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Tell us about the 1LE stuff, man!!! How's it work?
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Wife and a dog, they both think they\'re Kujo.<br /> <br />1999 3.8 A4 Y87<br />Navy Blue Metallic<br />BFG G-Force KDWS 275/40/17s, <br />WS6 Wheels (17x9)<br />Phoenix Transmissions 2400 Stall Converter<br />FRA, Holley Powershot filter, Whisper Lid, Ported Throttlebody<br />2000 manifolds, Flowmaster, WS6 Tail Pipes, <br />MSD 8.5mm Wires, MSD Coils, Autolite plugs<br />Performance Cryogenics treated rotors<br />1LE Sway Bars and panhard rod, 1LE front springs w/SLP Bilsteins, stock rear springs w/ 3rd Gen Bilsteins, BMR STB, KBDD SFCs, 1LE rear lower control arms, 1LE front lower control arms<p>1968 Chevelle Malibu 327 TH350 -
This is the single best improvement one could make to the suspension of our cars - Ask Pewter if you want a SECOND opinion!
These things bolted up awesomely (so long that you have them turned the right way lol) and the 1LE rubber insulators fit great. I really appreciate LMPerformance for these, they were slow but they came and they included front and rear insulators.
I cannot get the car to sway - PERIOD. It just wont. I can turn it left, kick it right, take it around 20mph bends at 60, and this is on krap-*** Eagle GAs that just love to complain when pushed :eek:
The prothane endlinks I got from thunderracing I greased with marine grease - they dont squeak. The older endlinks were 13mm, the new ones are 9/16" (larger, thicker, stronger, bulletproof). The urethane bushings have *some* give, and fit FLUSH with the swaybars - serious benefit.
It took me and PewterChicken (thanks man!) about 2-3hours to complete it, 30minutes was spent trying to get the rear swaybar on after aligning it improperly. DOH! But it went on without a hitch the second time, endlinks snapped right up, and everything was tightened down.
Now, I went for a testride with the 32mm front - pretty good. Adding the 21mm rear bar made a WORLD of difference however, and I HIGHLY recommend you do both. I belive the increase in front bar size is so that you *can* safely increase the rear bar - which is in dire need to replacement from stock.
Also, after doing it, there really is no reason to pay BMR $270 for his bars - these things accomplish what they claim and far more. For $188.82, this has been the best imrpovement yet aside from the air lid, I HIGHLY recommend this!
With Rhino Ramps - its a VERY straightforward install. I only used the following tools
(2) 13mm wrenches
(1) 13mm socket
(2) 9/16" wrenches
(1) 9/16" socket
(1) Small mallet to help align the insulators
(1) Socket Wrench
(1pair) Rhino Ramps - 12" high.
It wouldve been nice to have a 13mm deepwell socket for the rear insulators, but simple box-end wrenches work just as well only slower. [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
Details: www.1lev6.com
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I’m new. I actually don’t own a Camaro or firebird. I do have a 2000 Camaro 3.8 fly by throttle and 4l60e. This is installed in a 1980 Triumph TR7...2 weeks ago -
Not much going on, replaced my Kenwood double din stereo with a Pioneer double din, the Kenwood had problems. Then replaced my power inverter for my reverse...3 weeks ago
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