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Does anyone have a 21mm or even 19 mm rear sway bar installed?
Does anyone have a 21mm or even 19 mm rear sway bar installed?
I'm still running the stock weeney 17 mm :(
I drag race (if you didn't know that already)
I have read here and there that a thicker rear sway bar could improve traction due to positively locating the rear.
SLP isn't that far from me.
I plan on driving down there to get the 21 mm rear sway bar and poly bushings.
Anyone done this?
Pro's, con's?
Anything?
Thanks
Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
I have 1LE bars and the rear is 21mm. The *** end of my car felt so much stiffer after installing that bar its amazing. I would imagine if positively locating the rear of the car would increase traction, this bar is the way to do it.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 12secondv6: I have read here and there that a thicker rear sway bar could improve traction due to positively locating the rear.<hr></blockquote>
No, not with sway bars. Sway bars do not locate anything, just transfer twisting energy from one wheel to the other to reduce body roll.
For drag racing you need a stiff LCA and PHR, but you will sacrifice street (ride) performance due to bind (see the Technical Database). I recommend 1LE for street/autocross, and Hotchkis for road/drag racing. Get the boxed LCA, not tubular (I think they are unsafe).
On high powered cars, isn't there a tendency to twist the frame on launch, where one side of the car will squat more than the other due to the torque/forces in drivetrain? Wouldn't that suggest that one side of the suspension would be loaded more than the other? A sway bar should help to equalize the loading between the sides right?
I understand the benefits of the aftermarket LCA and pandhard, but those won't help with the twist. Wouldn't the swaybar be benefitial too?
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by TheCardinal: Why are the tubular LCAs unsafe while the boxed LCAs are okay? (aside from the non 1LE thing)<hr></blockquote>
They are both in the same category. Good for drag racing.
I'm no expert on welds. They could be weaker, but they have never been broken before by anyone. There are 9 second cars using tubular and boxed arms.
Do you guys run driveshaft safety loops? I didn't think so. Isn't that unsafe? Many driveshafts were broken. Even my friend with a V6 broke one.
10 bolts are broken. Why aren't you guys using 12 bolts? You guys are very unsafe.
Torque arms break alot. Since not many run stock torque arms that actually have fast cars it's hard to compare the two. I know that many aftermarket ones are broken. You have to get a real extreme one to handle 10s. So if they use the same welds on the aftermarket ones then Robert has a point. But the force that that torque arm has to hold is much greater then the control arms. They just help the torque arm. So if a car can consistantly break torque arms you would think it could also break the control arms. Even with equal weld strenghts they see a much less load. Now I was talking about cars that do 1.3s, 1.4s in the 60, not V6 cars that do 2.0s, 2.1s. You guys are so paranoid about breaking stuff with a V6 while you have all these modified V8 guys running them every day.
I'm not agreeing or disagreeing with what was said previously, just recalling what was said from another thread. Perhaps Robert should give us his take on the subject. Since I'm more concerned with how my car handles on the street, I've got the 1LE LCA's ready to bolt on (along w/the PHR). Already have the 1LE sway bars in place.
2001 Onyx Black Camaro M5-Totalled<br />2005 Ford F150 XLT 5.4L<br /><br />\"To make peace, prepare for war.\"
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Backfire: Wouldn't the swaybar be benefitial too?<hr></blockquote>
You need to reinforce the chassis to prevent chassus twisting. To stop chassis twist there are three main things I read the first thing is a STB, then a roll cage, then subframe connectors(these least beneficial due that 4th gens have reinforced floor pans over the third gens.) Jsut what I read up about.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Fin: I'm not agreeing or disagreeing with what was said previously, just recalling what was said from another thread. Perhaps Robert should give us his take on the subject. Since I'm more concerned with how my car handles on the street, I've got the 1LE LCA's ready to bolt on (along w/the PHR). Already have the 1LE sway bars in place.<hr></blockquote>
Are you experiencing any wheel hop now? I hope you are actually. :D I'm very curious how those 1LE LCAs help with traction on launches. Don't forget to post about it. [img]smile.gif[/img]
I mentioned the twisting because that illustrates the loading difference between the sides. If the car twists to one side, the suspension on that side would be under a greater load. If you could balance that between the two sides using the large swaybar, wouldn't that improve traction/launch?
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Fin: I think I recall Robert saying in a previous thread that he didn't like tubular LCA's due to the welds on both ends.<hr></blockquote>
As a mechanical engineer and a Quality Manager for an OEM metal parts manufacturer, I have said over and over that I will never recommend welded tubular LCA, particually from any company that would not be allowed to supply parts to an OEM. Hotchkis are boxed.
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