I just threw on my new rotars and pads, is there a special way that i should brake them in or should i just take it easy on them for a while?
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Take it easy on them for about 200 miles - avoid hard stopping if you can help it. It's the method I used on my brakes and it worked pretty well.<a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd</a> <br />Red 1997 Pontiac Firebird 3.8L A4 w/ Y87
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Dont be like some idiots out there and test out the new brakes after putting them on by doing some Hard stops.:rolleyes:
New:04 GMC Sierra 1500 RCLB 4x4 5.3 GU80 3.73\'s.<br />Truck pics<br />Mods<br />Go fast: Panel K&N filter and soon SS truck catback.<br />Appearance: Stull Billet grill,Weston Chrome step tubes,Rhino Chrome hitch step,ARE painted fiberglass cover,Silver star lighting.
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Seasoning the pads/rotors by doing a series of 10 stops from 60mph tp 5mph with increasing deceleration is not a bad idea. You need to let the brakes cool between stops.
Your pads and rotors should have break in procedures with their instructions.
[ June 09, 2004, 07:57 PM: Message edited by: HAZ-Matt ]Matt<br />2000 Firebird<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums/index.php?\" target=\"_blank\">FullThrottleV6.com</a>
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Rotor seasoning procedures can be found by searching the net. There are a lot of recommendations and I would go with the companies specs if they have them.<a href=\"http://www.onid.orst.edu/~waltejam/\" target=\"_blank\">98 Bright Red Camaro</a><br />Too many mods to list....check my website
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by ssms5411Still trying to find oil leak on my Camaro, it’s a tough one. I think it is the oil pressure sender myself. Leaking when raving and going into boost....3 days ago
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