I want to do the t-top conversion to my 00 f-body but I am wonodering what differences the frame structure's hvae between the t-top and hard top models. What will I need to do to bring my frame integrity to acceptable limits to compromise for the loss of the hard top?
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Need info on structural integrity of hard top and t-top f-body's
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subframe connectors1999 Pewter Camaro M5<br />Y87 Performance Package, Sport Appearance Package, Diamond Clears<br />Factory SS Hood, Free Ram Air Mod, Whisper Lid w/ K&N Air Filter<br />CarSound Cat 94009, B&B Tri-Flo w/ Quad Tips<br />BMR SFC, BMR STB, KVR Blank Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads<br />Black Painted Calipers w/ CAMARO Decal, 245/50 Dunlop SP Sport 5000<br />20% Rear 35% Side Tint, Red Reflective Inlays, Invincishield<br /><b>Young girls avert their eyes, weak men tremble, Ford dealers faint.</b>
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Originally posted by Rob Bell:
Do factory t-top models have some kind of frame strengthing?94 Firebird 3.4 - RIP<br />97 Firebird 3.8 - In the works
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You don't HAVE to do anything, technically you would see more body flex with a T-Top since chassis wise is the same as a hard top, but subframes would completely take care of that.
Also if you're worried a STB is a cheap strengthening mod.
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I am pretty sure t-tops do have a reinforcing beam that runs in between the t-tops. I know because I flipped a Trans Am over with the t-tops off and it saved my life. You have to do some roof strengthening if you're going to add t-tops.1999 Y87 Camaro<br />Whisper Lid, SLP SS Takeoff Exhaust
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Originally posted by Silver 99 Camaro:
I am pretty sure t-tops do have a reinforcing beam that runs in between the t-tops. I know because I flipped a Trans Am over with the t-tops off and it saved my life. You have to do some roof strengthening if you're going to add t-tops.1997 Cayenne Red Metallic Camaro<br />3.8 V6 M5<br />SLP Cold Air Intake<br />Ceramic Coated Pacesetter Headers <br />Flowmaster American Thunder Catback<br />Full 3.42 & Disc Break Rear End Swap
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There is none... I looked into it.
The only "extra strength" is some flimsy metal on either side that is spot welded, not a solid bead, but spot welds.
All cars come from the factory as a t-top cars, down to the point, that the holes for the center trim piece and the t-top receivers are already in the car when you do the conversion.
They slap on 2 flimsy pieces of metal, then spot weld them in place, then have a solid "composite" roof, which is like posterboard.
I autocross, daily drive, drag race and I have notice no loss in structural integrity. I notice more of a difference when I took my strut tower brace. And my strut tower brace did so little on my 2000 I took it off and sold it.
You'll be fine, if you are worried about it, put on subframes and you WILL definitley be fine. Whistler, did the targa top conversion, and all he added were subframes, he cut out the middlw support, the only one that matters, and has done structural test and has seen no problems.-Eric<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/mustangeater82\" target=\"_blank\">2000 NBM V6 Camaro 5-speed</a> T-top <i>converted</i><br /><b>14.467@95.45mph</b> <i>$0 in mods</i><br /><i>The member formerly known as MustangEater8251</i>
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Keep in mind, the hard top is glued onto the car. It provides no support. The only other pieces are just above the door and they do not provide much suport (if any). Cut away and let us know how it turns out.
In reality, the t-tops or the hard top provide no more support then the convertable. Look at a car with the t-tops out. Now think about what the brace from the windshield to the back of the roof does. The answer is nothing. If it did, the windshield would break.2001 Firebird 3.8L V6 M5,<br />It once had....<br />NX Nitrous Wet Kit, ZZP X-P Hot Cam, <br />3.42 LSD, Pacesetter Headers, <br />36# Injectors, HP Tuners<br />322 RWHP, 379 RWTQ<br />13.596 @ 102.56 w/100 shot
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