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  • New rotors--rear end vibrating!

    Hey guys, hopefully someone knows what my problem is. Last weekend I changed my brake rotors and pads. Broke them in, and everything seemed fine. Then this morning I'm on my way to school, and once I get up to about 70mph, the rear of the car starts vibrating. It's not really bad, but this did not happen before the brake work. What do you think I did wrong? Oh, and also, I rotated my tires. Changed front out with back, the back ones were low on tread.
    So anyway, any help would be highly appreciated.
    1998 M5 3.8 Mystic Teal Camaro<br />Flowmaster exhaust, Pacesetter headers, 3\" cat, 3\" S-pipe, whisper lid, ram air, Spec Stage 1 clutch, Poly Trans mount, Walbro 255LPH. Numerous appearance mods.<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2130533\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2130533</a>

  • #2
    did you leave a space between the pads and rotors?
    <b><a href=\"http://members.cox.net/95batmobile/d86f.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Sinister Six</a> </b><br /><br />1998 Sport Metallic Gold Firebird A4:<br /><br />Whisper Lid, 5% Limo Tint, 30th Anniversary Side Stripes, 3\" Borla Catback Dual Exhaust, Man Fan Switch, SLP CAI<br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/98goldbird\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/98goldbird</a>

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    • #3
      How is that done?
      1998 M5 3.8 Mystic Teal Camaro<br />Flowmaster exhaust, Pacesetter headers, 3\" cat, 3\" S-pipe, whisper lid, ram air, Spec Stage 1 clutch, Poly Trans mount, Walbro 255LPH. Numerous appearance mods.<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2130533\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2130533</a>

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      • #4
        when you install them, just dont tighten the all the way to where they are touching eachother. Someone correct me if I'm wrong on creating the space, but when you install the brake pads, they shouldn't be touching the rotors.
        <b><a href=\"http://members.cox.net/95batmobile/d86f.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Sinister Six</a> </b><br /><br />1998 Sport Metallic Gold Firebird A4:<br /><br />Whisper Lid, 5% Limo Tint, 30th Anniversary Side Stripes, 3\" Borla Catback Dual Exhaust, Man Fan Switch, SLP CAI<br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/98goldbird\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/98goldbird</a>

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        • #5
          What is it that I shouldn't overtighten? Do you mean that (9mm?) bolt that holds the caliper in place over the rotor? Or should I have retracted the brake pistons futher than I did?
          1998 M5 3.8 Mystic Teal Camaro<br />Flowmaster exhaust, Pacesetter headers, 3\" cat, 3\" S-pipe, whisper lid, ram air, Spec Stage 1 clutch, Poly Trans mount, Walbro 255LPH. Numerous appearance mods.<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2130533\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2130533</a>

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          • #6
            Sounds like your rotors are already warped. I've never heard of anybody leaving a space between the pads and rotors before. That just sounds plain crazy. When you step on the brakes, the piston(s) will just expand again anyway, forcing the pad against the rotor. Leaving a space will help get the assembly back in place, but you shouldn't go down the road before pumping the brakes a couple times to get the pads to contact the rotors. Leaving a space without pumping your brakes back out will just mess up your first stop. You wont have any brakes until the pad contacts the rotor. So you may hit the brakes and not stop. Bad idea.
            But yeah, it sounds like either the new rotors were already warped, you warped them in the break in cycle, the tires are out of ballance, or you have a broken belt in one of your tires.
            If the shaking is at 70, and you're not braking, then it's most likely the tires. I've seen vibrations get worse when rotating the tires. Have the ballance checked on them.
            ~Chris<br />1999 Hugger Orange Camaro<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/273836\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/273836</a> <br /><br />†…faith…hope

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            • #7
              No way are the rotors warped that fast. I followed a good break in procedure and I don't see how that could happen just a couple days later. I'm gonna try rotating the tires back again and see if that helps.
              Or else, I think overinflated tires will bounce around, right? Maybe I should check the pressures too.
              1998 M5 3.8 Mystic Teal Camaro<br />Flowmaster exhaust, Pacesetter headers, 3\" cat, 3\" S-pipe, whisper lid, ram air, Spec Stage 1 clutch, Poly Trans mount, Walbro 255LPH. Numerous appearance mods.<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2130533\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2130533</a>

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              • #8
                It's most likely just the ballance on the tires, rotate them again. I rotated the tires once, and they must have been slighly out of ballance, cause when I moved them to the back, they shook really bad. I just moved them back up front till I could get them reballanced. It cured the vibration.
                ~Chris<br />1999 Hugger Orange Camaro<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/273836\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/273836</a> <br /><br />†…faith…hope

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                • #9
                  I'm gonna throw this out there as an off chance possibility. Did you torque your wheels to 100 ft lbs in a star pattern? auctually I torque mine to 80 first then go back and bump the torque up to 100. may want to try that before you pay to have the tires rebalanced, but at the same time it sounds like a balance problem to me also.
                  -Brad
                  98 Firebird - gone from mod mode to keep it running and useable mode.
                  2000 V-Star Custom 1100
                  If all else fails use a bigger hammer!
                  :rock:

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by silvachris1:
                    Sounds like your rotors are already warped. I've never heard of anybody leaving a space between the pads and rotors before. That just sounds plain crazy. When you step on the brakes, the piston(s) will just expand again anyway, forcing the pad against the rotor. Leaving a space will help get the assembly back in place, but you shouldn't go down the road before pumping the brakes a couple times to get the pads to contact the rotors. Leaving a space without pumping your brakes back out will just mess up your first stop. You wont have any brakes until the pad contacts the rotor. So you may hit the brakes and not stop. Bad idea.
                    But yeah, it sounds like either the new rotors were already warped, you warped them in the break in cycle, the tires are out of ballance, or you have a broken belt in one of your tires.
                    If the shaking is at 70, and you're not braking, then it's most likely the tires. I've seen vibrations get worse when rotating the tires. Have the ballance checked on them.
                    ^^
                    What this man said.
                    If the car doesn't shake when you're not braking, you probably just needs to tires balanced. And you are NOT supposed to leave space between the pad and rotor. I don't know where goldbird got that from.
                    <b><a href=\"http://members.cox.net/95batmobile/d86f.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Sinister Six©</b></a><br /><a href=\"http://www.sounddomain.com/id/95batmobile\" target=\"_blank\">My \'95 Bird</a><br />I am not afraid of storms, for I am learning how to sail my ship.

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                    • #11
                      Black98v6, yes, I retorqued the lug nuts and the problem persisted.
                      I will get the wheels balanced as soon as possible.
                      1998 M5 3.8 Mystic Teal Camaro<br />Flowmaster exhaust, Pacesetter headers, 3\" cat, 3\" S-pipe, whisper lid, ram air, Spec Stage 1 clutch, Poly Trans mount, Walbro 255LPH. Numerous appearance mods.<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2130533\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2130533</a>

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