OK, this just started to happen, when i start to break, the stearing wheel starts shaking. I dont know what this is and its really starting to bug me out, a friend told me that it was the spindel bearings or sumthing and that the tires caused it. if this has happend to any of ur cars, plz tell me whats wrong with it, cuz i havent been in a crash or anything, it just started to do it and got worse over time. thanks..
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Is your whole car shaking or just the steering wheel? If it is your whole car then it is your brakes, but if its just the steering wheel then your friend might be right.
P.S. Whats wrong with you being up at 3:07 am? Haha so am I.1993 3.4 <br />Borla rear section<br />3 inch Catco High Flow Cat<br />2.75 inch I pipe (Picked one up from an LT-1 guy for a whole $10)<br />K&N Fipk <br />180° T-stat<br />Jet Stage II<br />10 Spoke Z28 Wheels<br />NGK\'s, Taylor Spiros<br />Mobil 1 synthetic<p>Email Viper2@chesnet.net for 4th gen replacement parts.
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Yes, that is most likely the problem. I found this on a F body review page.
Q: Why does my steering wheel vibrate when braking the car at high speeds?
A: Chances are your front rotors are warped. This is a very common problem on the F-bodies, especially the 1998s. Many people have had their rotors replaced under warranty, and some people have been able to get this fixed, some have resorted to putting on aftermarket "slotted" rotors.
Some tips you can follow to avoid warping your rotors:
Avoid hard stops. The harder you press on your brakes, the hotter the rotors will get, thus the chances of them warping increase.
When making hard or stops from high speeds, don't sit there at a stop with your foot on the brake, try putting the car in neutral and take your foot off the brake. Keeping the brake pad pressed down on very hot rotors can lead to warpage.
Make sure your lug nuts are evenly and properly torqued to manufacturer specifications. There are some people who believe that over-torquing the nuts can cause warped rotors.
Hope this helps.1993 3.4 <br />Borla rear section<br />3 inch Catco High Flow Cat<br />2.75 inch I pipe (Picked one up from an LT-1 guy for a whole $10)<br />K&N Fipk <br />180° T-stat<br />Jet Stage II<br />10 Spoke Z28 Wheels<br />NGK\'s, Taylor Spiros<br />Mobil 1 synthetic<p>Email Viper2@chesnet.net for 4th gen replacement parts.
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Well, if you're in phoenix, you'll notice as you come to a stop that streets are actually really ****ty. They use soft concrete and blacktop, the weight of a vehicle stopped at the stoplight puts divits in the road surface. These are so small that in my car I would only notice them as I slowed the car down at a stop light. I thought that there was something wrong with my car until I started noticing that this was happening more in Tempe and southern Scottsdale than anywhere else. That's when I noticed that you can actually see these bumps on the road surface. Check this first.
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proper term is lateral runout of the rotor. you may also get pedal pulsation which is caused by thickness variation (the two friction surfaces on the rotor are not exactly parallel).ASE Master, L1, X1, C1. Instructor in automotive systems. 99 3800 4L60E with a few mods and a greatful dead sticker on the back window.
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I'll be the repeater of the point...WARPED ROTORS! Don't bother turning them down...I did that and 1 month later they're pulsating again. Just save up for new ones.
Also if you want to confrim it's the rotors...just ask yourself this question...When I press on the brakes to stop does it feel like a really rough version of ABS? :D
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