Welcome to the FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com forums.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Thats a good deal on the parts!
Follow these steps after getting the car jacked up, on stands, and wheels pulled.
Removal:
-Pull the rear differentail cover off to drain the fluid.
-Pull the drum brake hardware off both sides along with the emergency brake cables.
-Pull the backing plates behind the drum brakes (4 bolts each side, but you won't be able to totally remove the plates until the axles are pulled)
-Remove the center pin from the gears in the rear. There is a bolt that is about 5/16" that needs to come off, then the pin will slide out.
-Push the axles inward towards the center of the car, and there will be a "C" clip on each axle that will fall out, then remove the axles and backing plates.
Installation:
-Bolt on the new disk brake backing plates.
-Install the axles on each side ***AND remember to re-install the "C" clips!
-Push the axles outwards to lock the "C" clips into place, and re-install the center pin through the gears, and bolt it in.
-Install the differential cover with new gasket, and fill with gear oil.
-Bolt up the caliper hardware to the backing plates along with the rotors.
-Install the new emergency brake cables.
-Bleed the system, and you're ready to go...
It sounds tougher than it actually is, but it's really kinda easy.
Hope this helps.
-Marc
[ May 07, 2003: Message edited by: hockeyman ]</p>
Forgot to mention the brake lines. The brake lines for the drum are different than the disk brake lines. You can either bend the lines to make them fit, or you can ask the guy you are buying the parts from if he can sell the brake lines to you. I recommend getting the original lines from the disk brake rear.
no, you won't need new axles unless yours are bent. If you suspect your axles being bent, then replace them. If you haven't destroyed any rear suspension components by sliding sideways into any fixed objects, then yor axles should be just fine.
28-spline is what the 93+ V6's and V8's have now, and they should fit perfectly.
Good luck, and keep us posted.
-Marc
[ May 07, 2003: Message edited by: hockeyman ]</p>
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by naptown: couldnt you just buy a z-28 rear end from a salvage yard?<hr></blockquote>
Yes, but the S/H charges are astronomical because of the weight if it isn't a local deal.
I found a guy within 20 miles from me that had the 1993+ Z28 and T/A rear's on sale, so I went to pick it up myself. I paid $150.00 complete including the e-brake cables. Couldn't pass up that deal!
Before I found that rear, I had a local scrap yard quote a 1993 Z28 rear for me at $600.00, and that didn't include the installation or e-brake cables. [img]graemlins/omg.gif[/img]
I can beat that one "Hockeyman".Up here in Newfoundland , Canada,The local salvage yard wants $1500.00 CDN for the rear out of a 1994 Z28.And thats with no brake hardware or cables!!
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by hockeyman: Thats a good deal on the parts!
Follow these steps after getting the car jacked up, on stands, and wheels pulled.
Removal:
-Pull the rear differentail cover off to drain the fluid.
-Pull the drum brake hardware off both sides along with the emergency brake cables.
-Pull the backing plates behind the drum brakes (4 bolts each side, but you won't be able to totally remove the plates until the axles are pulled)
-Remove the center pin from the gears in the rear. There is a bolt that is about 5/16" that needs to come off, then the pin will slide out.
-Push the axles inward towards the center of the car, and there will be a "C" clip on each axle that will fall out, then remove the axles and backing plates.
Installation:
-Bolt on the new disk brake backing plates.
-Install the axles on each side ***AND remember to re-install the "C" clips!
-Push the axles outwards to lock the "C" clips into place, and re-install the center pin through the gears, and bolt it in.
-Install the differential cover with new gasket, and fill with gear oil.
-Bolt up the caliper hardware to the backing plates along with the rotors.
-Install the new emergency brake cables.
-Bleed the system, and you're ready to go...
It sounds tougher than it actually is, but it's really kinda easy.
Hope this helps.
-Marc<hr></blockquote>
Since I have done this upgrade, I know that the most important item is not here.
After the caliper bracket is installed and the axle re-installed, you MUST measure the distance from the inside of the bracket to the face of the axle. This must be 2.70" to 2.74". If greater, you must pull the axle out and install shim GM p/n 26034667 behind the bracket.
You must also ensure that you get the caliper line brackets to support the brake lines. They are NOT on a drum brake car.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by FirebirdGT:
[QB]
Since I have done this upgrade, I know that the most important item is not here.
After the caliper bracket is installed and the axle re-installed, you MUST measure the distance from the inside of the bracket to the face of the axle. This must be 2.70" to 2.74". If greater, you must pull the axle out and install shim GM p/n 26034667 behind the bracket.
QB]<hr></blockquote>
I didn't know about the shims. I bought a complete rear, and didn't upgrade my stock drum rear. They sound like a PITA to measure, but the insurance of knowing you installed it right is worth it.
So my truck is finally getting some work done, after 17 years, Oil pressure sensor went out and it’s located under the lower intake manifold. Have to...
Hey guys. For starters I’ve always been a big car guy, I love all types of cars and can appreciate all types of engineering. I’ve always been a Chevy...
need help finding a balancer and a replacement balancer bolt. im at a lost after confusing myself researching.
3 weeks ago
FORUM SPONSORS
Collapse
Working...
X
We process personal data about users of our site, through the use of cookies and other technologies, to deliver our services, personalize advertising, and to analyze site activity. We may share certain information about our users with our advertising and analytics partners. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Comment