Let's talk Brakes

[HAZ-Matt]

Alright some of you may remember my little incident at Just Brakes. Anyway, my pads suck. There is no other way to say it. The fronts dust like bastages, they don't stop well, they squeak, and on top of that I think the pedal feel has been much crappier since those clowns messed with my car.

So, I'm thinking about changing at least the front pads to ceramic compound pads. I did a search and it seems that people have had god luck with the ones from NAPA, the ceramix that I believe list for around $80. I may have to go over there and get some. I noticed that tirerack.com has a set of ceramic pads for $63... are the ones from NAPA significantly better than the ones on tirerack?

Onto the pedal feel. I hve a Haynes and it says htat the proper way to bleed the brake system is to start with the ABS modulator and then go to the wheels. However, I read in a few threads that some of you just skip the ABS modulator and start off with the right rear wheel. Is it ok to do this? I was thinking about getting rid of all the old fluid and going with DOT4 spec fluid, so this isn't just going ot be a regular bleed the brakes to get air out job. I think that most brake fluids are soluble in each other so it shouldn't matter if I don't get every single bit of DOT3 out. Lastly, do the standard autoparts places like NAPA or Autozone carry DOT4 fluid?

I was also considering replacing the rubber brake hoses. My car is more than three years old, but it only has around 23,500 miles on it. I was thinking that maybe my brake lines have decided to become more elastic and that could be causing some of my brake feel issues. What is a good guideline (not miles but time frame) to replace brake lines?

EDIT: The ceramic brakes from tirerack are "Satisfied Pro Ceramic Pads."

Thanks

[ August 07, 2003: Message edited by: HAZ-Matt ]</p>

[hockeyman]

I have an extra set of ceramic pads in my garage for when my pads need replacing. I got them from ebay for $32 shipped. They are Carquest brand.

-Marc

[BillyCobin]

I doubt your rubber brake lines are too stretched out after only 3 years.

I have the ceramix pads and like them. I bought them to stop the squealing, and they worked. This weekend my budies '99 Dodge Avenger's brakes were squealing, so we put a set of ceramix on it and they stopped. I am very satisfied with ceramix, but have no experience with other brands.

You are not supposed to empty the reservoir all the way if you decide to convert over to DOT 4. Just keep pouring in DOT 4 untill you have gone through a small bottle, then you will know it is 99% DOT 4. I accidently ran my reservoir dry while flushing my brakes, and got a lot of air trapped in the actuator. That was the only time I've had to bleed an abs actuator while doing a brake job. But if you are doing a full tune up of your brakes, it wouldn't be a bad idea to bleed it.

Most auto parts stores should have DOT 4, some volkswagens use DOT 4 so they usually carry it.

[StudlyCamaro]

ive only ridden in cars with ceramic pads , never driven one... but my EBC greenstuff pads seem to stop better than all the creamic guys' cars... and we are talking about LS1 guys with LS1 brakes and ceramic pads VS my 3.4L with ebc front pads, and older than hell rear drum brakes


the EBC greenstufs are kinda pricey though its like 96$ for a set for the front on tirerack.com

and ive been told that the redstuff pads arent great for street driving (they need to be hotter to really work well) but are great for autoXing and road racing. and the yellow stuff pads are apparently horrible on the street, cause you cant stop till they get HOT

so the EBC greenstuff pads get my vote, no noise, no dust, and great stopping power

[Bliggida]

Is it DOT4 or DOT5 that is a no-no on a street car.

Either, the reason is that these trap moisture more easily and require much more service, and more often (obviously)

If you are only changing your pads just stick with DOT3, more than enough for what you'd need, based on your equipment.
If you had hi-po 13" rotors slotted and drilled, with six piston calipers,
running unobtanium pads,
and you autocross or road race weekly, DOT4 or DOT5 may help you out some.

A flush may still be in order. And yes in that case I would skip the modulator and just bleed the brakes at the wheels.

Furthest to closest wheel from the master cylinder.
So right rear, left rear, right front, left front. In that order.

[camaro_speedemon]

DOT 4 should be fine for street use, it just has a higher boiling point than DOT3. You have to do something special with DOT5. I know that you can't mix DOT 5 with anything less. I think if you drain everything and put DOT 4 in, you should be fine...

[mcjoslyn]

Here is a link that will explain brake fluids.

Brake Fluid Analysis

Basically, DOT 3 or 4 is fine, avoid DOT 5.

[Blizzard96]

I just had the Raybestos QS ceramic pads and Brembo rotors...very nice. Low/no dusting...no noise.

The last month I've had the front rotors/pads replaced and the rear shoes and drum remachined...should I flush the fluid?

[Bliggida]

The rear brakes usually last twice as long as the fronts. So it will usually take two front brake jobs before the rears' will need attention.

But continute to inspect them regularly.

[V6Firebird94]

i kno theres prolly better brakes out there but as far as pads go if u dont want the squeeking and none or very lil brake dust us a Bosch Ceramic pad thats what i use and i dont get nedust or squeekin out of em and there nice if u dont wanna spend alot money