A guy in my local car club offered me his stock springs (90k) and newer shocks (7k miles) for free, and will pretty much do the install for me at the same time he puts his lowering springs/shocks on (man I love car clubs :D ) I figure I could use the new shocks, but would it be worth it doing the springs? They are kinda old (96 z28) but still less miles than mine. Or should I just stick with my stock ones? Oh and he said I may need new upper shock mounts, because his were rusted when he changed his, anyone know the part # for these? or know where I can get them? thanks.
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z28 shocks/springs
<a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/briansr\" target=\"_blank\">97 White Pontiac Firebird 3.8 A4</a><br />Mods- 2.75\" exhaust, Dynomax muffler, magnaflow cat, SLP CAI, Hypertech 160* thermo, Fan switch<br />Suspension-Kumho Ecsta 712\'s, 32mm/19mm sway bars<br /><br />Our Lady of Blessed Acceleration, don\'t fail us now. <br />-Elwood BluesTags: None
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Stick with your springs, but the shocks sound nice if you need new ones badly...2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
Details: www.1lev6.com
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Finally I'm registered. [img]smile.gif[/img]
Now like I said on the NWAFBA board, whaddya mean "kinda old"? :D They've just been seasoned over the years. [img]tongue.gif[/img] One 1/4 mile at a time and one corner at time. ;)
Anybody have any upper shock mount info for him? TRW makes them cheaper than GM but I only found those at Year One. They're not exactly inexpensive there.1996 Z28 M6 hard top, black <br />SLP CAI, Granatelli MAF, 1LE intake elbow, TPS airfoil, SLP Loudmouth, Global West SFCs, poly/spherical bearing LCAs and poly panhard rod, BMR strut tower brace, Spohn adjustable torque arm with rod end front mount and front driveshaft loop, 1LE trans mount, 1LE driveshaft, TA rear girdle, 1LE 32mm/21mm swaybars with Prothane bushings and endlinks, Performance Friction Z-rated brake pads, Earl\'s braided brake lines, 17\" SS wheels (ZR1 style) with BFG KDW, Hurst shifter and CAGS eliminator, LT4 knock module, TB bypass, 160 \'stat, SLP fan switch, BFG drag radials<p>13.94 at 100.4 with a slipping clutch and 92,000+ on the clock
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haha, glad to see you finally made it Korry. seasoned my @ss I've seen how you drive :D<a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/briansr\" target=\"_blank\">97 White Pontiac Firebird 3.8 A4</a><br />Mods- 2.75\" exhaust, Dynomax muffler, magnaflow cat, SLP CAI, Hypertech 160* thermo, Fan switch<br />Suspension-Kumho Ecsta 712\'s, 32mm/19mm sway bars<br /><br />Our Lady of Blessed Acceleration, don\'t fail us now. <br />-Elwood Blues
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the upper shocks mounts are rusted? Are you talking about the nut that screws on to the shock or what? Mine were rusted as hell when I replaced mine. All it is a nut and the little mount piece. I don't think you need to replace them. Getting the nut off of the old shock is the hard part putting it back on once it's off shouldn't be too bad.
I hope he has a good spring compressor and all the good stuff or else you're in for a big PITA. I changed my front shocks out and I did the first one myself with little spring compressors and 4 hours later I took the other side to pep boys.
...and I think you meen struts.
edit: I remember the mounts now. try going to a junk yard, I'm sure most wrecked camaros would still have that part.
[ April 25, 2003: Message edited by: Red V6 Raider ]</p>- JT3<br />1998 Red V6 Camaro Y87 Y3F - J.E.T. Chip Stage II - Clear Parking Lights - Removed Grill - K&N - Whisper Lid - !FRA MOD - MAF Screen Removed - Pro 5.0 - Pacesetter Headers - Magnaflow Catback - 32mm Front Swaybar - And A System(bump bump)
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Right. That nut can become so severely rusted that nothing short of an air chisel or torch will get it off. This essentially destroys the upper mount.
In my case I was expecting this and took it to a speed shop. They called me about mid morning and told me they were going to have to take more drastic measures to get the shock off (these were the original factory shocks with more than 86,000 miles on them). I told 'em do what you have to. They first tried an air chisel and all that did was pummel the piece to death. :eek: Next they broke out the torch.
I'm hoping that they were smart enough to throw a glob of grease on the nut or I may have a problem when I do my shocks this summer (this time I'm gonna do it [img]smile.gif[/img] ).
The junkyard might not be a bad idea if you could find a newer car. Anything a bit older will have the same problem.
Probably not going to mess with a compressor unless I find a quality rental. I'll just head over to Midas or someplace with old and new stuff in hand.
Oh and 3rd gens have struts. 4th gens don't. :D ;)
[ April 26, 2003: Message edited by: Chewbacca ]</p>1996 Z28 M6 hard top, black <br />SLP CAI, Granatelli MAF, 1LE intake elbow, TPS airfoil, SLP Loudmouth, Global West SFCs, poly/spherical bearing LCAs and poly panhard rod, BMR strut tower brace, Spohn adjustable torque arm with rod end front mount and front driveshaft loop, 1LE trans mount, 1LE driveshaft, TA rear girdle, 1LE 32mm/21mm swaybars with Prothane bushings and endlinks, Performance Friction Z-rated brake pads, Earl\'s braided brake lines, 17\" SS wheels (ZR1 style) with BFG KDW, Hurst shifter and CAGS eliminator, LT4 knock module, TB bypass, 160 \'stat, SLP fan switch, BFG drag radials<p>13.94 at 100.4 with a slipping clutch and 92,000+ on the clock
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