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Im going to do this myslef. The local auto parts store will turn the rotors for rather cheap. And Im going to get new pads and do some paint and decal work on the calipers.
Not to mention I will buy myself a torq wrench and make sure not to **** them up like the shop did.
I'd say turn the rotors until they're not at their minimum thickness anymore. If they're stock, though, I'd replace them with good ones (Autozone's $40 rotors are really good, I hear).
Torquing all the lugnuts to 100 ft/lbs eliminated all of my "warped rotor" symptoms. This theory was proven when I had new tires mounted and the goofballs used an impact wrench to tighten the lugnuts and all the "warped rotor" symptoms came back. The symptoms disappeared after I loosened/retighted all the lugs to 100 ft/lbs.
Stoptech has a good paper on warped rotors. They call it mostly a myth, caused by either uneven torque or uneven transfer of friction material to the disc (and state "The driver can feel a 0.0004" deposit or TV on the disc. 0.001" is annoying").
I didn't think that the rotor and pad break-in on installation was that important, but I'll do it with the new brakes I'm putting on in a couple weeks.
I autocrossed on my EBC Greenstuffs the day after I installed them on the stock rotors, beat them to powder autocrossing and road racing, and never had any problem with an uneven pedal.
Drivetrain Moderator - "There are no stupid questions, only stupid people!"
2001 Pewter Firebird Y87, M5
Intake, exhaust, just about every suspension part, alum flywheel & ds, Turn One p/s pump and cooler
Originally posted by Jason McCallister: Torquing all the lugnuts to 100 ft/lbs eliminated all of my "warped rotor" symptoms. This theory was proven when I had new tires mounted and the goofballs used an impact wrench to tighten the lugnuts and all the "warped rotor" symptoms came back. The symptoms disappeared after I loosened/retighted all the lugs to 100 ft/lbs.
Ok...I guess my next purchase is going to be a torq wrench.
I know the guy who put on my brakes used an impact gun to put it on. I regret not saying anything now.
Addendum to my "luck" with never having brake problems with the stock rotors:
1) I'm super anal about torque values, I think a torque wrench is about the most important tool to buy when working on a car. I torque just about _everything_. Hell, I've even torqued my oil drain plug until I learned about the right feel for it. Remember to use them properly - for the click types, smooth tightening motion until it clicks. If you stop to ratchet and it clicks right away when you apply force, back off and try again.
Even the Harbor Freight wrenches are good enough if you treat them well, you can get their 10-150 ft-lb torque wrench, on sale for $10! (4% accuracy seems to be plenty good for me).
2) While I abuse the brakes to no end on the course (ABS is my friend, I hit it often), I treat them like gold in the pits. I'll use them for the last time about 20 feet from my grid spot or pit lane, then just drift in to place. Push the clutch in and cut the engine just before I reach my spot, then gently use the clutch (car in first)to stop the car. Brake pads will stay retracted from the discs, allowing for more even cooling, and no prolonged contact between the hot disc and the pads.
Drivetrain Moderator - "There are no stupid questions, only stupid people!"
2001 Pewter Firebird Y87, M5
Intake, exhaust, just about every suspension part, alum flywheel & ds, Turn One p/s pump and cooler
Haven’t done anything on the Camaro, but put LEDs on my truck headlights . And my oil pressure sensor went out on the truck so going to fix that this...
Haven’t done anything on the Camaro, but put LEDs on my truck headlights . And my oil pressure sensor went out on the truck so going to fix that this...
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