Front Brakes gone after having rotors resurfaced

[silvachris1]

So, I had my front rotors turned to get rid of the warp. It was shaking pretty bad. Anywho, guy installs everything back, and now I've got almost no front brakes. I checked everything. No air in the lines, blah blah. Anybody have any ideas?

[FunkZ]

How are the condition of the pads? Any worn down more than the others? Do the calipers move freely on the slide bolts? Brake hose twisted?

[KBeezy]

Stock GM brakes suck *** and can almost never be turned.

[1DangerousV6]

go drilled and slotted ;)

[Loochy88]

Originally posted by 1DangerousV6:
go drilled and slotted ;)

nah, that wont do anything. make sure you check all 6 bleed points again. theres gotta be air in there somewhere.

[silvachris1]

Ok.....
The bleeder valves weren't opened while he turned the rotors.
The Pads are in great condition.
Nothing on the pads or rotors to contaminate the surface.
Calipers slide appropriately.
Sensors and wires are in place.
The only thing I had done was the rotors resurfaced, and the front tires ballanced. After everything was reinstalled, I pressed the pedal several times to push the pistons out and compress the pads against the disk. The pedal went much further down than normal before it stopped. I hopped on the road after all that and braking distance was longer, and the braking ability was weaker. I came to a stop at a red light, and the ABS kicked on, and my low track light was glowing. So that's where I started listening. I noticed that I was locking the rear tires up, and the fronts weren't doing much, if anything. The dude that turned them said that it was real close to being out of spec. Could they just be too thin now to be working?
I decided to go ahead and bleed the brakes anyways, though they were never opened, and the lines were not loosened. Never heard any air escaping from the line. I watched the guy do all the work, and I didn't see anything that would have caused this problem. The only thing I can figure is the rotors. I just can't see any reson for the front brakes to crap out on me.

[FunkZ]

If they had to grind a lot of material off the rotors to even them out, and they're close to being too thin, you should probably just replace them. They'll overheat easier and be quick to warp again, not to mention cracking or allowing the piston to come out too far.

You may want to consider replacing the pads as well. If they had been constantly rubbing before with warped rotors they may have glazed or worn unevenly.

[silvachris1]

So....New Rotors.....
Here's the question:
Cross-Drilled/Slotted or Slotted or Stock?
I've been told that Cross-Drilled doesn't really do anything but cause cracks and that the real advantage comes from slotted.

So, my options are:
Cross-Drilled/Slotted. My car car is mostly a daily driver, but I love heading up the mountian side, and carving into those corners, so brakes are important to me.

I don't know anything about Slotted, but they just look stupid to me, How much of a differnce does slotted make over stock, and in comparison to drilled/slotted.

Or....Stock. They're are $35ish for the cheap ones at Advance Auto, and the medium ones are $70 each, and prices go all the way up to $150 each.

I'm looking at some on ebay that I'm not sure about yet. They are slotted, and cross drilled, but not all the way through (to help prevent cracking). I guess they're "dimpled" so you get the cross drilled look, since they aren't through holes. http://i3.ebayimg.com/01/i/02/c5/8e/bb_1_b.JPG

So... sugguestions?

[ November 08, 2004, 02:44 PM: Message edited by: silvachris1 ]