does it sound like I need a front brake job? - FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com Message Board

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does it sound like I need a front brake job?

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  • does it sound like I need a front brake job?

    Have the car a few months. hearing a chirp, chirp, chirp when I let off the brakes. If i apply them, the sound goes away. It is somewhat intermittent, but hearing it more and more. I was told brakes were done "recently" and I can see significant meat on the front pads. I may have a tiny bit of pulsation when I apply, not really sure. I figure they may be glazed, or a mildly warped rotor. Am I on the right track, and If I am, should I turn em or replace Pads, rotor, wheel bearings? I think I will tackle this myself so labor shouldn't be an issue. Should I go with ceramic pads, or stock over the counter parts? Opinions? thanks!!

  • #2
    hard to say without hearing it, yaknow?

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    • #3
      From my experience and what I've read, stock GM rotors suck horribly. If you have plenty of pad left and aren't on the squeeler bar you shouldn't need to replace them. The squeeling is probably the pads are glazed. Mine do that all the time. The reason why your brakes pulsate if your not braking hard is most likely due to your rotors being warped. Now if it pulsates under hard braking, that's normal, it's your ABS doing its magic.

      It wouldn't hurt at all to upgrade rotors and pads. When I had good pads on my stock rotor, it made a huge difference in braking. Pads are easy to do, I haven't done my rotors, but they shouldn't be that hard either.

      BTW this should be in suspension ;)
      <a href=\"http://pics.projectpredator.com/thumbnails.php?album=16\" target=\"_blank\">2003 Zinc Yellow Mustang GT</a> 1 of 701<br />ET : TBD<br />But our shenanigans are cheeky and fun! Yeah, and his shenanigans are cruel and tragic. Which... makes t

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      • #4
        My car is doing the same thing right now. Im going to put some pads on it tomorrow, i'll let you know what happens.
        1995 3.4-Blackouts, 3 10\" MTX Subs, High flow cat, Faze voltmeter & air/fuel gauges Kenwood 800w amp,80\'s series Flowmaster, . ....more to come

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        • #5
          Stock rotors can work well when they're treated well. I autocross on the stock setup, heating up the brakes pretty severely then sitting idle in the grid for 5 minutes until the next run.

          It's all about treating them well though. I'll chock the wheels and leave the parking brake off, and let the car move forward a foot or two halfway through the grid wait to make sure they cool down evenly. No warping at all.
          Drivetrain Moderator - "There are no stupid questions, only stupid people!"

          2001 Pewter Firebird Y87, M5
          Intake, exhaust, just about every suspension part, alum flywheel & ds, Turn One p/s pump and cooler

          Go Sabres!

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          • #6
            Front pads & rotors. Fixed the problem
            1995 3.4-Blackouts, 3 10\" MTX Subs, High flow cat, Faze voltmeter & air/fuel gauges Kenwood 800w amp,80\'s series Flowmaster, . ....more to come

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            • #7
              I haven't done rotors before. Do the calipers use a standard gm tool to remove? Im assuming that it should just be,

              remove wheels, compress calipers, (drain off fluid from the master, compress calipers, remove pads, remove hub, castelenut, bearing, rotor, bearing and re-install all the stuff. Also, did you use anything to upgrade, or did you use off the shelf brake components?

              thanks!!

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              • #8
                No special tools are needed. All you need is a strong screwdriver, and a 3/8" allen wrench. And possibly a c-clamp. All you have to do is remove the calipers, remove rotors, put in new pads, and reassemble. If you need more detailed instructions, just ask. :cool:

                [ August 09, 2003: Message edited by: 95slowcar ]</p>
                1995 3.4-Blackouts, 3 10\" MTX Subs, High flow cat, Faze voltmeter & air/fuel gauges Kenwood 800w amp,80\'s series Flowmaster, . ....more to come

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                • #9
                  I am experiencing the same type of problem with the chirp.chirp sound and some pulsation when braking...but sound is coming from the rear of the car. I think I need new rear pads. Either way I am gonna take in and let them upgrade the pads.
                  Chris Reedy<br />1999 Camaro Black w/ Silver Stripes, M5. ATI Procharger w/ Intercooler<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/killingtime\" target=\"_blank\">CarDomain Site</a>

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                  • #10
                    go here install university look in the install documents there is a very very very good lesson on installing new pads and rotors
                    \"Hi my name is Ted and i am a postwhore.\"<br />GONE !!!!2001 midnight blue mettalic<br />camaro v6 GONE!!!<br /> <br />2002 White Ford SVT F-150 Lightning

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