So, if you had my car how would you get it to hook? - FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com Message Board

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So, if you had my car how would you get it to hook?

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  • #16
    relocation brackets are also for non-lowered cars. I guess u should get wider or taller drag slicks.
    2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />More mods than I\'m allowed to list!

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    • #17
      Wrinkle walls. Lift those front tires man ;)
      ~Chris<br />1999 Hugger Orange Camaro<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/273836\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/273836</a> <br /><br />†…faith…hope

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      • #18
        <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by silvachris1:
        Wrinkle walls. Lift those front tires man ;) <hr></blockquote>

        This is what i was thinking as well, maybe you need to goto a 15" rear tire so you have more sidewall to flex and allow the tire to bite more before it actually rolls forward...

        To go with what i said above, bump your rear gear and tire size up together so you maintain the same driveline ratio but have a beefier tire.
        2002 Maple Red Firebird V6<br />3.73 w/ LSD | Pro-5.0 Shifter | Fan Switch | Tach w/ Shiftlite | Boost and Fuel Pressure Gauge | Bilstein Shocks & 1LE Springs | 1LE 32mm Bar & Poly Bushings, Poly Tranny Mount and Torque Arm Bushing | BMR LCA\'s | Catco 3\" Cat w/ Edlebrock 5509 Muffler, (all 3\") | Corbeau A4 Seats (Pair) |<p><a href=\"http://forums.fakeleg.com/\" target=\"_blank\">http://forums.fakeleg.com</a><br /><a href=\"http://cv6.fakeleg.com/\" target=\"_blank\">http://cv6.fakeleg.com</a> - Part & Repair Manuals and write-ups.

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        • #19
          <blockquote>quote:</font><hr> This is what i was thinking as well, maybe you need to goto a 15" rear tire so you have more sidewall to flex and allow the tire to bite more before it actually rolls forward...

          To go with what i said above, bump your rear gear and tire size up together so you maintain the same driveline ratio but have a beefier tire.
          <hr></blockquote>
          yep...u act like theres no way ur car will ever hook...theres LS1's w/WAY more torque hooking...
          <b>Black</b> 1998 Pontiac <i>Firebird</i> A-4 swap<br />271.4rwhp/259.4rwtq NA<br />13.30@102.44 <br /><a href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98\" target=\"_blank\">www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98</a>

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          • #20
            <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by WickEdSix9838:

            yep...u act like theres no way ur car will ever hook...theres LS1's w/WAY more torque hooking...
            <hr></blockquote>

            agree'ed, but it comes to a point in time where all options have been exhausted and new ideas need to be tried. Most LS1's that hook and hook good are using nice highend tires and have spent fairly large amounts of money in their suspension setups too. There are just so many posibilities to explain his problems, hell it could just be the car and that age has made her less performance worthy, who knows...
            2002 Maple Red Firebird V6<br />3.73 w/ LSD | Pro-5.0 Shifter | Fan Switch | Tach w/ Shiftlite | Boost and Fuel Pressure Gauge | Bilstein Shocks & 1LE Springs | 1LE 32mm Bar & Poly Bushings, Poly Tranny Mount and Torque Arm Bushing | BMR LCA\'s | Catco 3\" Cat w/ Edlebrock 5509 Muffler, (all 3\") | Corbeau A4 Seats (Pair) |<p><a href=\"http://forums.fakeleg.com/\" target=\"_blank\">http://forums.fakeleg.com</a><br /><a href=\"http://cv6.fakeleg.com/\" target=\"_blank\">http://cv6.fakeleg.com</a> - Part & Repair Manuals and write-ups.

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            • #21
              <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 12secondv6:
              Relocation brackets are for lowered cars... mine is not lowered.
              <hr></blockquote>

              Are you asking for our help? Or just posting for something to do? This is a really good suggestion and rather than ask and learn about it, you dismiss it? :(

              http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1290


              NON-LOWERED vehicles will also see a dramatic increase in traction by lowering the rearward angle of the LCA with our relocation brackets. The lower mount holes are placed in the arc pattern of the OEM length LCA. Therefore allowing a non-lowered F-Body to drop the rear LCA angle and NOT require a longer than OEM LCA. All geometry is correctly maintained. The anti-squat performance is providing most users with a full .10 or better 60' reduction!

              Isn't it worth a try for the money? $60 ;)
              1997 silver Camaro RS<br />|T-Type Powered|<br /><a href=\"http://www.kwfbody.com\" target=\"_blank\">Looking for a local F-Body club in K/W, Ontario, Canada?</a>

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              • #22
                Take out those stock rear junk springs and shocks. You want to squat, not bounce. Torque arm is another great idea. Big a55 rear sway bar, BMR? Personally, I don't think your heating those Mickey's enough. My 14 second rocket can easily spin improperly heated slicks. What are you setting your front Hals at? If you want to go really nuts, go to www.billingslyracing.biz and check out the Afco's. Those control compression, dampening and rebound. $1200 to solve all your suspension problems.
                <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.chitownracing.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.chitownracing.com</a>

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                • #23
                  I am with the guy who said JEGSTER for the torque arm. Boxed LCAs are good but I would look at Jegs "lift bars". I have heard nothing but good for this combo and that from both LS1 and mustang guys.

                  Outside of that.....You do know you don’t have to floor it off the line right? Maybe hold back a little....

                  Just how bad are you spinning?

                  Maybe some kind of electronic traction control something whatever?
                  I have made a lot of money in my life, most of which I spent on cars and women.<p>The rest I have blown.

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                  • #24
                    Relocation brackets.. Torque arm I love my edelbrock and it was only 150.00.. If your shocks are worn and soft then thats a plus.. How about poly urethane motor mounts?? No front sway bar.. drag springs for up front..
                    Jeff ..
                    1998 Firebird.. Built 3.8 with a 125 shot.. 370rwhp,415rwtq.. stock tune!! sold

                    2002 WS6 T/A.. Bolt ins..448rwhp
                    2009 G8 GT.. Vararam intake, GXP axleback
                    1998 Corvette.. Vararam intake, Ti axleback
                    http://www.fquick.com/slow-v6

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                    • #25
                      pull a big trailer :D

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                      • #26
                        12 Bolt rear end.

                        This will add a little weight to the back of the car and solve the breaking diffy's issue. You they could spray out of the hole and get some really interesting numbers... [img]graemlins/naughty.gif[/img]
                        Justin<br /><a href=\"http://www.bass482.com/firebird/index.html\" target=\"_blank\"> 2000 Black Firebird A4 Y87<br /></a>170.2rwhp/203rwtq (SAE Corrected)

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                        • #27
                          I'm still learning about suspentions but why can't you run a taller tire? Isn't a 26" tire about the same diameter as a 255/50/16? I would think that if you ran a 27" or even a 28" it would have more traction. The gear ratio would go down but you would be able to dead hook.
                          If I am wrong please let me know,
                          Stephen
                          1997 firebird<br />1987 4-Runner

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                          • #28
                            15" wheels and possibly et drags in the rear.
                            You need the extra sidewall and you could still run 26" tires.

                            Relocation brakets might help. Rear shocks would help a bit too. The spool or at least a working LSD would help TONS. I think that's been holding you back recently more then anything.

                            Chris
                            <b>2002 BSM TransAm WS.6 M6</b><br /><b>350rwhp, 365rwtq</b><br /><b>Stock:</b>13.455 @ 105.39 2.129 60\'<br /><b>Mod:</b>12.449 @ 113 1.832 60\'<br /><br /><b>2004 QSM GTO M6</b><br /><b>303rwhp, 329rwtq</b><br />Stock: 13.74 @ 102.14 2.1 60\'<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/silvertaws6\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/silvertaws6</a> <br /><br /><b>1984 Firebird S/E M5</b><br />2.8L

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                            • #29
                              Bird of Prey is right. When you take off and i mean the first like 5 or 10 ft do you have traction and then start to spin???? If thats the case then you might have too much weight in the back and your springs are causing your rear tires to come off the ground on the recoil. Try better shocks not springs or try taking weight out of the back. Ok ill give an example your springs are like a trampoline, the heavier something is that you drop on the trampoline (springs) the higher it goes. Just my suggestion but it might save you some time and money.
                              2001 Sunset Orange Camaro A4<br />Best times:<br />N/A--14.3<br />60\'--1.98<br />NOS 125--????

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