 26 X 10.5 X 16 (nitrous)
Firebird 16 X 8 5 stars for rear (N/A)
BF drag radial 255 50 16 (N/A)

Suspension-
Front:
Mild steel drag k member
Mild steel lower a arms
HAL 12 way adjustable shocks
Stock v6 springs

Rear:
rk sport tubular sub frame connectors
poly torque arm mount
poly trans mount
hotchkis boxed trailing arms
hotchkis pan hard rod
stock v6 springs
stock v6 shocks (90,000 miles and almost 1000 passes down the 1/4 so they are WORN out and soft!)

Weight relocation:
No A/C
No front bumper support
full tank of gas
No power steering (manual conversion)
No STB
Sparco Evo drivers seat
2 10 pound nitrous bottles located in place of rear passenger side seat


Yes, I STILL have the stock torque arm and that is on the to do list.

I think I will go with a "trac-bar."

I blew out another LSD...I will pick up another or a mini spool.

Suggestions???

[Wicked 3800 V6]

15" wheels, Competition Engineering Drag Shocks ($40 a side). Easy install on the drag shocks too!

Dunno what else to tell you dude, I know you just struggle to hook. Go LIGHTER in the front -- i dunno, drill some holes!

-Rob

[redbird00]

no rear sway bar? check out the bmr drag rear sway bar, and a adj. torque arm will be good... and maybe also try the bmr relocation brackets for the lca's.

merlin

[Jason McCallister]

Have you tried an airbag in the rear spring to offset the torque twist? ;)

[12secondv6]

I have a v8 rear sway bar
I've tried drag springs in the rear... spun MORE!
I've tried the air bag.... no luck

[Ian]

90/10's in the front for shocks.

battery to the trunk.

take the rear sway bar off.

dont spray off the line.

[Nachius]

He's had the battery in the trunk with problems.

Don't Spray off the line ?? [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] not gonna happen!


A lot of local guys are having VERY VERY good luck with Jegster torque arm. Thats my suggestion to start with! [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]


Also I may have overlooked it but what LCAs are you running?

[ December 01, 2003: Message edited by: Nachius ]</p>

[HAZ-Matt]

I thought I already told you how in a previous post. Fill up the trunk with sandbags.

[OneQuickV6]

Lower Control Arms is my first suggestion. I love my BMR's.

[12secondv6]

I have hal 12 way adjustable front shocks already, better than 90/10's

Battery in trunk... had too many starting issue's. Not possible with both bottle warmers

Remove rear sway bar would make me slower, i need the rear sway bar to control the rear

don't spray off the line... I don't :(

Fill trunk with sand bags... well, full tank of gas and spare parts/ tools in there also

Lower control arms..... um, I have hotchkis trailing arms... same thing

And you ALL thought it was easy [img]tongue.gif[/img]

[Arctc Wolf]

relocation brackets to load the tires more. maybe a 21mm rear swaybar instead of 19 mm, global west Trac-Link torque arm(even tho u already mentioned this), wider wheel/tire combo, perhaps 17x11 forged rear rims w/ 315-35's or 18x10 forged rims w/ 295-35's. 10.5 drag slicks equal out to 266 series tires, just .5 inches wider than the bfg's u have. the wider contact patches will get you more grip, even tho u lose some sidewall by going w/ a bigger wheel. w/ 17's u lose about .5 inches of sidewall and w/ 18's u lose 1" of sidewall.

Try a set of SSR C-1's from tirerack.com they're 18x9.5 and weight less than the stock 16x8's. i'd put a set of 285-35 tires on there and see how u do, or upgrade to 295-35's since they're just staying in the rear, and keep the wheels u have up front.

Try moving the nitrous bottles back into the rear compartment to get more of the weight distribution over the rear tires.

Have u looked at the auburn LSD's? I think they have clutch packs in them as well as the gear LSD so u get max power to both tires.

[Quijeeboe]

How about a tubular K-Member to swing a little of that weight distribution backward. I just noticed that BMR is selling them for the V6 and have been thinking about one for myself.

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodyChassis.htm

[DenRS96]

I would also get rid of the crappy 10 bolt that our cars came with and get a 12 bolt or 9 inch rear. You could look at Strange, Moser or Currie etc. I know they cost a lot, but I'm sure it cost a pretty penny to keep replacing the rear diff. Any way that will be the end of your rear end problems plus they bolt right up.

[HAZ-Matt]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 12secondv6:
Fill trunk with sand bags... well, full tank of gas and spare parts/ tools in there also<hr></blockquote>
Wow, I didn't know you had that much stuff back there already. The sandbags were supposed to be a funny idea anyway.

While I am throwing out bad suggestions...you could switch to 2.73's [img]smile.gif[/img]

I dunno what to tell you... maybe you need to get some of those tires that funny cars use in back.

[12secondv6]

No one reads what I ALREADY have??? [img]tongue.gif[/img]

I have the k member [img]tongue.gif[/img]

As for 18's or 19's.......um.... me thinks you are serious....... I am drag racing... not road racing.

Wider is not always better.

People hit 1.4's and 1.3's on a 10.5 inch wide tire.

People always downsize in rims, 17's to 16's or 16's to 15's, not plus size in rims for drag racing


Relocation brackets are for lowered cars... mine is not lowered.

Torque arm is on the to do list.